If you have a look thru the Mitsubishi service manual , it says in a round about fashion Do not open the throttle body If you do you will cause a death spiral of the solar system into the Sun and all life will cease to exist and you will be the reason why, so do not open this magical box of tricks , ever ,under any circumstances, and if it ever breaks , which is all your fault to begin with anyhow, then you need to come see and us and spend $1000 and buy another unit, oh, and did we mention there is no user serviceable parts inside these units? Well Something like that That's what it read like to me anyhow. So Pretty easy stuff Just finished doing up a 6B31 outlander V6 3L TB Take your time doing this You never want to rush this. I used a wire wheel These photos of the unit it is good enough to go back into service I think I will use a bit of Scotch Brite on it and a bit of TB cleaner as well just to give it a bit more Sheene.

http://imgur.com/a/GpTfhUJ http://imgur.com/a/v9sfgyK

And if you haven't figured it out yet Reassembly process is the reverse order of disassembly

Enjoy

PS

If your interested Final assembly and polish
http://imgur.com/a/Nneqiqo
All done
http://imgur.com/a/fzPKi1Z

 

Thanks for sharing and not destroying the solar system! TB looks as good as new
Do you notice any difference while driving?

 

There is a very noticeable difference with the 6B31 Installed be it CVT or manual 4b11.
Before you drop one in you will need to get the ECU rom modified for the bigger airflow. If you don't , it won't take long before a CEL is thrown.
The PCD of the bolt pattern is the same as your existing TB and your existing bolts will fit.
There isn't much room left inside the plastic manifold to open it up to suit the 6B31 however don't let that stop you doing this.
Also depending where you live and how cold it is , it's not a bad idea to bypass the radiator hoses to the throttle body. In Australia there is no need for the radiator hoses to be attached to the TB and you won't throw a CEL with it either.

 

bumblebee.4G69 I must point out that the paint around the edge of the throttle plate and in the throttle body is the factories way of sealing gaps at fully closed throttle. If you clean that off or remove the throttle plate, the sealing will be screwed and you may get idle problems. Also, if you remove the throttle plate, always put it back loosely, force the plate fully closed (against the spring tension holding it partly open) and make sure it aligned for minimum gaps while screwing it tight. To do this correctly, you need to back off the throttle stop screw first and re-adjust it afterwards so the throttle is only just held off fully seated. This prevents the throttle from sticking closed.

 

Thanks for the info :-)

I did check and make sure the butterfly when it is fully closed doest stick by putting screws in loosely, I learnt that some time ago when doing the 4g69 TB.
It now opens and closes fully with out sticking , unlike when I got it new, it was horrible.
Thanks for the info though
:-)

 

bumblebee.4G69 Info was for the general public who may not be aware of the finer details of doing such things....have to be careful with the "monkey see, monkey do" effect

 

A word of warning for others also

Be very careful of the butterfly (the round brass piece)

That is easily bent
Never
Never
Never
Press on it when the idle gear is in place
Once it's bent it's a challenge to straighten it

So don't do that
;-)