EGR Valve
did you replace it? If the light went off it might be a code for "insufficiant flow or whatever the code is" It might come back on, i would just clean it out real good with brake cleaner, get all the carbon buildup off, if the light comes back on after, just replace it and you should be good!
I'm not sure how to remove it, actually. I'm sure the service manual tells me, but I tried briefly feeling around and couldn't feel anything. Any user advice??
Mitsu.kid.02, I think it IS for the insufficient flow.
Mitsu.kid.02, I think it IS for the insufficient flow.
To remove the EGR valve if i remember correctly there are two screws that hold it in possition. Take off the vac line going into the EGR valve first so you dont rip the line pulling it off. I think the screws are ether a 10mm or 12mm. Once its off clean it well with brake clean. Then if you have a vac tester test the EGR valve! You can do this by applying vacuum to the EGR valve, watch the gauge, making note of any vacuum loss. Check to make sure it can maintain atleast 20 in of vac. Tightening torque: 22 ±4 N.m (16 ±3 ft-lb)
Alright everyone, so here's an update. I finally got around to removing the EGR Valve assembly yesterday and there was quite a bit of carbon in there. I mean it wasn't totally horribly by any means, but it was very dirty. It's the fun that we get to enjoy by having cars.
I scraped and tapped as much carbon as I could out of the main chamber while ensuring that there wasn't anything obstructing the valves ability to operate. It wasn't hard to clean the actual portion that the device attaches to (intake??), but I felt that I wasn't able to clean it thoroughly enough to make a difference.
Reinstalled everything including a new EGR Valve Gasket ($1.65 at Auto Zone) and started it up and already I could tell a major difference. The MIL light was still there, so I took it in to get the code cleared and it hasn't come back since! The idle is much much more solid than it was prior to the cleaning, the acceleration is a little better, AND...I don't have to step on the gas to start it when it's warm.
I'll let you know if I get any boost in fuel economy which is something way on top of my list, right next to performance.
I scraped and tapped as much carbon as I could out of the main chamber while ensuring that there wasn't anything obstructing the valves ability to operate. It wasn't hard to clean the actual portion that the device attaches to (intake??), but I felt that I wasn't able to clean it thoroughly enough to make a difference.
Reinstalled everything including a new EGR Valve Gasket ($1.65 at Auto Zone) and started it up and already I could tell a major difference. The MIL light was still there, so I took it in to get the code cleared and it hasn't come back since! The idle is much much more solid than it was prior to the cleaning, the acceleration is a little better, AND...I don't have to step on the gas to start it when it's warm.
I'll let you know if I get any boost in fuel economy which is something way on top of my list, right next to performance.
Alright everyone, so here's an update. I finally got around to removing the EGR Valve assembly yesterday and there was quite a bit of carbon in there. I mean it wasn't totally horribly by any means, but it was very dirty. It's the fun that we get to enjoy by having cars.
I scraped and tapped as much carbon as I could out of the main chamber while ensuring that there wasn't anything obstructing the valves ability to operate. It wasn't hard to clean the actual portion that the device attaches to (intake??), but I felt that I wasn't able to clean it thoroughly enough to make a difference.
Reinstalled everything including a new EGR Valve Gasket ($1.65 at Auto Zone) and started it up and already I could tell a major difference. The MIL light was still there, so I took it in to get the code cleared and it hasn't come back since! The idle is much much more solid than it was prior to the cleaning, the acceleration is a little better, AND...I don't have to step on the gas to start it when it's warm.
I'll let you know if I get any boost in fuel economy which is something way on top of my list, right next to performance. 
I scraped and tapped as much carbon as I could out of the main chamber while ensuring that there wasn't anything obstructing the valves ability to operate. It wasn't hard to clean the actual portion that the device attaches to (intake??), but I felt that I wasn't able to clean it thoroughly enough to make a difference.
Reinstalled everything including a new EGR Valve Gasket ($1.65 at Auto Zone) and started it up and already I could tell a major difference. The MIL light was still there, so I took it in to get the code cleared and it hasn't come back since! The idle is much much more solid than it was prior to the cleaning, the acceleration is a little better, AND...I don't have to step on the gas to start it when it's warm.
I'll let you know if I get any boost in fuel economy which is something way on top of my list, right next to performance. 
Why thank you!! Hey, do you know if the EGR is attached to the intake manifold and how it can be better cleaned? I want to spray some type of solvent in there, but I'm unsure about it.
If u want to spray it down, remove the EGR valve from the car. There should be two 10 or 12 mm bolts holding it down. once its off spray it with brake clean and clean it up well, let it dry out and re-install. I have never actually cleaned out the port where the EGR valve is attached to, but if its not clogged up, if you clean the EGR valve it should run better
Well I've already removed and cleaned out the EGR port and the performance has increased. But I was just wondering what the EGR piece was actually connected to. It is still pretty dirty in there and I wanna go back and clean it. I'm just wondering what is safe to spray, or if its ok to spray any type of cleaning agent in there.
DO NOT SPRAY DIRECTLY INTO THE THROTTLE BODY.
Throttle-body cleaner. This should be available at your auto parts supply store or auto dealership parts department. Do not use carburetor cleaner. spray TBC onto a paper towel and wipe it down.
Throttle-body cleaner. This should be available at your auto parts supply store or auto dealership parts department. Do not use carburetor cleaner. spray TBC onto a paper towel and wipe it down.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
WTB[Northeast]: 2002 Lancer ES - EGR Valve with hardware
hotrod11686
For Sale - Engine / Drivetrain / Power
0
Jul 1, 2016 10:28 AM




