HELP!! Do I have an Exhaust leak?
Originally Posted by rhyzin
an exhaust leak could cause a clicking noise. my gf had a crack in her manifold once and made a clicking noise. more louder at startup since it was kinda small. not saying you have crack anywhere, but just probably an exhaust leak. did you bolt the header on in the correct bolt order?
Correct bolt order? I didn't know there was an order.
I wish RRM would take the time to include even some BASIC instructions/notes with their header... I mean, I'm sure even a qualified shop would like to have some notes because not every header is the same.
I wasn't really sure what to do with that damn support bracket that's down in the engine bay right about where the downpipe and header meet. It LOOKS like that tiny flange/tab welded onto the side of the header with the little nut welded on is supposed to line up with that braket..... well, it RESTS on that bracket, but the holes barely match up. Was I supposed to just take that damn braket out?
- Jason
before you decide to retighten the header nuts, you could just use the hose (stethoscope) mentioned above to check around the exhaust manifold/header gasket for leaks.
for tightening nut order, what you do is you tighten the upper middle one first. then you do the closest one to the right, then the left one on the other side. you keep alternating until you're done. kind of like spreading out from the middle. the small bolts should be tightened at 12 ft/lbs, and the two larger ones on the ends are 22 ft/lbs. if you don't have a torque wrench, you might as well just guess.
for tightening nut order, what you do is you tighten the upper middle one first. then you do the closest one to the right, then the left one on the other side. you keep alternating until you're done. kind of like spreading out from the middle. the small bolts should be tightened at 12 ft/lbs, and the two larger ones on the ends are 22 ft/lbs. if you don't have a torque wrench, you might as well just guess.
Yep, tighten from the inside out to apply outward pressure on the flange. If you did it from the outside in, you risk cracking somewhere. A friend of mine did this on his RSX. If the leak is there, you should notice a carbon track developing as well.
About how long would it take for a carbon track to become visable if there's an exhaust leak? I checked it last night, no carbon that I could see, but I am not sure if I have even given it enough time to build up if there's a leak.... or should it be visible right away?
- Jason
P.S. I really appreciate everyone who's posted and helped me out. Thanks a lot.
- Jason
P.S. I really appreciate everyone who's posted and helped me out. Thanks a lot.
I have the kamikazi headers on my car and one time all the bolts started to lossen up where the header and downpipe connect. The leaking gases kind of sounded like a BOV when i shifted. Up until they lossened all the way and fell out. That made the exhaust come straight out the headers and that ish was loud.
Well as far as the carbon tracks go, how long have you had them on there now? I would imagine about a week's worth of driving would indicate something. For the bolts loosening up at the collector (downpipe connection), try using some red loctite on the threads to help keeping them from backing out.
might be a valve tap (lifters)...from what they call it....i dunno, but when i used to hear this on customer cars....i'd put like 2-3 ounces of tranny fluid in the oil...make sure you got the right amount of oil as well....i guess the tranny fluid is a last resort...if it is a valve tap. and doing that...the valve tap goes away a bit. ive seen it for myself....
Just to let you know, I checked the torque values in the ESM....for the two bolt collector at the bottom, it is 37 +/- 7 ft. pounds, the smaller nuts on the header flange are 12 +/- 2 ft. pounds, and the two outer 14mm nuts are 22 +/- 2 ft. pounds. I guess just for gee whiz info in case anyone is interested.... For those that don't know, if you need inch pounds, multipy the values by 12.
Dookie. Thanks bro. I am gunna go buy new bolts, and redo the whole damn thing this weekend.
- Jason
P.S. when you say ..."for the two bolt collector at the bottom, it is 37 +/- 7 ft. pounds"... are you refering to the two large bolts that connect the bottom of the header to the downpipe?
- Jason
P.S. when you say ..."for the two bolt collector at the bottom, it is 37 +/- 7 ft. pounds"... are you refering to the two large bolts that connect the bottom of the header to the downpipe?
Last edited by LancerOZ; Sep 16, 2004 at 01:11 PM.
Since this is a fairly new thread, I'll post here- a search didn't yield much.
When I put my catalytic converter back on, I noticed that my gaskets were pretty much shot to hell. Is there an alternative to these gaskets? Can I use something like copper RTV? Where can I get something like copper gaskets? The parts stores near me are worthless, so please don't reference me to those guys again
When I put my catalytic converter back on, I noticed that my gaskets were pretty much shot to hell. Is there an alternative to these gaskets? Can I use something like copper RTV? Where can I get something like copper gaskets? The parts stores near me are worthless, so please don't reference me to those guys again
I bought some copper collector gaskets from Summit racing anf they havent leaked yet. (Keep fingers crossed) For the cat area though, the flanges should be true enough to just use some new OEM gaskets from the dealer...
yeah, I'd thought about contacting my nearest dealership- to find that three of them have closed dwn and the next nearest is over an hour's drive away! Yikes! But I'll check the net and see if there aren't any 2.25" gaskets to be had for a reasonable price
the copper rtv won't last long. tried it a couple times but they kept blowing. try and hunt down some metal/composite gaskets. you can probably get them from either RRM or RRE.


