good stuff, you guys rock, me and my friend are going to be doing this within a week, ill let you guys know how helpful your writeup was, but it loooks great considering i already have the relocation kit form summit (including box), great job again guys, helping me on my way to cold air intake and fmic!

 

I got a response from a tech certified member in my autocross region. The cutoff switch is not required for solo2. It is required for SOME classes in solo1, mainly if you don't have a firewall in the rear. So my setup is considered safe for both daily driving, open track sessions, and autocrossing. I still might add the battery box to look better and keep it seperated from the other contents of my trunk.

One thing I don't understand about the cutoff switch... why would it matter if it tapped into the ecu? If you cut it off from the battery, nothing should spark bahind the passenger compartment anyway, which is the only location concerned with the relocation and the cutoff switch anyway? I guess some rules don't make sense, like the tracks requiring long sleeve t-shirts for insurance reasons

 

Hey help me out with this during the summer eh?
I'll buy u whopper eh? eh?

 

hey turbo, no prob man i had to do it for my car for that exact reason and would love to help anyone else out to do the same.

Joe, I will help you the way I helped brian if you need anytime. just ask brian my idea of helping

 

By the way Vince. There was nothing wrong with that terminal, jut the two idiots who kept putting it on upside down You should see the poor battery post, it's chewed up, but I put the terminal on the right way tonight. Working great!

 

Could someone show a pic of which screw you attatched the ground wire too?

 

I can't take any pics right now because my computer is dead, but there are 3 screws in the right side of the trunk floor. Just choose whichever you like, I think it was the rear most one that fit best with the stock battery size.

 

has anyone had any problems with their power wire? its weird, half of mine doesnt work anymore. the trunk end of the wire works, but up in the front under the hood it dosent?!?!?!? very weird. any input?

 

alright. thanks! ...nothings gonna drop out when i take off the screw right?

 

hmm, might have to do this

 

u know u will lose Power from ur battery to whatever tha battery is hooking up too...basically it will take longer for things to react, thats why its in tha hood...close to tha engine..ON PURPOSE!!! but whateva, do what ya want...My stepdad told me about this battery location shyt....NOT a GOOD IDEA..i wish it could be better but its not!! proven fact! Hes a professional mechanic by tha way! if ya don't believe me...Look it up on tha owners manual...It talks about the battery and what it does...AND WHY it NEEDS to be in tha hood!

 

might not be an issue of timing ccu..., but it is an issue of power loss over the lenght of battery cable. Up sizing the cable in most cases takes care of that problem.
racers will almost always do what makes them think they can win. they put the battery in the back for weight. performance cars for a long time have put the battery in the back. my alfa ss designed in the mid fifties has, what, the battery in the trunk.

all things being equal, yes battery next to the starter, next to the coil ... but car designers are willing to make concessions in order to make a "better" design and will put the thing where ever they want.

A well thought out instillation will perform without problems. I'm sure your Dad has seen many half as$ed instillations over the years. After all he is there to fix broken cars.

 

Although that makes sense, there are a few things to consider:
1) A battery does not like to be stored over about 120 degrees (guess which is hotter, your trunk or the engine). Batteries mounted in the trunk last about 20% longer than batteries kept in the engine bay.
2) Battery relocation kits use 0 guage wire to ensure minimal to no power loss (look up summit racing to find out power tests). Although I think you're right that the car will take a split second longer to start, it is so insignificant in the Lancer that I can't tell the difference.
3) The car does not run off the battery, so after you start the car, the alternator (which is STILL kept in the engine bay) is providing all the electricity. Therefore, you only experience power loss from a relocated battery when starting the car.
4) The reason for relocating the battery is for WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION, not engine performance. In the Lancer, it allows the car to have a better front-to-back as well as side balance, AND allows more ducting of air into the intake.

Your dad is quite correct that moving the battery does not benefit the car MECHANICALLY, but that is not what we're discussing here. Mechanics make cars run well and last long, race mechanics make cars run fast.

And for the record, not all cars have the battery in the hood from the factory. One example is the Lincoln LSE which comes with a trunk mounted battery. Why did they choose to do this for that particular model? I have no clue!

 

Only if you remove all of the trunk screws at the same time. But nothing fell off my car when I removed just one.

 

where is the best place to put it in the trunk, is it possible to mount it down in the spare tire well for better balance, if not would the passenger side be best to counter weight the weight of the driver??