First you need one of these. It is easily found on EBay one dude sells them outright for $99.99

 

Next you need to find the location of the old one in your car. So here that is. This is if you are standing on the passenger side of the car and looking right above the alternator.

 

Here is what you need. Cordless drill is not necessary but it make it easier to drive screws into the firewall.

Needed but not shown is 2FT of 1/4" fuel line and 4 hose clamps. 1FT of vacuum line and a vacuum T.

 

Ok we are ready to start. First let the pressure off on your fuel system like this.

 

Now we need to cut the 2FT of fuel line that you bought. Make one about 13in and the other 11in.

Attach the 11in to connection "B" on the FMU the 13" goes to "C"
Use hose clamps to keep them on.

Now you can mount the FMU here. Just screw it to the firwall.

 

Lets hook up the gas now.

 

From points "B" to "C" there was a short fueline with spring clips on it like this.

 

Remove the clips with your needlenose pliers and throw that line away. A minute amount of gas wil spill when you pull this line off.

Put hose clamps on the hoses from the FMU and hook hose B to point B and hose C to point C and tighten the clamps.

 

Next is the vacuume line. You need to tap this hose, running from the intake manifold to the stock regulator. Cut it in half and install the T

 

Install the hose you bought from the tee back to connection A on the FMU and you are done.

Put the gas cap on and turn on the key wait for the fuel pump to come up to pressure and start the car.

This is not really a necessary mod for a NA car but very necessary for turbo. It also happens to be my fix for getting the car more gas at idle so it doesnt stumble when you flip on the lights or whatever. Most of you do not notice the stumbling, but for those of us with the aftermarket engine mounts we really feel it. And with this mod the vibrations at low idle with accessories on is almost non-existent.

Good luck

 

do you think that fmu is as good as the RPW one that calls itself a Fuel Pressure Regulator. prolly a dumass question, i was just what to type in i guess on ebay to find one that fits the lancer.

 

they are pretty much universal, like he said, the one he has is for a honda, so just buy whatever you want, just make sure its a 12:1 i guess

 

BTW this happens to be listed on ebay as a honda/acura part. These things are universal fit so Im sure you could put it on a Kia too.

The only thing that isnt universal is the disc in it. I have come to the conclusion that 12:1 ratio is the way to go because of the beter to run rich than lean theory on combustion. When I get the turbo situation sorted out Im going to put a valve on the FMU vacuum line to bleed it off and lower it closer to 10:1

 

Since these aren't needed on N/A cars, will it still help with idle problems if used with a lower ratio, like 10:1 or 8:1 ?

 

The 12:1 10:1 8:1 ratios mean absolutely nothing without boost. NA means no boost. Choose what you want for the future. Ratios work like this. 1lb boost raises fuel 12Psi 1lb boost raises fuel 10Psi ect. there is a formula for figuring out what you need but the higher ratios can always be bled down, cant raise a lower ratio.

For the now all I am saying is it keeps your fuel pressure up at the injectors better than the stock one under normal (no boost)conditions and this keeps the idle smoother.