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Old Aug 25, 2012, 12:04 PM
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Exhaust Manifold Replacement

2003 Lancer ES

So, I am replacing my front exhaust manifold/catalytic converter and I got to the point of engine block threads. These things do not seem like they will come off easily, so I have a few questions:

Exhaust Manifold Replacement-6c2xo.jpg

1. Do I remove them just like an other nut? (Turning left)
2. I am planning to replace the nuts, they are really rusted, I will get regular anodized nuts, will that be alright?
3. Is it possible to (easily) remove the engine block threads without messing around with the block? I want to because they are really rusted as well. Do you guys know where I could find them? Or maybe is it better to use a "thread restoration" kit? (like this - link) Maybe use a wire brush on drill to remove the rust?
4. MOST IMPORTANT PART: do you guys think its safe to use PB Blaster on those nuts to loosen them up?

Thanks a bunch for any help.

Last edited by sioux90; Aug 25, 2012 at 12:20 PM.
Old Aug 26, 2012, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by sioux90
2003 Lancer ES

So, I am replacing my front exhaust manifold/catalytic converter and I got to the point of engine block threads. These things do not seem like they will come off easily, so I have a few questions:



1. Do I remove them just like an other nut? (Turning left)
2. I am planning to replace the nuts, they are really rusted, I will get regular anodized nuts, will that be alright?
3. Is it possible to (easily) remove the engine block threads without messing around with the block? I want to because they are really rusted as well. Do you guys know where I could find them? Or maybe is it better to use a "thread restoration" kit? (like this - link) Maybe use a wire brush on drill to remove the rust?
4. MOST IMPORTANT PART: do you guys think its safe to use PB Blaster on those nuts to loosen them up?

Thanks a bunch for any help.
This is normal for exhaust bolts and nuts to be this rusty on any rig. It is simply what happens with so much heating and cooling over and over. They are standard thread not reverse so yes lefty loosey. Spray some peneatration fluid on it and let it sit over night if you are concerned (PB Blaster will work fine I always have a couple cans lying around).

The only bolt that will give you guff is the one on the far left in your picture that is hidden behind the power steering bracket. there are several methods people have employed to break this one loose, there is a how to guide here I believe that shows a method or two for this.
Old Aug 27, 2012, 10:01 AM
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Oh my God................

That far left bolt was absolute hell to remove. I used a six point wrench underneath the 4 "pipes" and slipped the other end of the wrench into a 7/8 wrench six point end and pulled up like mad. Then had to do 1000 eighth turns to unscrew it fully.

Thanks for the info.

Originally Posted by 03lances
This is normal for exhaust bolts and nuts to be this rusty on any rig. It is simply what happens with so much heating and cooling over and over. They are standard thread not reverse so yes lefty loosey. Spray some peneatration fluid on it and let it sit over night if you are concerned (PB Blaster will work fine I always have a couple cans lying around).

The only bolt that will give you guff is the one on the far left in your picture that is hidden behind the power steering bracket. there are several methods people have employed to break this one loose, there is a how to guide here I believe that shows a method or two for this.
Old Jun 14, 2014, 03:11 AM
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Sorry to revive this from the dead, but once the hell bolt is broken loose use a gear wrench to zip the nut off, goes 10x quicker
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