That was definitely quote material right there!

Glad you got the car to turn over and hold idle man! Coming from many of us, we couldn't be happier for ya.

 

hey hey i was joking but glad to hear that its finally running. how long till you think its driveable?

 

Technically it's drivable now, but I don't want a repeat performance. I'm going to get my laptop working properly so I can monitor everything, then I'll get to making sure there's fuel under boost, and retuning idle again. Believe it or not you spend more time tuning your idle than pretty much anything else. IAC is a *****. Since the rings are brandy-new I want to be absolutely sure I do everything I can to prevent future damage to the motor. I don't want to do another teardown.

 

i read it a long time ago and dont know where the thread is and now have forgotten, but what did you do in the first place? run too much boost and blow a piston?

 

I always had fueling problems under boost. Hopefully the AEM FPR helps.

 

Not car related per se, but I finally found the elusive drivers for my PCMCIA > Serial converter, so I can get to tuning the car as early as tomorrow if I'm lucky.

What I really need to do is pull it out of the driveway, drive it up on ramps, and put the 2nd O2 sensor in, tighted up the downpipe to the exhaust, and put the bumper and headlights back in.

 

I hate starting posts like this, but...

In typical Andrew fashion something has gone wrong. As I mentioned I had my car running last week. Friday night before I went to my girlfriend's for the weekend I went to run the car for a minute on the way out. The car cranked a few times then died before starting. (AEM EMS usually takes a few cranks to sync before starting so that itself is not abnormal.) Tried to crank it again, no crank, still lights on in the car. One more time, no crank, no lights. In all of 45 seconds it deteriorated to nothing.

Now here's the thing. I thought the battery was dead. It's not. Checked the voltages on the battery (trunk) 12v, distributor block in the engine bay 12v, small wire on block 12v, wire w/ right angle attachment on block 12v, wire with straight but bendy (wavy) attachment 0.02v. I checked every fuse in the engine bay as well as in the kick panel. Everything was in perfect condition. Some have suggested a possible short.

I'm basically looking for any additional opinions and tips for troubleshooting. Naturally the wire with no current is also the one that's most difficult to reach and immediately goes into a harness, which in turn goes into the car interior shortly thereafter.

Anyway, I suck with electricity so I would hugely, hugely, hugely appreciate any help that you guys can give me. I know there's some of you out there who know more about electricity than I know about myself, so I hope you'll chime in.

I've posted the same problem (including same first 2 paragraphs) in the troubleshooting forum in case it may benefit anyone else down the line. Please help. Again, so close, yet so far.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...36#post1270036

 

Damn dude... I wish I were closer by - I'm sure I could find some time to help locate the short. The electical parts of the car are much more familiar to me than the mechanical ;-)
-N

 

Did you reuse the head studs before it snapped off? If so, never reuse them, unless ARP.

 

It wasn't a head stud that snapped. It was a valve cover stud.

 

Valve cover? You can drill them out. Be careful.

 

i noticed some talk about the head bolts, you should replace them andrew, when their tightened too much theres def issues, so run yourself to mitsu and get replacements, they arent too much.

 

Stock head bolts = once useage

ARP = almost infinite.

 

also the rod bolts, but only if they have been removed more than 2 or 3 times

 

From my understanding... not true. All head bolts are torque to yield... so you should NEVER reuse ANY of them... and considering it is only about 100 bucks for a full set of ARP studs I wouldn't be risking another gasket and tear down over that!

Now as far as Andrew's problem..

Do you have status indicators on the AEM? I'm concerned it may have crapped out on you...

Next check the main fuse boxes as you may have cut accessories power somehow.

Check for voltage at the AEM, and check the ignition inputs at the AEM while having the ignition turned. You should hear relays clicking if you have proper signals. But it sounds like something shorted out to ground... Also... try to read the voltages at the locations you listed when the engine is "cranked" (obviously it isn't doing anything... but you know what I mean). If it is dropping at accessories you have a short in that area, if the voltage only drops off a bunch when you hit 2nd ignition, then you have a different issue.

hope that helps... I'm subscribed now so I"ll pop on as new messages come up!

Have a good one.

Steve