Which N/A Parts go together and not lose HP?
Which N/A Parts go together and not lose HP?
So i'm actually new to tuning since I got my '08. There are all these parts that are out, intakes, exhausts, headers, etc. but which can actually be combined to not lose hp and gain it.
For example, blacksheep stated, on a different thread
"Quick example - ambystom01 bought most of the 4G94 parts RRM made. When he dynoed his car, he got about 5hp over stock. When he called RRM to ask why, they claimed that his mod list wasn't planned well because the parts weren't working together. But they were mostly RRM parts."
For example, blacksheep stated, on a different thread
"Quick example - ambystom01 bought most of the 4G94 parts RRM made. When he dynoed his car, he got about 5hp over stock. When he called RRM to ask why, they claimed that his mod list wasn't planned well because the parts weren't working together. But they were mostly RRM parts."
you cant use one example, every car is different, although performance should be similar no two cars will produce identical performance down to the single point of tq or hp. Front the factory is as close as the cars will come, but even then, different lots, different firmware updates. performance will vary. When the car is in the hands of the owner, then performance gets further gummed up there, poor care and delayed or sub par maintance. And also things that are out side the control of the user, acts of god.
That said, Proformance gains can be had with exhausts and intakes, and headers and so on. But you gotta look at alot of dynos from others to make strong claims of consistant power.
In this case you want to stick with the pack, that way you know what parts have failed and what work. So far I havent seen any failures in RRMs line. But my recent line of testing has caused me to rethink the natural order of what parts to aquire first vs. those that can wait.
Getting back to answer your question. Losing HP and TQ generally doesnt happen. Its more of a question of where you are losing and gaining the power. I have made reference to LOW end Tq in alot of my posts. specifically for cars equipt with the CVT transmission. You dont want to lose power there since your car operates in that 1500 - 2500RPM zone. Gains or Loses there will directly affect your driving, enough so, that even your butt dyno will be able to tell you whats going on.
This car at least speaking from a CVT users point of view is a TQ engine, if you look at how Mitsu designed the TQ curve and how well the car takes to upgrades. If yo ulook at the dynos you will also notice that there is more TQ vs. HP in the car, contrary to their engine SAE test ratings.
That said, Proformance gains can be had with exhausts and intakes, and headers and so on. But you gotta look at alot of dynos from others to make strong claims of consistant power.
In this case you want to stick with the pack, that way you know what parts have failed and what work. So far I havent seen any failures in RRMs line. But my recent line of testing has caused me to rethink the natural order of what parts to aquire first vs. those that can wait.
Getting back to answer your question. Losing HP and TQ generally doesnt happen. Its more of a question of where you are losing and gaining the power. I have made reference to LOW end Tq in alot of my posts. specifically for cars equipt with the CVT transmission. You dont want to lose power there since your car operates in that 1500 - 2500RPM zone. Gains or Loses there will directly affect your driving, enough so, that even your butt dyno will be able to tell you whats going on.
This car at least speaking from a CVT users point of view is a TQ engine, if you look at how Mitsu designed the TQ curve and how well the car takes to upgrades. If yo ulook at the dynos you will also notice that there is more TQ vs. HP in the car, contrary to their engine SAE test ratings.
As said, it's pretty much impossible to tell right now. So few cars have done any tuning/testing. We have a small handful of dyno results, but nothing very helpful.
Something to consider, bolt-on parts theoretically only gain power but they may change a curve somewhat thus making that power more difficult to use. There is no reason to think that an intake will lose power or a ported intake mani will lose power or a header will lose power but you need to take into account things like backpressure and how the motor breathes. Unless someone spends a lot of money not only dynoing cars with different mods but ensuring that the results are accurate, there's no way to tell which parts are superior to others and which work best together in X situation. The problem I ran into was I trusted what people with no proof said and wasn't critical enough of the claims that are out there. As an obvious example, someone said I would gain something like 10% from an intake mani yet I didn't get even close to that with every mod from their catalog.
Something to consider, bolt-on parts theoretically only gain power but they may change a curve somewhat thus making that power more difficult to use. There is no reason to think that an intake will lose power or a ported intake mani will lose power or a header will lose power but you need to take into account things like backpressure and how the motor breathes. Unless someone spends a lot of money not only dynoing cars with different mods but ensuring that the results are accurate, there's no way to tell which parts are superior to others and which work best together in X situation. The problem I ran into was I trusted what people with no proof said and wasn't critical enough of the claims that are out there. As an obvious example, someone said I would gain something like 10% from an intake mani yet I didn't get even close to that with every mod from their catalog.
Sounds about right........


