EGR Valve
Get an evo ecu hooked up, program it out, and plug up the holes. Thats about the only way to properly get around it. You could just rip it off and plug it but you'll throw cels and the car will run funny.
another way maybe with ecuflash,the problem is not plug up the holes. is the cels code p0401
You cant remove the egr via ecuflash for our lancer ecus. They havent defined the code in the ecu to facilitate removing the egr from our cars. I know there are a couple people that have just plugged the holes, but this is like a band-aid approach and is not good for our cars when the ecu is wanting the egr to work and it isnt.
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Evolving Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 205
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
So I've noticed the following things regarding my car:
It's difficult to start when warm, but not when cold.
The MIL light often comes on; I know its for the EGR Valve
The acceleration isn't as peppy as it rightfully should be.
It burns at least a quart if not more per 3,000 miles.
The idle is somewhat rough at stoplights, but not threatening.
Who thinks that this is pretty much all caused by the EGR Valve? I'm already planning on cleaning/replacing it, but I'm allowing anyone with experience to chime in and validate what I already believe to be true.
It's difficult to start when warm, but not when cold.
The MIL light often comes on; I know its for the EGR Valve
The acceleration isn't as peppy as it rightfully should be.
It burns at least a quart if not more per 3,000 miles.
The idle is somewhat rough at stoplights, but not threatening.
Who thinks that this is pretty much all caused by the EGR Valve? I'm already planning on cleaning/replacing it, but I'm allowing anyone with experience to chime in and validate what I already believe to be true.
So I've noticed the following things regarding my car:
It's difficult to start when warm, but not when cold.
The MIL light often comes on; I know its for the EGR Valve
The acceleration isn't as peppy as it rightfully should be.
It burns at least a quart if not more per 3,000 miles.
The idle is somewhat rough at stoplights, but not threatening.
Who thinks that this is pretty much all caused by the EGR Valve? I'm already planning on cleaning/replacing it, but I'm allowing anyone with experience to chime in and validate what I already believe to be true.
It's difficult to start when warm, but not when cold.
The MIL light often comes on; I know its for the EGR Valve
The acceleration isn't as peppy as it rightfully should be.
It burns at least a quart if not more per 3,000 miles.
The idle is somewhat rough at stoplights, but not threatening.
Who thinks that this is pretty much all caused by the EGR Valve? I'm already planning on cleaning/replacing it, but I'm allowing anyone with experience to chime in and validate what I already believe to be true.
it can be open when it isn't supposed to be, or it can be closed when it is supposed to be open. If it is open when it is not supposed to be open, at idle for instance, It will act like one monster vacuum leak and the engine will not idle or will idle really roughly. If it doesn't open when it is supposed to open you will probably experience a symptom of "pinging" or "knocking" since the combustion chamber temperature will be higher than normal.
A bad EGR valve could cause your car to experience hard starting, a rough idle, cruise control surges, popping noises from the exhaust, backfiring and sudden engine stops with cold weather or after deceleration.
it can be open when it isn't supposed to be, or it can be closed when it is supposed to be open. If it is open when it is not supposed to be open, at idle for instance, It will act like one monster vacuum leak and the engine will not idle or will idle really roughly. If it doesn't open when it is supposed to open you will probably experience a symptom of "pinging" or "knocking" since the combustion chamber temperature will be higher than normal.
it can be open when it isn't supposed to be, or it can be closed when it is supposed to be open. If it is open when it is not supposed to be open, at idle for instance, It will act like one monster vacuum leak and the engine will not idle or will idle really roughly. If it doesn't open when it is supposed to open you will probably experience a symptom of "pinging" or "knocking" since the combustion chamber temperature will be higher than normal.
How about him talking about it burning a quart though, every oil change....that's ****in crazy. I'd do a compression test, and see if you've got it leakin' anywhere on the engine. I had a 4 wheeler with some bad compression, and it ran just like you're talking about so i dunno...burning oil is bad though.
Evolving Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 205
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
168,500 miles right now. But I'm not seeing any BSOD (Blue Smoke of Death), nor am I seeing any visible leaks underneath the car. A compression test does seem in order, though. When it idles "rough", it is idling closer to 500 than say 1000. I'm pretty sure it's not a vacuum leak.
168,500 miles right now. But I'm not seeing any BSOD (Blue Smoke of Death), nor am I seeing any visible leaks underneath the car. A compression test does seem in order, though. When it idles "rough", it is idling closer to 500 than say 1000. I'm pretty sure it's not a vacuum leak.
Evolving Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 205
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
I've got an MTX so the figures you've provided to me do not apply, unfortunately. I did pull the code and it was indeed for the EGR valve and I need to get around to placing it. I get paid today, so I could probably get it done. Yay!!