Yea I have cleaned it but I'm worried that it is bad.

 

As for adjusting the TPS I tried your suggestion but the lowest value I could get was 60%. That's why I'm thinking even this new TPS is bad. Or something else is causing it to have a high reading.

 

Were the parts you replaced new, refurbished or used? New parts can be defective so that's a possibility.

Also check for damaged wires, bad ground connections and such. If you had to splice anything that could very well cause these issues.

 

All parts have been new. Back when I did the engine swap I did splice some wires. I will check them and see if they are grounding out or something.

 

thats crazy about your coolant temp, on cold start you should be down around 60 degree and work up to around 180 degree at running temp. is the factory gauge showing the temp that high? As far as checking the voltage, I doubt you need that special tool. The way i adjusted one on my mustang. i took a pin and put it thru the wire that has the signal and connected that to the positive lead. then i took the neg on the multimeter and connected it to a bare spot on the car. I left the connection plugged in. least doing it this way, you can see if the problem is at the TPS or if the ECU is getting the wrong info. When you were scanning the car and got 60% was that with the car running or just on auxiliary? If you're having multiple problems with data, maybe your ECU is ready to crap the bed

 

The car was running while getting the 60% reading. I kind of doubt the ecu is getting ready to die. I do think it is possible that the temp sensor could be bad. I'm also considering the possibility of the upstream O2 sensor being bad. This morning driving in to work I noticed that when the car would hesitate the O2 was showing very rich. But if it were rich but within .8 volts. So maybe the O2 is sending wrong info?

I'm also concerned about the fact that the car won't go into closed loop. Not sure what sensor is causing that. I wonder if it is time to connect my laptop to the ecu and see if I get more info or something torque won't tell me.

 

I just looked at my log. I'm at 13.3% tps at idle. o2 sensor reading at idle is .039, coolant temp starts at 93 degree and runs at 185 degree.

I know with the TPS for the 4g94, in the instructions, you can check the resistance of the sensor itself to see if the sensor is working properly.

 

So here is some interesting information. When I drove my car at lunch time the MAFS was reporting 8.12 at idle after about 5 minutes, coolant temp 109, TPS 65%, and timing advance 30. And this is kind of disturbing, my O2 sensors were not reporting any voltage...but still no CEL and no code saying the O2 is broken. Also Torque was showing change on the live data for the O2...

 

That's odd. You adjusted the TPS at the TB and the lowest value you could get was 60%? Did you do any wiring with the TPS when you did the 64 swap?

 

Yea I did have to use the connector from the donor car for the TPS. Later today I will trace the wire and see if there is a short. And since I got 3 tps now I will try each of them. Hopefully one of them works.

 

Seems like it may be the wiring. Did you solder and heat shrink or use crimp connectors?

 

How right you were RaCh3T8G! I went back over my splice and the instructions from darkmitsu's how to and found my problem. 2 of the wires were backwards! Now the car is finally idling properly after 3 years! Now I'm looking into some of the other sensors since it is now idling within proper range.

 

Happy i could help and glad the issue was resolved. You should clear the codes and make sure nothing comes back if you haven't already.

 

I cleared them and so far so good. However the MAFS code has come back as pending. Not sure why. The MAFS is brand new too.

 

So far I have only been able to get the TPS to 10.5%. I think if I adjust it one more time after some driving I can get it up to the 13%.