RRM test pipe question
got CEL from removing the first catalytic converter (RRM headers). O2-1 and O2-2 read the same, computer freaks and CEL kicks in.
bigjoshracing.com 's cel fix works like a charm (14.95 + ship)
bigjoshracing.com 's cel fix works like a charm (14.95 + ship)
Last edited by engineerboy; Sep 10, 2003 at 09:38 AM.
a custom exhaust could do the very things that a "name brand" does. all your paying for is the name. you can buy a apexi, greddy, thermal, etc.. and have the piping custom bent. the same amount of performance can be extracted. if done right and the right materials are used eg. the right steel. 
you have the header and no test pipe?
i do beleive no matter what the header sets it off.
you can go to auto zone and they will run a diagnostic test for free then tell you that your blah blah blah blah is off then just get them to reset it. of course it will come back on in about 200 miles!
i do beleive no matter what the header sets it off.
you can go to auto zone and they will run a diagnostic test for free then tell you that your blah blah blah blah is off then just get them to reset it. of course it will come back on in about 200 miles!
yea, i knwo the header does, but the test pipe says it wont. i dont know, i'll find out though. i need to get my car inspected this month, im hopin that if i jsut reset the battery they wont bother me.
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From: Tucson, Az & Long Beach, Ca
my car doesn't sound ricey! I have the RRM Axel Back Exhaust and the test pipe... i had the exhaust first. A year later i got the test pipe and it still has a nice deep smoothe sound but a little louder. If u think it might sound like a weed wacker, wrong! Sounds good a mean!
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From: Westchester, NY
Add a header and then you'll get a real ricey sound. I've got both on daily and notice a little performance. My CEL comes on after about 2000 miles and I just disconnect the battery for 5 minutes and its gone. I prefer to do it this way so if the CEL comes on for any other reason I might be able to notice it(come on quicker or within 10 minutes of reseting ECU).
Sorry, didn't make that claer. I have RRM headers and test pipe = CEL. Bigjoshracing CEL eliminator = no CEL. this eliminator only effects the signal from the second O2 sensor, so any other CELs would still come on.
On it's own, the test pipe won't throw a CEL because there's a primary cat in the stock manifold after the 1st O2, but before the 2nd. This pre-cat changes things enough that there's a different voltage read by the ECU from O2-1 and O2-2; equal voltage is the criteria for the ECU to throw an O2 snesor related CEL.
On it's own, the test pipe won't throw a CEL because there's a primary cat in the stock manifold after the 1st O2, but before the 2nd. This pre-cat changes things enough that there's a different voltage read by the ECU from O2-1 and O2-2; equal voltage is the criteria for the ECU to throw an O2 snesor related CEL.
IMO a CEL eliminator is a better option than pulling the battery everytime it comes on. First, the ECU takes some time to figure out what's going on, and eventually the CEL will come on faster anyway. Also, if there's a more legitimate CEL (my neighbor's Lancer threw a CEL because the Fuel Temp sensor went bad) the ECU will need some time to register that one as well, so you could be fooling yourself about a problem. Both CELs are legitimate because there IS something wrong with your exhaust system (as defined by the ECU parameters) but the O2 sensor CEL is one that we know how to eliminate.
On that note, I wired my CEL fix with male/female connectors and elec tape so I can remove it if decide to go back to the stock cat for any reason.
On that note, I wired my CEL fix with male/female connectors and elec tape so I can remove it if decide to go back to the stock cat for any reason.
Yeah, basically the O2 elim messes up the signal that's running from the O2 sensor to the ECU, so it looks different than the 1st O2 sensors output. That's sufficient for the ECU so it doesn't throw a CEL.
No special skills required. The wire cover on the O2 sensor is a little tougher than regular wire (some kind of thready plastic stuff). Like I said, I used M/F connectors and elec tape- I didn't want to risk soldering something that's 4" from my face when I'm upside down.
Read the instructions carefully, but they're pretty straightforward.
http://www.bigjoshracing.com
No special skills required. The wire cover on the O2 sensor is a little tougher than regular wire (some kind of thready plastic stuff). Like I said, I used M/F connectors and elec tape- I didn't want to risk soldering something that's 4" from my face when I'm upside down.
Read the instructions carefully, but they're pretty straightforward.
http://www.bigjoshracing.com
Last edited by engineerboy; Sep 11, 2003 at 02:27 PM.
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From: eclipseforum.com's O.T.
Last edited by GSpyderman; Sep 12, 2003 at 04:31 PM.
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From: eclipseforum.com's O.T.
Last edited by GSpyderman; Sep 12, 2003 at 04:32 PM.