10:1 Pistons review
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From: Canuckistan
10:1 Pistons review
Ok I finally got my car back from the mechanic after 2 months and a rather large sum of money. Since my stock pistons were completely fried I had a set of the Wiseco 10:1 pistons offered by Buschur put in with a 0.02 overbore. After breaking the car in a little bit (have another 500 km or so to do) I have to say the difference is stunning. In 4th I can stamp the gas at around 3000 RPM and just watch the speedometer shoot up. The engine sound has changed slightly as well, its deeper and a little louder. Overall I would definitely recommend those wanting to stay NA to consider getting a set of pistons as they really unleash the engine's potential.
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From: Canuckistan
I'm not running any type of tuning equipment yet, I'm hoping to get a good wideband AFR gauge, and possibly get a tune done using S-AFC, greddy emanage, or something along those lines. I believe you can still get the pistons but you have to go through Wiseco directly.
Brake in, on a car that's got a few thousand miles on it, starts as soon as the engine is warm: drive it like you stole it 
There's not better way to bed the rings for max compression, and since the drivetrain and suspension are all worn in, you don't have to worry about them (you do have to concern yourself with the drivetrain on a totally new car because those parts have to bed in as well, and that's why manufacturer's tell you to take it easy)
Glad you like them, I'm considering doing pistons next spring
There's not better way to bed the rings for max compression, and since the drivetrain and suspension are all worn in, you don't have to worry about them (you do have to concern yourself with the drivetrain on a totally new car because those parts have to bed in as well, and that's why manufacturer's tell you to take it easy)Glad you like them, I'm considering doing pistons next spring
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Originally Posted by Alchemist
Brake in, on a car that's got a few thousand miles on it, starts as soon as the engine is warm: drive it like you stole it There's not better way to bed the rings for max compression,
There's not better way to bed the rings for max compression,
The break in debate is endless. Search the web there are numerous examples of the benefits of driving the f*ck out of it immeadiately. You only have the first few miles to do it too, after that you are wasting your time.
--- Disclaimer--- The following is for informational/discussion purposes only. I am not recommending you follow ANY of the recommendations outlined below. Should you follow anyone's advice, whether it be in line with the manufactrer's advice or against it, I take no responsibility for YOUR actions. ---end disclaimer---
Ok, here's my take, in a nutshell. Back in the day making the cylinder walls smooth as glass wasn't important (from an American car factory let's-save-a-couple-bucks point of view) or wasn't available to the home mechanic. This' started to change in the 80's as DIY car repair became more mainstream. When the cylinder walls were left rough, then yes, you HAD to break the engine in gently and basically you were using your piston rings to wear away at the rough spots. They figured that this took about 2000 miles, and a couple oil changes in there, or whatever, and then after that you'd smoothed things out enough that you could go all out without worrying about the internals.
This has been the dominate method on rebuilds (slow easy break in) because it's how our dads had to do it.
Not so long ago auto manufacturers learned to make the cylinder walls smooth. This not only reduced wear on the rings and the walls but it reduces the amount of microscopic metal that's being pumped through your engine so all-in-all it makes for a longer lasting, better running engine.
So, in theory (the theory does hold up) is that if you've rebuilt an engine (i.e. installed pistons) you can get the engine warm and then drive it like you're qualifying for 30-50 miles, but not on the freeway; you're trying to get the rings to expand and contract as they normally will during hard driving. Then do an oil change (dino juice is recommended to start with ONLY because it's cheaper, you can use synth if you're made of money ). Drive it normally for 500 miles and then do another change to clean out any metal that may be floating around; most of the metal comes from the rings bedding in that first 30-50 mile stretch. This is where you'd want to start using synth if you're gonna. After than drive it however you want and do your regular oil changes.
So why break in a brand new car the way the manufacturer recommends? Because the rest of the drivetrain hasn't had time to break in. Hard launching and really working the clutch and gearbox can lead to premature failure of those parts.
For more, go find motoman or mototune USA
Ok, here's my take, in a nutshell. Back in the day making the cylinder walls smooth as glass wasn't important (from an American car factory let's-save-a-couple-bucks point of view) or wasn't available to the home mechanic. This' started to change in the 80's as DIY car repair became more mainstream. When the cylinder walls were left rough, then yes, you HAD to break the engine in gently and basically you were using your piston rings to wear away at the rough spots. They figured that this took about 2000 miles, and a couple oil changes in there, or whatever, and then after that you'd smoothed things out enough that you could go all out without worrying about the internals.
This has been the dominate method on rebuilds (slow easy break in) because it's how our dads had to do it.
Not so long ago auto manufacturers learned to make the cylinder walls smooth. This not only reduced wear on the rings and the walls but it reduces the amount of microscopic metal that's being pumped through your engine so all-in-all it makes for a longer lasting, better running engine.
So, in theory (the theory does hold up) is that if you've rebuilt an engine (i.e. installed pistons) you can get the engine warm and then drive it like you're qualifying for 30-50 miles, but not on the freeway; you're trying to get the rings to expand and contract as they normally will during hard driving. Then do an oil change (dino juice is recommended to start with ONLY because it's cheaper, you can use synth if you're made of money
). Drive it normally for 500 miles and then do another change to clean out any metal that may be floating around; most of the metal comes from the rings bedding in that first 30-50 mile stretch. This is where you'd want to start using synth if you're gonna. After than drive it however you want and do your regular oil changes.So why break in a brand new car the way the manufacturer recommends? Because the rest of the drivetrain hasn't had time to break in. Hard launching and really working the clutch and gearbox can lead to premature failure of those parts.
For more, go find motoman or mototune USA
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From: Canuckistan
Yeah my mechanic told me to change the speed quite regularly, and to not be afraid to gun it every once in a while, basically to break it in like the way I'm going to drive it eventually.
Originally Posted by Alchemist
--- Disclaimer--- The following is for informational/discussion purposes only. I am not recommending you follow ANY of the recommendations outlined below. Should you follow anyone's advice, whether it be in line with the manufactrer's advice or against it, I take no responsibility for YOUR actions. ---end disclaimer---
Ok, here's my take, in a nutshell. Back in the day making the cylinder walls smooth as glass wasn't important (from an American car factory let's-save-a-couple-bucks point of view) or wasn't available to the home mechanic. This' started to change in the 80's as DIY car repair became more mainstream. When the cylinder walls were left rough, then yes, you HAD to break the engine in gently and basically you were using your piston rings to wear away at the rough spots. They figured that this took about 2000 miles, and a couple oil changes in there, or whatever, and then after that you'd smoothed things out enough that you could go all out without worrying about the internals.
This has been the dominate method on rebuilds (slow easy break in) because it's how our dads had to do it.
Not so long ago auto manufacturers learned to make the cylinder walls smooth. This not only reduced wear on the rings and the walls but it reduces the amount of microscopic metal that's being pumped through your engine so all-in-all it makes for a longer lasting, better running engine.
So, in theory (the theory does hold up) is that if you've rebuilt an engine (i.e. installed pistons) you can get the engine warm and then drive it like you're qualifying for 30-50 miles, but not on the freeway; you're trying to get the rings to expand and contract as they normally will during hard driving. Then do an oil change (dino juice is recommended to start with ONLY because it's cheaper, you can use synth if you're made of money ). Drive it normally for 500 miles and then do another change to clean out any metal that may be floating around; most of the metal comes from the rings bedding in that first 30-50 mile stretch. This is where you'd want to start using synth if you're gonna. After than drive it however you want and do your regular oil changes.
So why break in a brand new car the way the manufacturer recommends? Because the rest of the drivetrain hasn't had time to break in. Hard launching and really working the clutch and gearbox can lead to premature failure of those parts.
For more, go find motoman or mototune USA
Ok, here's my take, in a nutshell. Back in the day making the cylinder walls smooth as glass wasn't important (from an American car factory let's-save-a-couple-bucks point of view) or wasn't available to the home mechanic. This' started to change in the 80's as DIY car repair became more mainstream. When the cylinder walls were left rough, then yes, you HAD to break the engine in gently and basically you were using your piston rings to wear away at the rough spots. They figured that this took about 2000 miles, and a couple oil changes in there, or whatever, and then after that you'd smoothed things out enough that you could go all out without worrying about the internals.
This has been the dominate method on rebuilds (slow easy break in) because it's how our dads had to do it.
Not so long ago auto manufacturers learned to make the cylinder walls smooth. This not only reduced wear on the rings and the walls but it reduces the amount of microscopic metal that's being pumped through your engine so all-in-all it makes for a longer lasting, better running engine.
So, in theory (the theory does hold up) is that if you've rebuilt an engine (i.e. installed pistons) you can get the engine warm and then drive it like you're qualifying for 30-50 miles, but not on the freeway; you're trying to get the rings to expand and contract as they normally will during hard driving. Then do an oil change (dino juice is recommended to start with ONLY because it's cheaper, you can use synth if you're made of money
). Drive it normally for 500 miles and then do another change to clean out any metal that may be floating around; most of the metal comes from the rings bedding in that first 30-50 mile stretch. This is where you'd want to start using synth if you're gonna. After than drive it however you want and do your regular oil changes.So why break in a brand new car the way the manufacturer recommends? Because the rest of the drivetrain hasn't had time to break in. Hard launching and really working the clutch and gearbox can lead to premature failure of those parts.
For more, go find motoman or mototune USA
and thus why u are a guru.
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