Hey guys,

I thought I would share with everyone what I've been working on as far as inexpensive modifications in regards to oil/air filters.... First of all, all of my information comes from this website: www.bobistheoilguy.com
which is just an amazing site as far as the testing being done on oils, filters (air and oil), gear lubes and many other things we often tend to forget about....
I personally drive an '02 Lancer OZ, and commute with my wife about 120-130 miles per day. Needless to say, efficiency and reliability are both a huge factor in our much loved daily driver, which is why I was hesitant to deviate from 26 years of old-people myths that have been pounded into my brain... The most prominant one being about extended drain intervals on motor oils (synthetics). I am now using Mobil 1 (5W30) and (for right now) a Fram filter (because I am still deciding on the best oil filter). On my last oil change, I had 10k miles, on both the filter and the oil. I watched the oil very carefully while draining it, and it was a deep honey-brown color, that you could still see through. This time I plan on swapping the filter once on the way to another 10k miles. I am under the impression this is a safe practice, due to many of the factory recommendations which manufacturers issue regarding Mobil 1 oil change intervals in their cars. For instance, Mobil 1 is an OEM specified oil in all Porsches, and the interval given is 15,000 miles between oil changes (in the Boxster). Other impressions have been made by extensive oil testing on the above listed website.
I have also just switched to a Napa Gold air filter (built by Wix). I previously had a Purolator air filter in the stock unmodified airbox, which was there for 10k miles or so. After changing to the Napa I immediately noticed a huge difference in the intake sound, even at low revs. I actually pulled over to ensure I had reattached the intake boot to the filter housing (after cleaning)... sure enough I had. My car pulls very hard to redline, with no noticable dirt or dust getting past the paper air filters I have been using (which has quite often been a huge arguement regarding some K&N installations).
I have also just switched to Red Line's MT-90 synthetic tranny fluid for improved transmission efficiency and smoother shifts. I was not having any problems before, but have read a lot of great things from back to back comparisons (usually on the above listed website). I remember quite a few issues ago, in Sport Compact Car, the editor changed out his entire driveline fluids on his BMW to full synthetic fluids, and saw an immediate increase in hp during back to back dyno comparisons. This theory can logically carry over to my fwd Lancer, which was a major contributing factor as to why I have switched.
I guess you could say I'm on a quest to make my car more enjoyable and gain some noticable performance, while on a very strict budget. I am trying to stay away from intakes and cat-backs, only because I'm trying to keep my daily driver from being a money pit.... I'd rather upgrade my house.... anyway.... I just wanted to share that information with everyone, and give out another very useful resource in our quest for better performance.... James

 

I have heard bad things about synthetic motor oil in our motors do to the oil pump having a problem with clearance specs being to widespread. Meaning a thinner oil (synthetic) will not be picked up as easily. A few people have thrown cylinder#4's rod, and the pump is by #1, using synthetic. I personally use Mobil 1 full synthetic 15w50 in the summer and 10w30 in the winter. I change it every 3,000 miles. I believe its better hands down, but just giving a word of caution. For the tranny, I'm going to switch to synthetic soon because I crossed 30,000 miles and feel its time. Is there a filter in the tranny to change or a screen to clean.

 

Good point, although from what I understand, thrown pistons are due to inertia overcoming the strength of the metal, in other words, a piston which is too heavy, or one that has exceeded it's recommended revolutions per minute, therefore making it "heavy" so to speak.... I don't believe the oil would come into play on the street... although this is just my opinion... I'd be interested to know the conditions the engine was under during the "throw" (i.e. what rpms was the engine at exactly and what type of load was it under, climbing hills, racing, in extreme climates, etc...). Another interesting test would be to keep an eye on spark plugs after hard driving, as adverse piston temperatures may yield a hotter burning cylinder.
On another note, I called Mitsubishi (a local dealer) and they assured me there was no filter or screen to worry about, and that regular services on the tranny (manual 5 speed) only get drained and refilled..... Hope this helps you.... James