Biz87

Sup! quite new to the forum... So I figured this would be my best way to introduce myself.

I found a great way to turn off the DRL's without voiding the cars warrently. No wires , splicing, or kits needed for this. All you need is something to strip a wire, electrical tape, and an IQ of at least 25.


When the car is off and the E-Breaks are pulled up the DRL's won't turn on. Not even when you turn the car on will the DRL's come on. There is no voltage going to the lights, nothing at all. But when you put the E-breaks down you activate the DRL's. So obviously theres a little thing going on down there if the E-breaks can trigger the DRLs.

Note: This procedure was done without disconnecting the pos. or neg. battery terminals, I was listening to music while doing this. This method does not violate the warranty contract and is safe to do without worries of electroshock.

Difficulty Level: Easy
Estimated Time: 5-15 minutes

Tools Needed
- a piece of wire from a device you no longer use ( i used an old digital clocks outlet wire )
- Something to cut/strip the wire ( I used nail clippers )
- Electrical Tape
- IQ +20


Step 1: Lift up the supermassive mid console storage we have and leave it open. Observe carefully the E-Break area and the creases that make up that shell ( this is not rocket surgery ). Now from the mid console storage, grab the rear of the E-Break shell and firmly pull up the rear part.

Step 2: Once the rear part of the E-break shell is up, work your way to the front part of the shell firmly pulling up along the edges until the entire piece comes off exposing the interior of the E-break area where you will notice a bunch of wires ( see pic below for an idea )

Step 3: Carefully observe the interior and the wires. Notice a green wire that is connected to a grounding device directly under the E-Break. Pull up the E-Break and firmly pull out the black connector from its place ( it won't break. dont worry ).

Step 4: Observe the the black connector. You will see a small square engraving on the connector that says " 13 amp ". This square is actually a doorway that can be opened. To open this small doorway, look behind the connector (where the green wire starts) and push upwards with a small screw driver or something (I used the pointy thing most nail clippers come with) until the doorway is gently opened.

Step 5: Grab a piece of wire and strip both ends exposing at least 2 inches of the conducting material (the copper hairs. 2 inches will make your job easier). Twist the ends.

Step 6: Take one end, and put it through the connector doorway exiting the rear part of the connector. Then pass it through the other direction creating a hook or a loop around the silver part of the inside of the connector ( to understand this you will just have to see it and use the brain ). Once you have the wire wrapped around the silver part you twist it creating a small knot. TAPE IT UP - SEAL IT UP

Step 7: Take the other end of the wire you have stripped and ground it to the nearest piece of metal ( see my pic below to see where I grounded it )


That's all there is to it. Your DRL's will no longer turn on after doing this and you will be able to safely throw on some HID's without the flickering and worries of damaging the ballast.
Enjoy.

ashun22panda

will try it in 30 min. ill let you know if it work

bigredlancer08

iTrader: (2)

ok, so i tried it, and it got the running lights off which was great, but the brake light stayed on the whole time and the car kept beeping and flashing at me to lower the e-brake. any solutions to that problem?

ashun22panda

Almost too easy. I got it in one try. Things like that don't come often. Maybe we have different Amps, but mine was 10 AMP. The DRL don't turn on anymore. You're truly a genius.

I have somewhat a solution of the issue for Pulling to the left by warrenty. Do you have this problem?

ashun22panda

CRAP! I didn't drive it yet.. =( i hope i dont have that problem. I'm gonna drive it right now.

ashun22panda

OH NO! i think its the GTS Trim that has this problem. I think the other trims doesn't have the display.. SIGH -_-

elpoole

what happened....?

CamShaft

I swore someone said the drl's were tied into the ecu, so even bypassing the P/brake switch would work until the ECU saw road speed, then just turn on.

I also swore I saw a fuse or maybe just thought about a fuse for the DRL.

I really dont care because I don't like the HID's anyways. But you I saw in all the other DRL threads that it was incorporated into the ECU and couldn't be turned off unless wiring was done.

This all made sense to me, so as a curious mechanic I left it alone. I didn't think twice.

But obviously not all corners have been explored on this. Almost makes me want to investigate even though I have no intentions of putting HID's in :P

Try looking for a DRL fuse both in the dash and the engine bay. Just curious.

bigredlancer08

iTrader: (2)

if your talking about the display between the speedometer and tach, all the trims have that. i have the DE trim, and i was having the problem with the beeping and the display not going away. its such a dissappointment, you get the lights off, your so happy, then BAM!! the beeping starts and doesnt go away. i pulled over the rip the wire out lol

bigredlancer08

iTrader: (2)

i dont even want to put the HID's in, i just want the running lights off. i've always thought they were a waste. i also have times when i want all my lights off and can't do it cuz of the DTR's

ashun22panda

Damn, i knew it wasn't that easy. I noticed a few things. After you release the parking breaks and start driving again, the DRL will still come on. But if you dont drive and you release the parking breaks, the lights DO NOT come on, which give us all hope. it doesn't work. it was a good try.

ashun22panda

Ahh. I do not knwo as to WHY it failed, I'm just giving you the result of the experiment =)

bigredlancer08

iTrader: (2)

alrighty. i think it is connected to the ECU like others have said, it makes more sense. i wonder if theres a way to program the ecu to turn them off??

bigredlancer08

iTrader: (2)

oh, out of curiosity, did you connect the black piece back onto it's ground that you pull it off of after putting in the wire? i put it back on, but looking at it again, the ground it comes off of is connected right onto the e-brake. maybe running the wire like before but not putting it onto the other ground would fix it?

ashun22panda

im not completely clear of what you're saying, try it and tell me =)