jwick76

iTrader: (1)

So okay, I've adjusted the BISS and found out the hard way that this doesn't work more than a temp fix if you're not using evoscan or ecuflash. SO, I adjusted it back to approximately where it was to begin with, and adjusted my idle values in drive with no ac. The idle is a bit higher, but not where it should be (unless my stock tack is off)...

This wasn't an issue until I put in the RRM motormounts and realized how rough my idle was (550-600 rpm in drive, 700-900 in neutral). Only an issue in drive, so I figured if I up the RPM a bit in drive I should smooth it out.

I've adjusted and flash the ecu to have an idle of 898 as the lowest it will go. It's only bumped it up to about 750-ish. Adjusting the BISS just throws a higher RPM than expected SES code. And I'm still getting a wobbling RPM when I let off the gas and coasting to a stop (about a 50rpm fluctuation).

My question is, do I need to adjust any of the ISCV step values? And I'm a bit lost as to what they mean anyway...I've added some screens to show what I've done with the idle values, and what I'm thinking for the ISC values, if I'm interpreting them correctly. Any educated opinions would be welcome! (and yes, I have cleaned the TB already).

Here are the idle values I changed:




And here is the current ISCV values, I'm thinking of changing the in-drive values (with ac off) to flatten out at 70 (last 3 values):

jwick76

iTrader: (1)

okay, so I found the following info:

IDLE

Desired ISCV initial step position with AC off Desired ISCV initial step position with AC off Desired ISCV initial step position with AC on - steps (AC on/off, drive or neutral) Steps work in conjunction with the target idle to achieve the end idle result. Steps of 10 (i.e. 106-116) seem to correspond to about 100rpm everything else being left the same.

Desired Idle RPM-Neutral Desired Idle RPM-Drive - (or target idle)- The Rpm that the ECU is trying to reach but has to modify things like the ISCV and fueling to reach until the car has reached operating temp. At this point the Car will idle (stock cammed anyway) at the desired rpm target fairly easily.

High Intake Air Temp ISCV Increase Desired Idle RPM with AC on High Intake Air Temp Idle Speed Target


I'm going to play around with this over the next few days and post results.

jwick76

iTrader: (1)

Okay, so from what I've noticed over the last few months of driving under different conditions is that the values for the steps have no effect that I can tell on the car performance at all. Which goes with another thread about how this part of ecuflash is "broken", but they have no solutions yet for the stock lancers....some amazingly dedicated members are figuring stuff out for the evos, that's about it.

I'm going to try evoscan later this week to see if this has a better result when adjusting the BISS.

I've noticed that when changing the idle values in ecuflash, the real-life result is 100-300rpm off from observed (program 1200, observe 900 actual). And when resetting the ecu, plan on the first 50 miles to be a little sketch while the ecu gets used to adjusting the iscv. Feels like you're about to stall at idle. I think this is also more dramatic since I put in the 4g93 cam, my idle def needs to be a bit higher than 450rpm....i don't like my voltage dropping to 12.2.

QuickShiftGSR

iTrader: (2)

how has is been for you? have you figured anything out that is worth mentioning?

jwick76

iTrader: (1)

YES. Evoscan will let you deactivate the actuators and adjust the BISS, so you don't screw up the system.

I've been able to adjust idle values with this successfully. I've got it idling about 900 rpm now, which does wonders for the shuddering introduced by the semi-solid rrm motormounts. However, I have IACV issues which make me overheat in the summer and fight the breaks...as the idle keeps creeping up. Apparently the temperature values only work in idle, not in drive.

SO, i plan on replacing the IACV. I've rigged up a throttle body cooler using a reservoir tank, an oil cooler, and a 12v hot water pump for now that work for the summer to keep the TB from creeping above 200F.

Make sure when you use Evoscan you go with an earlier version...the newer versions haven't worked for me with the 2003 Lancer. the actuator function doesn't even show up...all I can do is log. I think I'm using version 1.2 I'll have to check. I posted in in another thread...