So, I'm installing my e manage tonight and I'm a little worried about the octane that I'm running (actually I'm a little worried about a lot of things, but this is the one I'm threading about ).

If I do not change the timing, nor compression, nor go to forced induction (TC/SC) should I need to go to higher octane gas?

I'm currently running 87 (regular in WA) and haven't had any troubles so far. All I'll be doing is changing the fuel mapping, and the changes won't be very dramatic until I get the GReddy AFR meter. I think I should be ok, but somebody please keep me from bowing up my baby

 

Octane shouldnt matter because of all the reasons you already stated, but how do you plan on making a new fuel map without being able to read the AF ratio? Resist temptation untill you have a way to read it, wait for the AFR meter, guessing will get you nowhere. BTW I installed my AFC like a week before I got the AF gauge and it drove me bananna's looking at it and not being able to play but I help out and Im glad I did cuz its still hard to tune even with the AF meter.

 

Hee hee I put the e manage in the glove box, so I won't see it and be tempted to eff with it. I made a few 2-4% changes just to see how the thing indicated changes. Looks good, and is set back to "0" at all 5 points.
Next check I'm ordering the GReddy AFR with the wider band o2 sensor, and the support tool is on its way.

Thanks, dood

 

u know, theres a dyno shop up here with 5 runs for like $80 and they have a wideband thats how i ended up getting my safc tunned when i had it....

 

Interesting, where is this shop. I would love to get some real numbers for myself.

 

For about $100 above the cost of the GReddy AFR gauge w/o sensor (list price $340) you could get a true wideband (AEM UEGO) and an electric AFR gauge as well. It'd run you about $450 or thereabouts. I know you don't need to do this, but since other people may read the thread I figured I'd pose the option.

 

Greddy is too overpriced IMO what about this tho :
Zeitronix Digital Air/Fuel Ratio Meter $75

Unlike other meters with blinkey lights, you get an exact voltage reading in .01v resolution. On a LED style meter, the top LED is lit up at .9 to 1.0 volts. While perfectly accurate at reading the signal from the O2 sensor, the resolution is not fine enough for reliable full throttle tuning. You need to be able to see the difference between .88v (lean), .92v (nice on a 2G with 92 octane gas) and .96v (rich) at full throttle. Gauge mounting locations are limited enough in an Eclipse, being a small box, it can be mounted just about anywhere. Display screen is 1 " by 2". Box dimensions are 3" wide, 1.25" tall, 1" deep. Installation is an easy tapping of three wires at the ECU.
You can also send in your auto meter gauge and have it modded also. Both options seem cheaper to me.

 

I didn't think our o2 sensors were sensitive enough to give us readings that were useable for tuning at WOT.

That being said, the $75 meter has a full range of voltages from what to what? I'm somewhat familiar with the actual ratio (12.8:1 A/F is supposed to be about stoich on our cars--- I think) how would I find out what the voltages are supposed to be (or did you just give them to us in that last post? )

And the second option is. . . the autometer gage? They run about the same $$ for a more traditional looking gage, right? And you're saying that we can send them somewhere to be calibrated?


thanks dude!

 

Oh, and where might one procure a Zeitronix?

 

But of course everyones fav RRM. But to the eclipse world they are also known as RRE road race engineering. Here ihttp://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclgages.htms the link. So you know the quailty is good and is backed by the seller. Now these are for an eclipse but you just might want to pick thier brain on your lancer application. I'm just trying to help out. Here is teh link to the guys who modiy gauges such as autometer and others http://www.gadgetseller.com/gauges/ Like I said not too sure about YOUR application but it would make sense to me.
EDIT: It cost 25 bux for them to mod a guage. Digital AFR gauges are 67-89 bux. hey also sale wide band sensors for less than 100 bux.

 

My auto meter AFR guage was on 55 bux. It is the phantom series with white face. So really the modded gauge will be 80 bux not bad at all. 5 more than the one rrm is saling but doing the same thing in the same increments.

 

Called RRM since everybody at RRE is under a car I think I got Gabe and he said that the Zeitronix will work in a Lancer. Good news. The bad news is that it's more of a "tattletail" meter (his words) and it's isn't really useful as a tuning tool since the stock o2 is so narrow.
So, back to GReddy, if the AEM UEGO doesn't pan out.

 

Yeah but what about that other link I sent you for the company that does sale wide band sensors fro under a hundred (digital) they also mod the autometer gauges...not too bad....give them a call too doesnt hurt!

 

What we really need is to know how they modify the regular AF gauge so we can do it ourselves! Somebody must know.

 

Ok Mobius, didn't mean to dis I checked out that gage company after doing a little more research on the AEM UEGO. . . I'm pretty impressed- I'll pay $10 more for the Blue gadgetseller (the zeitronic is $75 and only comes in red)

So I've read that the 2002 VW GTI's fron oxygen sensor is a bosch LSU4 (the same sensor that the AEM relies on). Smells like another homegrown project

edit:
Well, the sensors maybe aren't as easy to come by as I'd been lead to believe; and they may need assembly at that price. some posters on the yahoo DIY-WB groups say that the company I was going to buy mine from are out.
Then there's the issue of the gage. The gadgetseller gage reads 0-2v. A wideband gives 0-5v output with stoich being approx 2.35v (0v=10:1, 5v=20:1 AFR) The zeitronix then will give me the needed range (and then some) but I'm concerned about being able to actually read the thing while driving
IF the AEM can datalog with the emanage, that'll be the way I'm going for availability of parts, simplicity of installation (I don't have to really figure anything out), ease of my understanding the information at a glance (no head math ) and the datalogging capabilities.

The key here is that I'm going WIDEBAND. The 2v meters are supposed to be great if you've kept the stock 02 sensors and want to know if something is wrong. I want to know everything

So far OT that the light from the original post will take years to catch up with this one