whats the topic about i just got lust in the growing money from dad!!! LOL
first of all why did u get a GTS they have a lot of "goddys" that wont help a lot and at the same time the car wont be a gts at the end of all the stripping out!! I went with a ES just for the fact that all the goodies take space add weight and cost money but at the end all that cars "in their basic configuration" ARE THE SAME!!

 

How is it written on the title?

If it says "ME and DAD" then you are SOL

If it says "ME or DAD" then sell that bish and be prepared for the wrath lol

My pops helped me buy a car when I was in high school but I got the sales guy to put an "or" so that I could sell it if I wanted to

We still have the car 14 years later as an emergency car lol so it didn't really matter

 

Or just gut that bish and see what happens. Probably will want an LCD and a turbo kit too, wheels and tires, motor mounts, CF gear shift knob, 6 point harness, and all the other stuff that makes the car go faster. When you add up all the costs and the extreme drop in value from hacking up the car, you might be better off saving up your duckets for a little while and buying a second car as a track car. You can get a 1st gen Miata in good running order for what, $2k? That is probably what the CF rood would cost including install. Throw a cage in it, gut it, get some good pads, a CG lock and for 3 or 4k total you have a car that is a better track car then you will likely ever be as a driver (or at least for a long long time)

If you just want a "track worthy" car, make sure you have a stick, no patches on your tires, swap in a set of decent brake pads and fluid and a CG lock (I really like them in case you haven't noticed) and hit the track. Unless you have some serious track experience, the car will still be a better track car then you are a driver. And will be for a while.

Not trying to be a dick, but you really don't need a race car to do track days, I know a guy that does them in a bone stock 95ish civic with commuter tires on it and he has a blast.



If you meant drag racing, then you can probably buy a cheap fox mustang and use that, I dunno nothing bout that.

 

Have you done any track days yet?

If not, on your first day you probably won't even need the pads or anything, but do make sure you don't have any patches in your tires

 

Here is a good mod to cut some weight! Call AMS and get a Ralliart Mini Battery Kit, we installed those on many customers with GTS:









We are testing many other parts and working with other ECU and Piggyback options with more features than whats already available.

 

nice, yea i thought about the option of havign to jus get a old car and a miata was my #1 choice, funny u say that. i most likely will end up doing that, cuz im not gonna stab my dad in the back like before, i could forge his signature, ive done it before....i dont wanna strip the gts like mad cuz its still would have to be my DD, yet i dont ever have ne use for the back seats i always roll wit em down..when i stirpped this car before, they dont really way nething at all really, jus pieces of foam, the front passenger is the only signifcant one i would take out.

i havent had ne tracks days yet, ive been looking into it, i think miller just opened up or will be soon. ive had a nail go thru one of my tires that i had to get fixed, the outer edges of my tires are basically bald already. i drive pretty hard on a reg basis, my tires r the stock ones wit 15k on em since the end of september when i got the car. my rotors look kinda funky, they have small dimples all around, ive overheated my brakes/rotors 1 time a while ago on this car...should i get em resurfaced? ill post a pic today

 

Well, then what you should do is get your car in shape and do a track day just to make sure you really want to do it. You may also want to consider something like an E30 BMW, cheap reliable and a great track car

1) new tires, and probably get your alignment fixed. If they are wearing at the edges, you probably have bad alignment and/or did not rotate them. My tires on my evo only lasted about 6k miles and had the cords showing, but they wore even because of regular rotations and alignment. Firestone does a deal for $125 or so they will do lifetime alignments. I get mine checked before every even.

2) have your brakes checked out. I do my own brakes, but I don't know enough to trust someone else's life to my knowledge lol so see what they say. Make sure you have at LEAST 50% left on your pads and the rotors are within spec. I would also flush or at the least bleed your lines. FWIW I would not resurface rotors, if they are bad enough to need it then just get new ones. I have seen rotors snap, and trust me you do not want. Chances are rotors are not too much more expensive then resurfacing since you don't really need top of the line rotors for a dd/beginner track car.

Other than that, make sure it has fresh oil and filter and everything works.

There are several threads on here about what you need to bring, I would search and read them.

And like I said before, any modern car is going to be more than you need for your first couple track days. Just be careful, listen to what the instructors tell you, and have fun.

I personally do NASA track days, I think the instruction was good for the level 1 classes (you have an instructor in the car with you in level 1) but any trackday organization should be fine as long as it is one where they actually teach you how to do it. I would avoid the ones that are just lapping days until you know what you are doing.

 

ive had my tires rotated every oil change and i know my alignment is fine, ive had it done, i actually have to take it back in after i took it off the lot cuz it was ****ed...it might be alil off tho cuz i had the fronts recently balanced and still gettin some virabtion on freeway...either way its cuz i take corners hard and do alot of that on a reg basis..n yea i know ill need new tires...ss brake lines, n some good fluid. 1st step GET A JOB loool

 

personally carbon fiber is really overplayed now days..it seems like its all from the look..so going gf dosent mean your losing weight on the car..the SIBEON CF hood for the evo x weighs about 10 pounds or less than the stock evo x hood..same with trunks and everything ..which is why i think cf is startring to be pointless

 

isnt it sposed to be 50%? thats some ****..is it cuz they still use the same type of skeleton n jus wrap it in cf or is that the way everyone does it even high end

 

No, it depends entirely on the quality of CF used. There's a reason why race cars don't use Seibon products. Real CF goods (ie. the ones that dramatically reduce weight) are very very expensive.

 

yea the dry carbon right

 

take ur carpet out that will cut alot of weight

 

nah cuz when ur mom shaved her carpet she still weighed 300 lbs...i dont see how itll help me

 

I met the guy who did the CF tubs on the Ferrari F50. He had formerly done the CF for helicopter rotors for one of our military helicopters, and told me the resins and curing process they used at Ferrari were the same as for the rotors, which is why they hired him. That was some serious ****ing CF, I tell you what

Ricer CF is made in some kid's parent's garage with a hair dryer and some fiberglass resin