Mods would cruise control call for a different tps? I changed all of them except the brake booster lines

 

They all have the same TPS. Cruise control doesn't matter at all. I have never played with the TPS in this car yet. Maybe I'll bust out the multimeter this wkend and see how much variation I can actually get out of it. I know my old fox body mustang appeared to be a fixed TPS. But it actually could pivot a little bit. It didn't take much movement to change the volt output on it

 

When I mentioned about evoscan and the throttle screw. It would be the same principle as trying to adjust timing in an older car without unplugging the vacuum advance. Your IAC would try to adjust the idle with you moving that screw, giving you false readings. The only way to put in service mode is electronically. But with the way your car sounds. I would guess it's a TPS issue or a vacuum leak on the brake booster. If it were a IAC valve, it would idle surge with it just sitting there after you start it. Brakes wouldn't have an effect on it. My mustang was doing the exact same thing with a bad TPS. It would pulse at nearly every red light. Sometimes to the point of almost stalling. But it wasn't all the time either. That's why I recommend checking the voltage. Just to make sure it's in operating range.

 

Yes make sure it is a fixed tps.

If it is slotted you might need to adjust it according to live data or a meter. I know the evo goes out of idle mode if tps is over 16%

 

Tps isn't slotted and the brake booster isn't losing pressure no hissing and didn't get spongy when I turned the car off

 

Weird.

My car has some crazy idle issues, too. Drives fine, so I gave up lol

Good luck, dude. Keep us posted!

 

I do apologize. I posted the wrong procedure for the 03 lancer oz. This is the procedure, directly out of the manual. This I actually pulled up on my own 03 lancer oz FSM. I know that they are not slotted. As you can see in the picture, they are not slotted. However, there should be some play in the screws. But at a minimum. The voltage should still be checked. If it's in operating range, there's no issue. But if it's not, and you can't adjust it with the minimum movement. You must replace it.

 

..

 

Alright guys update- shop failed me but I did some brainstorming and figured it out. My IAC and the one I ordered where a literal hair in size different put my old one in and voila it started idled and ran fine. I'm so sad I wasted money for a diagnostic. I do have to say thank you all for your input, I couldn't be more grateful for the help and knowledge you have shown and shared.

 

Aftermarket IACVs seem to be a no go. They never seem to work right. None of them have looked like the one out of my car.