Why redline?
Why redline?
We all know that it's best not to rev up above 4k rpm for the first 3k miles, and then we can start to rev up more and more as the mileage on the ODO inceases.
So what if I don't rev up my car at all? Always shift @ 3000~3500rpm..
Why rev up? Other than achieving the most power from gear to gear, will it do any good to the car in the long term?
I've heard ppl saying that if I don't rev up, my car won't be able to accelerate fast in the long run..
True? Is there an explanation for that?
Or I should just drive like I drive now? Keeping it under 4k and always drive safe
PS. I've even had ppl telling me to rev after each oil change, eh??
So what if I don't rev up my car at all? Always shift @ 3000~3500rpm..
Why rev up? Other than achieving the most power from gear to gear, will it do any good to the car in the long term?
I've heard ppl saying that if I don't rev up, my car won't be able to accelerate fast in the long run..
True? Is there an explanation for that?
Or I should just drive like I drive now? Keeping it under 4k and always drive safe
PS. I've even had ppl telling me to rev after each oil change, eh??
It is said that if you want your car to perform at its peak, you'll need to start the car off right, by driving it the way you plan on driving it down the road.
I'm not sure exactly what the difference could be, driving hard or not during breakin. I think it has to do with the MAS and the air/fuel ratios that the computer will come up with. This is achieved during the breakin period.
However, the MAS on this car is adaptive. Eventually it will change settings on its own. You can also disconnect the battey for half and hour and then beat on the car. The computer will program itself with those new settings.
Don't beat on the car during breakin, or shortly thereafter. Id rather have my car last longer. It doesn't matter how long it takes to get where you're going, so long as you get there.
Beat on the car, who knows...you might not get there.
I'm not sure exactly what the difference could be, driving hard or not during breakin. I think it has to do with the MAS and the air/fuel ratios that the computer will come up with. This is achieved during the breakin period.
However, the MAS on this car is adaptive. Eventually it will change settings on its own. You can also disconnect the battey for half and hour and then beat on the car. The computer will program itself with those new settings.
Don't beat on the car during breakin, or shortly thereafter. Id rather have my car last longer. It doesn't matter how long it takes to get where you're going, so long as you get there.
Beat on the car, who knows...you might not get there.
My wife drives a Volvo S70 T5, which has 236 HP, half of which she never uses. 
She probably never gets above 3500 RPM in that car.
When I actually "redline" the car about three or four times a year... it is up to the task, no problem.
The fact is that many people, like my wife, never take their cars anywhere near the red line, and the cars don't seem to suffer from it.
Although years ago, when I lived in LA, I was picking my Porsche up after some dealer service. The service advisor told me I had some carbon deposits, and that the best thing to get rid of them was a high-speed run to Las Vegas.
If I had been pulled over, I could just tell the officer, "yes, I was going 140 MPH, but I'm just following the dealer recommended procedure for removing carbon deposits." 
She probably never gets above 3500 RPM in that car.When I actually "redline" the car about three or four times a year... it is up to the task, no problem.
The fact is that many people, like my wife, never take their cars anywhere near the red line, and the cars don't seem to suffer from it.
Although years ago, when I lived in LA, I was picking my Porsche up after some dealer service. The service advisor told me I had some carbon deposits, and that the best thing to get rid of them was a high-speed run to Las Vegas.
If I had been pulled over, I could just tell the officer, "yes, I was going 140 MPH, but I'm just following the dealer recommended procedure for removing carbon deposits."