oil chart?
I am about to live in another country, and the weather is going to be very different from that of cali. I was wondering if there was a chart, or an equation i could use to help me choose the best type and weight of oil to use durring seasonal changes. thnx.
Okay, if you want it to last first switch to synthetic, Mobil 1 and castrol Syntec are good choices, make sure its changed every 3,000 miles, use the stock Mitsubishi oil filter(it has a check valve in it to hold oil up in the head for startup, and basically here's a rough chart: 0 degrees and under use 0W30 from 0 to 70 degrees use 5w30(universal and recomended) from 70 to 100 degrees use 10w30 and anything higher than 100 degrees use 15w50 (for race vehicals[very high temps]). all temps I used are in farenhieght. I Hope this Helps
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ght=oil+filter
There was a dissection of a Mitsu oil filter, and it was pretty low quality. Stick with a higher quality filter (even if it is a few extra dollars).
As far as the argument of synthetic versus fossil, i'm in still up in the air over it. neither have proven to be better than the other in my eyes, so choose an oil brand you like. For instance, i use havolin just because i've been using it for years and have never had a problem with it in the past.
There was a dissection of a Mitsu oil filter, and it was pretty low quality. Stick with a higher quality filter (even if it is a few extra dollars).
As far as the argument of synthetic versus fossil, i'm in still up in the air over it. neither have proven to be better than the other in my eyes, so choose an oil brand you like. For instance, i use havolin just because i've been using it for years and have never had a problem with it in the past.
I don't know if you read the dissection properly, but it specifically said the stock oil filter has a check valve in it to hold oil in the upper half of your motor. Startup is when the most wear happens. 2-3 seconds of dry friction really hurts. And as for fossils vs. synthetic 1-do you think your paying more than double for a reason? 2- do most racers use it for a reason? 3-BMW's come from the factory with synthetic. 4- I have built and blown enough motors to know that hands down synthetic is the way to go.
Originally posted by fkrzo
Okay, if you want it to last first switch to synthetic, Mobil 1 and castrol Syntec are good choices, ....
Okay, if you want it to last first switch to synthetic, Mobil 1 and castrol Syntec are good choices, ....
Check out the tread "Synthetic Oil = Bad" and check out Kontradictions ride. Not worth the chance.
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before I check let me tell you to try a little test for your own knowledge. take two of the same weight oils one synth and one not, dip one pointer finger in one and the other in the other , then rub your fingers together and tell me witch one you'd rather have LUBRICATING(thats oils purpose) your motor.
I think he was referring to my comment on checking that previous thread Hobie. btw - swwweeeeetttt ride you got there.
And my response is - I will go now to Pepboys, buy a quart of regular and a quart of synthetic so that I can pour a few drops on my fingers from each and then still use regular in my engine.
Thanks but I think I trust the people that tear into these engines on a regular basis.
And my response is - I will go now to Pepboys, buy a quart of regular and a quart of synthetic so that I can pour a few drops on my fingers from each and then still use regular in my engine.
Thanks but I think I trust the people that tear into these engines on a regular basis.
Last edited by Dr. Ray; Jul 18, 2003 at 02:15 PM.
I just read all 7 pages, still doesn't convince me one bit. Kontra either ran to much boost, ran low on oil(easy to get a leak were turbo oil line gos into oil pan), or just had a lemon. he also said he just changed over, the two oils don't mix. Then I read about people using 20W50, if you read the manual it says 5w30 for most climates, were do they live the equator? and then he said he was using Mobil 1 on his new motor, how do you say hipocrit?I don't mean to start any problems but don't say something and do the opposite.I have been building motors and racing for over 15 years and know that if you use a better lubricant it WILL move around your motor better. Wait ths is my first itchy*****y, maybee this motor needs flour added to the oil to keep it thick enough that the oil pump will pick it up. And if you read any sportcompact or european car magazine and **** at that any chevy magazine everyone will tell you to run synthetic if you have any kind of forced induction... Mobil 1 and Redline in all my cars, even the roaches.
Just also remember, I don't have a Lancer yet. That's coming in a month or so. I drive a beater Tempo that's been on it's last legs since it left the factory. So when it comes to oil qualities, I'm just trying to find a viscosity that won't leak all over my driveway. As for filters, I use Fram in mine because I like the nice grip end on it, not because I think it's high end. Of course, that'll change at my Lancer's first 3000 mi birthday.
When i referred to the post i uhh....posted, I mentioned it was low quality. Diesel found that the filter media was pretty low grade as was the check valve. I was just simply surmising the thread about that the mitsu filter wasn't worth the money. The replacement filter that was handed out was an MD325714 which was dissected. The stock filter that comes with fresh cars is an MD356000 (if i'm remembering correctly). But I digress, I'm not trying to prove a point, I'm just simply stating that I know there's a bypass on the Mitsu filter, I was just merely commenting on the low quality of the overall product.
When i referred to the post i uhh....posted, I mentioned it was low quality. Diesel found that the filter media was pretty low grade as was the check valve. I was just simply surmising the thread about that the mitsu filter wasn't worth the money. The replacement filter that was handed out was an MD325714 which was dissected. The stock filter that comes with fresh cars is an MD356000 (if i'm remembering correctly). But I digress, I'm not trying to prove a point, I'm just simply stating that I know there's a bypass on the Mitsu filter, I was just merely commenting on the low quality of the overall product.
i am really glad to see so many people talking about this topic. I too use mobile 1 fully synthetic and i have noticed that the engine runs quiter, starts less rough. but whether or not it runs cooler, or provides more fuel eficiency is in the air to me. I use the fullysythentic for the protect. my lancer already has 35,000 miles on it and it is an 02. i need to make it last.
I have read what was posted about the stock oil filter and that worries me. is the a better filter that you would recomend (one for racing and daily driving). thnx.
I have read what was posted about the stock oil filter and that worries me. is the a better filter that you would recomend (one for racing and daily driving). thnx.
Originally posted by fkrzo
Hobie sorry if i sound like a di@k, but I'm just stating my opinion. I see you use mobil 1 too. thats my choice. I guess to each his own. No disrespect meant to anyone.
Hobie sorry if i sound like a di@k, but I'm just stating my opinion. I see you use mobil 1 too. thats my choice. I guess to each his own. No disrespect meant to anyone.
hollywood, what kind did you end up going with? I'm assuming it's either one of 0w's or the 10w-30?
btw, thanks, doc ray.
Last edited by HobieKopek; Aug 6, 2003 at 07:04 AM.



