I'd like a full how-to write up on an oil pressure gauge. I'm sure some of you out there have done one, and I'd like to know where exactly to install the sending unit. Also, is there a way to keep the stock pressure sensor so the light in the cabin doesn't go on?

 

I would like such a write-up as well. I am thinking of putting an pil pressure guage on a steering column pod. Also trying to decide on digital or mechanical. Any help would be great.

 

why would you need an oil pressure gauge at the center of your attention? im just curious as to your particular style of driving. oh wait, an autoxer, question answered, everything explained. Kinda makes this post pointless. Well that makes number 3.

 

I think it's going to vary from brand of gauge to brand of gauge, because I don't think they all use the same pressure sensors and senders. If it doesn't have to be Lancer specific I'm sure you could find an answer with a bit of web searching.

 

Um, if it helps, I third the request for a write-up.

 

uhm.. i just ordered my air/fuel gauges and also boost gauges i can do a write up on those if you would like

 

This may or may not help, but I figured it's worth a shot...

In order to keep your factory oil level warning light/buzzer from going off, you will need to a) replace the factory sender with a "dual sender" or, b) use the aftermarket sender and kill the oil warning light/buzzer manually or, c) tap the aftermarket sender somewhere else in the block. The above options were listed from most desirable to least desirable (IMO).

Take my old GTi VR6, for example... VDO made an aftermarket oil pressure sender that would go in the place of the factory sender unit, but at the top of it, had two signal outputs. One would go to the factory wire, and the other one would go to the aftermarket VDO oil pressure gauge. I am not sure if such unit is available to you, what I would suggest you do is that you first take measurement of thread size as well as voltage of your factory unit. If there are companies out there that can find a unit that suits your application, then you're in luck.

I think the other two options are pretty self-explanatory, but I really wouldn't recommend the third option unless you're really that desperate to monitor your oil pressure.

Brian: I would just recommend an electrical unit. I don't really see the need for a mechanical gauge? The thought of running a line of steamy hot engine oil into the cockpit isn't exactly my idea of fun.

 

Easiest way to get oil pressure connected is through an oil filter block ( oil cooler block or oil sensor block) they connect to the engine between the oil filter and have spots to fit 1/8 pt connections I have a link for one somewhere , if I find it ill post it. I have a greddy oil pressure and oil temp gauges setup through it .

 

JVlancer: That would be cool if you could do a write up because I plan on doing more gauge installs and I am sure other people will be doing them as well.

urbanknight: If you want the gauge in the cabin, you're going to have to use an electrical gauge because a mechanical gauge will have oil right behind the gauge itself. It wouldn't be pretty if that thing broke and sprayed you with 200 degree oil.

Quickshift: I'm a little confused about what you're talking about. Do you mean there is a sender unit that screws in where the oil filter goes, and then the oil filter screws into the other side of it?

After everyones comments I think I'm going to call up or email the gauge companies and see what they have to say. Any suggestions on gauge manufacturers? I already know of Autometer, Greddy, Blitz, and Defi. I haven't seen much on Defi pricing, but it looks expensive to me.

 

anyone ever do this?

 

Mechanical guages typically have a larger sweep compared to electric ones. Autometers have I believe 270 degrees of sweep while most electric have maybe 130. It depends on the manufacturer.

The state of the art mechanical gauges use a capillary between the source and teh gauge. So the oil is isolated from the gauge while still retaining the best of the mechanical gauge wide range of readings. For street aps, I know a lot of people use copper fittings (think T) and put the T into the block, the factory sensor into one opening, and the new sending unit into the other. Pressure is pressure, so it doesn't matter in the orientation.

I would also like to see someone's installation/solution to this.

Jason

 

i have an aem fpr that goes on a 94 honda civic and a guage would b great, the shop around here odes install for it for 100 bucks and i have yet to need anything installed for me and don't plan to anytime so a compleat writeup on a particular guage would b great, just pick a guage thats best for the buck if you need a specific one

 

To solve the oil lines past the firewall thing...Defi Link. The sender unit = brilliant. My gauges should be arriving today. Depending upon how much down time I'm going to have and the apparently difficulty of wiring the fuel pressure gauge I may or may not do write ups. Depends whether or not I end up doing it all myself. If/when there's progress I'll be sure to share.

 

Lookin' forward to it.

 

Well my main reason was to keep track of oil pressure during canyon runs and track days, but it seems that my Lancer loses almost no oil even after 2 days (about 4 hours of seat time) at a race track. Which is good compared to my dad's shelby, which uses up about 2 quarts per 20 min session. Maybe I will be fine with the standard warning light and just know to shut down if I see it light up?