How heavy are the head and bottom end (with out the oil.pan) independently?

 

VERY...why do you ask? Why am I getting the feeling you're thinking about taking the engine out piece by piece, by hand?


just the engine block with the crank and everything still in it probably weighs close to 200 lbs. the head is probably another 50-60...

 

yes this is my plan, do you think this is too far fetched? i live at an apartment complex and im not sure what else to do? im so lost and overwhelmed. its just depressing to see it just sitting there. Im losing sleep over it.

 

You don't know anyone with a garage, or worst case a backyard or driveway? You'll want an engine hoist, no doubt about it...piece by piece would not only be excruciatingly difficult and time consuming, you would also risk damaging the new engine. If you know someone with a hoist and leveller, you could do it in a couple of days...if the new engine was ready to go with a fresh timing belt and everything, it should be fairly quick...but you'll want one person who knows what they're doing and one or two helpers...3 people is ideal...

 

I guess I will just have to take it slow and figure out a more rational way

 

After a bunch of days walking by my car and saying soon, I finally had time today and went out there to remove the oil pan. A new question has risen though. How much play in the connecting rod is to much play? Any and all thoughts are welcomed and appreciated

 

There should be none...

 

Sorry if it's an ignorant question, this is my first step into learning about the engines internals. So if I can physically move the connecting rod side to side Any amount is bad? From here can I tell whether or not my engine still has to come out? I've been reading around that you can sometimes get away with only replacing the bearings but is merely prolonging a fatal accident for the engine?

 

Ok, if the rod slides side to side on the crankshaft a tiny bit it should be ok, however if in that side to side motion there is any wobble that's not ok...if there is up and down play the the bearing is done.

So there is no loose rods? Rotate the crank shaft by hand to ensure there is not a tensile, or compressive load on the rods that's giving the illusion of being tight. Also check for evidence of rubbing, scoring or anything like that...you should be able to see the cylinder bore when the piston is at top dead center...

 

How would I go about turning it by hand?

 

After reading around online, in regards to my above ignorant question, it seems you have to remove the spark plugs and using the crankshaft bolt rotate it with a ratchet? So this correct? And if so. Any tips or tricks in respect to our engines specifically?

 

Only turn it clockwise...and the spark plug removal is only to make turning it easier because there is no compression.

 

At what increments should I stop turning it in order to get under the car and see if there any loose bearings.

 

can you not be under the car while you turn it? there are no intervals in the rotation that would be any different, the idea is to look and listen for anything rubbing, knocking, wobbling etc.

 

I don't know why I didn't snap and think to do it while under there. Just seeing the car sit there gets me anxious so I can't come at this correct like usually.