I have 115,000 K on my car. I have driven every single kilometer very hard. (I don't beat it, just drive it hard). But I check my iol regulary, listen to my car. Change my oil every month, use Royal Purple Fluids (oil/gear lube) do routine maintiance (Check my plugs every 2 months). And I am yet to have any problems.

I am almost 100% your problem has nothing to do with your mods, the car, the dealer or anything and all to do with your own personal neglagance.

If it is a problem with the engine that was not avoidable Iam sure your dealership will gladly replace your engine under warrinty, regardless of your minor mods.

 

^yeah, if it's not negligence, it must've been a defect. i passed 100k miles last week, still on stock clutch, brake pads, etc. and i've done all sorts of weird sht to the engine. i don't baby her at all. sometimes i miss a few oil changes by 1-2k miles sometimes. still running good, besides a little clutch slip.

 

eclipse motor won't easily fit into the lancer's bay. i've seen complete engines with under 40k miles go for less than $800. Check out e-bay.

 

Roger that. Whoever you're getting advice from on a replacement motor is wrong. Move on.

I've only seen one blown Lancer engine and the car is behind our shop right now. Bottom line is oil starvation. Not covered under warranty, and especially hard to get covered if you show up with even those very basic mods.

 

I dont know how todo the thumbnails but i resized the pics with paint, but this 1st pic is the hole in the frount of the block right by the header.

This 2nd pic is taken from the top of the bay right next to the intake manifold. You can bairly see it but in the red circle is the golf ball size hole in the back of the block.

I know i had an oil leak but i dident think it was that bad it was barily losing any oil, although the next 2 pics are from when i had a turbo kit that i bought from RMR i mean RMR, it was there prototype that Mitsubishi wanted them to make. I only had it on for a little while. The only reason why i took it off becasue the turbine was loose and was leaking oil into and threw the intercooler to my intake and i dident want that. Also i had to put it on a dyno to tune it because it came with a AFR controller. But i hooked it up all myself and it wasent that hard, just finding the instructions for the AFR and the EVC (Electronic Valve Controller) I did have a problem when i had it hooked up and went for my last test run befor i took it off. The oil return line came off and i lost about 3qrt. of oil in about a sec. and i smoked really really bad. But that was 2 years ago and i never got around to putting it back on. I dont know if i really had somthing really wroung with my car then and dident realize it, and its been wareing ever sence then and just finaly broke. But the 1st pic is my oil pan where i drilled a hole for the oil return line.

This 2nd pic is where i had the oil coming into the turbo from and T. I just used the same hole as the oil pressure regulator and put the T in that hole the regulator on one side and the oil intake to the turbo on the other side fo the T. When i took the kit off i welded the hole in my oil pan and put some gasket maker over it for some extra seal. It still leaked though but barily, maybe went down a qrt. and month. how ever i left the T on there becasuse when u take off the oil pressure regulator you preatty much break the thing and you have to order a new one and put it on. So i dident mess with that again.

Another thing i wasent the only one working on the kit with me so if the ideas were a little strange how it was put together it was mostly my buddy. He knows more about cars thatn i do. Back to my problem i just changed the oil in my car that weekend on saturday and it happend on a monday. On sunday though i made sure the oil level was the same, so i know it couldent have went down that much in a day. If it was oil starvation that made my rode blow. Besides that i really havent did anything eles.

Does anyone know where i can get an motor for my car for cheep. I'll buy it and have this guy thats helping me find parts put it in. Any hlep would be great. I got 900$ back on my taxes and going to have to buy somthing. I dont want to spend all of it becasue i have to pay someone to put this motor in. I live in south cally by the way. So anyone that knows a place close by please help me out.

Another idea that i had lastnight was. Find a junk yard or 2 with my car in it and try to get the stocks parts back from there for cheapper than the dealership. Then install them on my car and then maybe i could take it to the dealership, do you think they would fix the problem for free then??

 

Hey i found an Engine on ebay tell me how it looks??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MakeTrack=true

 

Ahh yes now there is somthing eles i remeber, the check engine light has been on for a very ver very long time, but it only started after i put my RRM header and test pipe in. I read on here that the cause of the CEL was those two things. So i dident worrie about it.

 

Whoopsy daisy!

 

Anything eles anyone??

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW

theres another one

 

^^ agree, there is a company on there that normaly has our engine used for around 200-250. if you pick up at there fright station, it saves some cash. good luck.

 

see- that's exactly why I'm telling all these newbs that once you throw a CEL from headers or test pipe you MUST get a MIL fix of some sort. I guarantee you your car had been trying to tell you of an oil issue for thousands of miles...

anyway. if you go through eBay find engines from LKQ. I got mine for ridiculously cheap. Be prepared for $300 or more in shipping charges if you're unable to pick it up.

or go to car-part.com and buy one there. I just checked and the cheapest one they had that didn't indicate damage (and that had a price) was $328.00

 

Are you saying that the CEL for the headers caused the engine to blow? Or it just prevented him from seeing a new problem arrising? For oil problems, I thought the little oil container would come on. Not the CEL!?!

 

Let's clear up your first question- a small lightbulb in the gauge cluster is not going to cause anything blow up. It may have indicated there was a problem, but it certainly wasn't the cause of any problems.

the ECU can tell us about a lot of problems we're having, not just emissions problems. Thre are sensors all over the engine measuring countless parameters, oil level included. I'm not saying that there was, in fact, a CEL for an oil issue. But, if there was and a $15 part (or less if you're electronically inclined) could have alerted him to the problem, I think that's cheap insurance.

Besides, this issue sounds like owner negligence. He knew that he had a history of an oil leak. There's also a possibility that when he welded the hole in the pan closed he may have done something to block- partially or completely- the oil feed line to the engine. And he said the engine sounded funny and his first reaction was to bump it up past 4500RPM.... my first reaction would be to drive as slowly as possible home and figure out what the hell is going on.
I'm not trying to be hard on the guy, because I can appreciate how much this must suck. But he self installed a turbo kit admitting that he doesn't have a lot of knowledge about engines. He took the kit off because he couldn't tune it and he was having an oil leak through the turbine.... there are lots of little issues here that may have contributed to this larger problem.

Kudos to him though for just owning up to it and asking for assistance in finding a new block/engine.

 

This is the first I have heard about oil level being monitored by an OBDII system in our car. Do you happen to know where this sensor is?