Something to keep in mind, if you want insurance to cover your car in a modified state, you have to tell them about any modifications you've done. This will inevitably increase your rates. Also, don't make yourself out to be a martyr or a pioneer since if things go wrong, you'll soon find people abandoning you.

 

Hey, that's to be expected when you start modifying your car. I talked to my insurance rep about all of that because I was warned before hand. And well if things go wrong then lesson learned, that way others wont follow my mistakes. Im thinking of this as a trial and error sort of deal. I'm trying to do everything as right as i possible can. Although I do expect some hickups and road bumps, the benefits for the community out weigh my downfalls... Plus if all else faisl i still have my 240sx

 

I had the same attitude (that what I learnt/experienced helped the community) and I'll tell you this, the reception was less than pleasant at times.

 

Hahaha but you got 'reception' when you accomplished something only those who lurk talk about. Im not trying to prove anything to anyone just trying to see what i can do with my hobbie.

 

If by reception you mean people picked apart what I did and continue to deny the results than yes I got reception.

 

Yep there is nothing like it. But back on topic. AMS makes stronger stock evo x pistons and so does Buschr via JE ( see previous post for links). Im willing to try to get the work done if they can get back to me, with some questions i asked them. Whats your take on it? After i get the pistons in there what should i be looking at next form your experience?/

 

I would wait until you have everything gathered together (pistons, rods, any head work/parts, turbo kit) before you do anything. If you put lower compression pistons in now, you'll lose power. While you have the block apart, you might as well upgrade the rods just so you don't have to go back and do it in the future and for peace of mind. After that, you should be good to go turbo wise. If ARP head studs are available, buy them as well. Ideally you want to cover all the angles and overbuild the motor before you do anything. That way you know you have the best and if you build the motor to handle 300 hp, you can rest assured that it can handle 250 hp all day long.

 

Your experienced advice is zen like. Well reading all of that was the easy part, now finding all of that $#!* is the hard and frustrating part...

 

Lol I think you're the first person to say that.

 

Well ive located the pistons from various places so thats covered. JUN makes the rods but they are for a custom 2.3L 4B11. Im assuming that they wont fit with the 9:1 pistons, correct?

 

Not sure, you'd have to check clearances and such.

 

Simply put, the greater your bore and stroke, the more you're allowed to let air enter the combustion chamber, which in turn allows more fuel to enter as well, creating greater horsepower because of this greater compression (think of diesel engines, they have a high HP rating from the factory floor, yet have such a high compression ratio they don't need a spark). As for camshaft questions, check here....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camshaft

If anyone has a good dyno proven mod for this, let me know, I'm quite interested....




What would I know? I only work on 2000 HP Cat 3512 engines for a living...

 

I think we're gonna need to wait until all parts are out !
and wait for another time for a guinea pig to try them on our engine for us .
And since we're gonna loose the warrantly, I'm more like ambystom01 said, boost the engine for 400hp, then use less everyday, that way it will last.

and don't worry Drifting away, you're not alone that want to boost it up more ... And that don't want a ralli-something that is only automatic

 

200-250 hp is probably a good target, enough that it's be plenty fast for day to day driving without going overboard to the point that you'll need an LSD or anything like that.

 

Well you gotta start off some place. Thats a good range for a stepping stone, but im looking at the 300-350 as a stopping point.