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Thinking about a new project...all opinions welcome.

Old Aug 20, 2007 | 02:41 PM
  #31  
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I agree with Xshieldsx - just push 5psi to start with. It's going to be a great boost (guesstimate at LEAST 50whp), and it should be a safe amount to keep your pistons and rods from melting (which does not happen NEARLY as often as amby keeps saying... ).
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 02:42 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by ambystom01
I would recommend taking all the precautions to ensure a strong engine. While I'm sure quite a few people will disagree with me, I would still change the rods and pistons just as an insurance policy. That way the obvious problems are taken care of so if for whatever reason you get a boost spike because of changing temperatures, leak, etc. you'll be ok.
Originally Posted by crypto
I agree with this 100% its always good to be on the safe side. I plan on eventually upgrading my pistons and rods even though i don't plan on pushing more than 7psi.
And that way in the future if I wanna bump my boost up a bit for more power I will be set. My problem is that I don't really know of a shop that tuned nearby but then again I havent been looking. I live out in a small town about 30 miles from the nearest bigger city so thats a little difficult. I know a mechanic here that would help me out with the forged internals if I go that route.

Thanks. I appreciate all the input so far.
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 02:44 PM
  #33  
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From: Concord Township, Ohio
Originally Posted by JohnnyBoy427
And that way in the future if I wanna bump my boost up a bit for more power I will be set. My problem is that I don't really know of a shop that tuned nearby but then again I havent been looking. I live out in a small town about 30 miles from the nearest bigger city so thats a little difficult. I know a mechanic here that would help me out with the forged internals if I go that route.
It doesn't need to be a nearby thing. Get everything installed, and then do what you have to do for tuning. Heck, some folks drive 2 states to get to a shop they trust.

And RRM is a great resource. They will spend time with you on the phone troubleshooting and helping you work things out. Don't forget that.
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 02:44 PM
  #34  
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From: Canuckistan
Originally Posted by Blacksheepdj
I agree with Xshieldsx - just push 5psi to start with. It's going to be a great boost (guesstimate at LEAST 50whp), and it should be a safe amount to keep your pistons and rods from melting (which does not happen NEARLY as often as amby keeps saying... ).
Hahaha true it's a relatively rare event but it's still something a paranoid freak like myself would defend against.
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 02:46 PM
  #35  
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From: Concord Township, Ohio
Originally Posted by ambystom01
Hahaha true it's a relatively rare event but it's still something a paranoid freak like myself would defend against.
Yeah, well half the WRXs in my local club have gotten rod knock from bearings dying prematurely (even a stock one). Have fun worrying about that.
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 02:49 PM
  #36  
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From: Canuckistan
New WRXs or the old slow ones?
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 02:54 PM
  #37  
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From: Iowa
Originally Posted by Blacksheepdj
It doesn't need to be a nearby thing. Get everything installed, and then do what you have to do for tuning. Heck, some folks drive 2 states to get to a shop they trust.

And RRM is a great resource. They will spend time with you on the phone troubleshooting and helping you work things out. Don't forget that.
Ah well that was one thing I was worried about is if I'm going to be able to drive it after I install the turbo since it isnt just your average bolt on. I know the RRM kit comes with a base map in the form of a piggyback i belive but what about if i piece my own kit together? could I use that same piggyback?
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 02:57 PM
  #38  
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From: Canuckistan
No you'd have to get a custom tune since the parameters wouldn't be exactly the same.
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 04:08 PM
  #39  
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From: Iowa
ah gotcha. well as I posed in another topic, my linkage end bushing is busted so im going to pick a new one up right now and install it tomorrow so thats my top priority now.
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 04:59 PM
  #40  
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From: Waterville, ME
seens how ive been pondering what to do about turbo as well. Ill tell you my plans. you can use some info or ideas or mabey this will help.

used evo VIII 16g6 turbo.
used 02 housing
used evo VIII IC with pipes (pipes need to be fabbed/customized)
get a wastegate actuator with 5 psi spring or use a 2'nd gen rx7 actuator and fab it on (5.5 psi). Get a boost controller to up it to 7 psi or w/e.
RRM piggyback and a wideband to tune with laptop software.
Megan SS evo manifold, SS 4g94 flange. Move runners on evo mani to weld on 4g94 mani.
stock evo DP, add about 1 foot.

Thats basically most of the kit....Some customizing needed but really. fairly easy kit to build. Been done a few times for under 2 grand. Of course they didnt have a boost controller and some other things. Custom is an option.
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 05:02 PM
  #41  
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From: Concord Township, Ohio
Originally Posted by JohnnyBoy427
Ah well that was one thing I was worried about is if I'm going to be able to drive it after I install the turbo since it isnt just your average bolt on. I know the RRM kit comes with a base map in the form of a piggyback i belive but what about if i piece my own kit together? could I use that same piggyback?
You should at least have something runnable when you're done with install. Maybe you don't rev above 3k rpm, avoid boost, etc. But you should at least be able to do basic driving to get to a tuner. Or you can get a turbo-tuned piggyback from RRM and have a solid starting point (and then go to a tuner for a tune specific to your car/modifications).
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 07:48 PM
  #42  
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From: Iowa
Thanks for all the opinions. Keep them coming guys. I really appreciate all the help.
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 08:14 PM
  #43  
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From: Iowa
Conclusion.

After a lot of research I found out that the best thing I can do to the engine in this car is NOTHING. The way I will go about that is when something breaks I will replace it with a better part. For example, if my exhaust rusts out I will think about replacing it with a Magnaflow catback. For now I will just make it look clean and upgrade the stereo.
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 10:33 PM
  #44  
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From: Concord Township, Ohio
Originally Posted by JohnnyBoy427
After a lot of research I found out that the best thing I can do to the engine in this car is NOTHING. The way I will go about that is when something breaks I will replace it with a better part. For example, if my exhaust rusts out I will think about replacing it with a Magnaflow catback. For now I will just make it look clean and upgrade the stereo.
I support this decision 100%.

As I was discussing with a friend tonight: if you want a fast car, buy a different one. If you want a nice Lancer, then make it how you like it.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 08:01 PM
  #45  
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I will say that is the approach I have taken since I got my lancer and I will say I am quite pleased with the turn out. I just put on my sway bar so Ive pretty much done everything I planned for it. Ive rallycrossed it which is something no one seems to give enough credit to lancers for but now Im in a dilemma because I could sell the car and get a 2.5 RS which would get the job done or I could just keep working on the lancer and start working on internals
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