Ok so thinking out my NA build I will be adding the RRM P&P'ed head, RRM IM, and RRM TB to my mods in my signature. While I am doing all of this I will also be upgrading the cam. I don't mind something that is going to give me a slightly rough idle. My friend had 272's in an MR2 and those were tolerable. I believe the lancers are 240/248's??? Might as well put a tree branch in there. Anyway, I heard rumors that RRM's cam is only a 248/248 which is not nearly aggressive enough to gain good power in my opinion. I would at least want a 256/256 and at the MOST 264/264. I have an SAFC to tune with and the RRM head I believe will have SLIGHTLY upgraded components. I know there is a lot of secrecy about the RRM cam but for me to buy it I have to know that it is at least a little bit aggressive. I know delta camshafts etc. offer custom regrinds but I would rather support a vendor. (accolade, RPW, RRM etc.) Opinions?

 

Well, from your post, I see that RRM isn't really an option.

First, I'd contact Delta and see what they're able to do for you. I know they aren't a vendor, but you really sound like you have a specific grind in mind.

RPW is going to be my second suggestion, simply because they have the multiple grinds that you mentioned.

For vendors on this site, RRM and RPW are your only choices. You seem to know this. Honestly, I'm not really sure what you wanted to get from this thread.

Also, moving to correct forum.

 

Couple thoughts,

IMHO the RRM cam is a generalized cam with no individual specs for mods and transmission, and may even be a mirage cam (manual) that they are having us swap in, which can give us decent gains, but they would be nominal, and not something desirable for the cost.

Mirage 2.0 is working on this 4g94 block and he has 11:1 pistons, p&p head, header (obx i think) and a custom crower cam (272 i think)

I am not sure what he has experienced with his idle and drivability, currently i believe he is untuned.

I think you should grab RPW's specs and work from those and get a custom regrind from crower to your desired specs.

For the money, NA is not worth it, especially when your going to be spending 2,000 dollars or so doing it. I could roll up next to you and pull ten cars on ya without even WOT'n and i am at 5 psi


Whatever you choose good luck! and keep us updated.


BTW: people can we please make sure to keep this civilized, the mods have a hard enough time as it is.

 

Agree with Kungfugirl, the RRM cam is way too generalized to be worth it IMO. If you want to go all out NA, you need an NA cam.

 

Alright, I will try to contact RPW to get their cam profiles. I am afraid 272's are a little too aggresive for me personally on an NA lancer and I think we would lose a little too much torque but I am not a camshaft expert so that is where I need your all's help.

 

i agree with black sheep i would go with delta first and see if they can make one you want in mind or go with rpw as they have a few aggressive ones too

 

Stage 2 Camshaft ECU Mods 256 256 0.375 0.375
Stage 2 Camshaft all models 258 262 0.375 0.375
Stage 3 Camshaft ECU Mods Street / Strip 266 256 0.375 0.430
Stage 3 Camshaft ECU Mods / Race only 275 270 0.361 0.361
Stage 4 Camshaft ECU Mods / Race only 266 266 0.430 0.430
Stage 4 Camshaft ECU Mods / Race only 275 266 0.413 0.375
Stage 5 Camshaft ECU Mods / Race only 275 270 0.413 0.413
Stage 5 Camshaft Race Only 284 284 0.360 0.360
Stage 6 Full Race only 300 300 0.360 0.360

i think this MAY help

 

what is this for? RPW's list?

 

Just remeber. If you go with big cam and you'll stay with stock compression, your cam won't give you the results that you are looking for. The cam needs air, has to breath. 2.5 exhaust, fuel supply, and planny of things that I already have.

Now I'm untuned since I added bigger cam. After the tune (hopefully this weekend) with emanage, I'll get 290 or 300 cam. I'll shave the head so I'll get more to 12.0:1 compression. Very soon. Car will be completelly stripped. In a month it won't be DD.

 

I don't need a 272 by any means. Probably the 256 will suit me well. With a FULL 2.25" exhaust (including DP and HFC) and full breathing mods plus SAFC that should give me pretty good gains shouldn't it?

 

Could someone explain to me these Cam numbers? Im unfamiliar.. Thanx.

I did a search and read that the APEXi SAFC doesnt work on our cars, however I read that alot of us have it..???
Help me out, is it something I'll benefit from buying (for an 03 Lancer?)

I was offered 900 for a Radius Valve-job, and P&P (including new gaskets etc.)
Is that worth it?

I honestly dont wanna mod too much to many times.. Im N/A for now, and want to change my Cam, but I will Turbo in the future.. What cam should I use in that case?
I dont want to have to buy Cams more than once.
Can I install a Mirage aftermarket or OEM cam?

 

Ok I'll try to answer both posts at the same time. As far as gains are concerned, as I said before, don't get your hopes up. Yes there will be gains but they are not going to be "throw you back in the seat" gains. The 4G94 is simply not a good NA motor. It doesn't rev high (the trademark of a good NA 4 cylinder) and it doesn' respond well to mods. I would suggest using something better than an S-AFC (which does work on base lancers to the best of my knowledge) possibly a Greddy Emanage. If you want a ported and polished head, get a ported and polished head, 900$ is a pretty good deal. Whether it's worth it is up to you. if you buy a cam for an NA application, it will not work for a turbo application. I think a mirage cam would work but I'm not 100% on that one.

 

From my understanding and only that, the lancer cam is 240 intake 248 exhaust. The Mirage cam (and POSSIBLY the RRM cam) is 248 intake and 248 exhaust. I am going to try to find a 256 or 264 if at all possible. Allow the engine to breath MUCH better.

 

I would say anyone buying an afc, spend a LIL more and get an emanage or even spend only 90$ and get openecu working.

 

SAFC works PERFECTLY fine. Not only can you monitor everything and make changes on the fly but for lancers there is no need to run anything more precise than a basic AFC. As long as you can add and subtract fuel you are good. More advanced cars use more advanced systems. TONS of evo's, sti's, etc. run AFC's. If they can use it to control their fuel, there is no reason why we can't use it to control ours.

Peace