Yea im gonna get into autocrossing and i want to get soemthing, but im in a little dilemma right now: should i get an intake or rotors? i know an intake will help acceleration but with autocrossing, do i need it? i noticed after some hardcore driving through the hilly, forest streets of wisconsin, that my rotors got reeeeeally hot and the heat actually transfered to my rims. im not sure if this is affecting my braking performance but getting the power slots seems to be a good idea. btw im using stock pads right now.



so what do u all think? any other suggestions would be great too thanks everyone!

 

Some nice street legal slicks (Tires)

If I had to choose between those two, I'd pick the CAI (Intake)

 

lol ok, let's just make this between the intake and the rotors. i just realized that wheels and tires would be #1 thanks guys.

 

First, I'd say start autocrossing without anything to get a baseline for how the car handles.

Second, I'd say improve the handling, which means either wheels/tires or strut bar/sway bar.

Third, I'd say brake rotors. The brake fade will happen completely over the course of each run, the brakes will cool again before your next run, and they'll fade again each run you make. That's the thing I noticed most about my autocrossing on Sunday, which was my first time.

The intake may help too, but very little. A little torque is great for autocrossing because you're constantly mashing the gas after coming out of turns to get going again a little quicker, but I don't think the intake (especially alone) will make more than a few lb-ft. It may make it louder, but most acceleration effects will likely be psycholigical until you can open up the air path through the entire engine (intake, tb, headers, exhaust).
-N

 

thanks for the great reply, i'll see what this car lacks!

and for those of you who have autocrossed with stock tires..what was your front and rear tire pressure? and what made you pick that pressure? thanks!

 

Only did this once, but 44 fronts, 30 rears-helps the back of the car rotate in turns. Good luck.

 

44!! isnt that kinda high? but ill see what ill do..so u're saying a slightly lower pressure in the back helps the back end slide a bit?

 

Bobaab! MLC! Hey man, Ive autocrossed many times, where you going to go? Im going to the Route 66 event in June. Id recommend around 40 for the fronts (44 is cool too) and maybe 34 for the rears. If its your first time though, dont even worry about tire pressures, mods, etc. Just get some seat experience. Also, if you really want a useful mod, go with a rear sway bar, best mod you can make for an autocross event besides coil overs, rims and tires, etc....
Honestly though, the car is quite competant in stock form. The stock tires suck though. Just go to have fun, and dont expect to win first time out. Good luck, and hope to see ya at the event.

BTW, yes lower tire pressure equals less grip, to a point. It definately helps to bump the tire pressures up though.

 

hey man, thanks for that reply.

im actually going to Sugar River Raceway a little northwest of rockford this Sunday, June 1st. one of the guys here on EvoM invited me and so im gonna join him sunday

i guess i should see what the car lacks first. but i was driving around the twisty and hilly roads in wisconsin and i noticed that the handling wasnt all too bad! it wasn't scary and i felt confident going into turns. but im sure ill feel more confidence with a new set of wheels!

so yea, this thread is off its topic, but can u just give me some pointers? one thing i was worried about it when to downshift or slow down.. i don't exactly know the limits to this car yet so i know im gonna lose time there. but if u have any other suggestion, plz tell me! thanks

EDIT: oh yea, one thing i noticed about the brakes while driving was that it got reeeally hot and i know my pads are fading pretty quick. maybe i should get the porterfield pads that rrm offers?

 

Yea, pads would definately help, Ive got 17 inch monsters on my car now, and witht he added unsprung weight I might be in trouble. Remember, these runs are not that long, wont heat up your brakes that much. Hey, jump on instant messanger, it would be alot easy to talk through that.

 

Seat time is the greatest factor in autocrossing. It looks like you have at least one from the forum to help you out. If not, hook up with someone at the event who can explain what to look for when at the solo. I have never been to an event at a regional level in which the "pros" wouldn't lend a hand or advice to a novice. It is a competition, but everyone should have fun and the organizers usually make sure that you do.

Don't spend too much time on the car prep-get in and drive!

Jason
"I have your car towed all the way to your house and all you got for me is light beer?"

 

I ran pressures of 40 in the rears and 45 in the front. I tried 40/40 originally because that's just what my car had in it already (from dealership a few months ago). Fronts definitely need more than 40 on stock tires - they collapse way too much. I think I'd go higher next time to maybe 48. The rears probably could lose a little, but I'm not a fan of throwing my rear around, so I probably won't.

As for downshifting, you won't. You'll launch in 1st, go up to second in time to catch the powerband in second and you'll stay there until after you cross the finish line. You aren't likely to ever shift back to first unless you spin out or have to stop for whatever reason and you're not likely ever to benefit from going to third because most autocrosses won't have straightaways long enough to hit the revlimiter in second.

Brakes from my experience will heat up though enough to drastically change their feel through a 90 second run. You can decide that for yourself, but I intend to replace my stock pads with some performance friction ones when they're gone. New rotors maybe, but definitely good pads.
-N

 

First of all tires are your #1 upgrade... second in the 50 second autocross courses we'll be running on Sunday Bob you wont' see any heat fade. Also with the way the classing is set up you'll want to try and score all the horsepower you can get. Additionally the point system will not give you any points for a SRI, but it will give you points for the rotors I'm pretty sure.

As far as tires pressure that is 100% dependent on the track conditions. We mark our tires with chalk or shoe polish and then check the wear points on the tire to make sure that it uses the full width of the tire tread and doesn't go over the edge on to the sidewall more than 1/8"

For our cars and the classification you'll really want to focus on suspension. A huge bonus for you is going to be getting the rear sway bar. I did that and it made a huge difference (get the perches while you are at it.. I'm replacing mine tomorrow as I cracked the stock ones real well) With the rear sway bar you will end up with the oversteer you need to get through some portions at greater speeds.. much better than compromising your tire traction by lowering you pressure to a point where the sidewall is making road contact...

Sporty brake pads are a good way to go to improve your braking power but in our class D we are against Neon's and a few other interesting assortments (fieros, t-birds, taurus' and others whichis an odd grouping if you ask me)

They give you 4 laps with an instructor before the actual race when you are brand new so that you can learn more that way too. Then find me (only other silver lancer there I'd guess) and we can walk the track together and so forth before the races and tell you everything I learned racing last time and all I plan to do this race to keep my top 3 position in the ranks for DM class.

Think that covers most of it! Can't wait for Sunday.... going to kick butt!

 

A suggestion for determining what tire pressure you should be using. One method that is to take some chalk or a tire crayon with you. Before each run mark three wide lines about 120 degress apart on each tire. The line should go from your tread to about 3 to 4 inches down on your sidewall. After you complete the run see how much of the line is left. If it is all gone you are rolling up onto your sidewall and need to add more pressure. If it is all there your pressure is to high and you are probably not using all of the tire. Optimally you are looking to use as much of the tire as possible without rolling over onto the side wall. Hope this helps.

Shad

 

look up urbanknight he one of the wise auto-x masters of this fourm i believe if you search you will find some threads on auto x he formed.