Changing brake fluid
#1
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Location: North Central MA
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Bleeding the brakes is the exact same as bleeding the brakes on any other car. You own an OZ, so you don't have any ABS crap to worry about. Basically, it's a 2 man job... (could go as many as 4, or as few as 1... but that's a different post)
Start at the wheel furthest from the master cyclinder, (passenger rear) take off the wheel, and behind the brake assembly, you'll see a little screw (should be roundabout 8mm in size) It'll have a nipple on it, and a hole in the end. Usually covered with a little rubber cap. You'll want to be careful in turning the screw, because if you break it... (wait for it...) You're screwed. It's not an uber strong bolt... so be careful. A little PB Blaster goes a LONG way in this. Anyhoo, once you're sure it's free, and turns easily, you'll notice that it's leaking a bit of brake fluid from all your turning. Which is what its supposed to do... so you're on the right track. Take a little peice of hose, and put it on the end of the nipple, and run it into a cup/jar/whatever... just don't let the brake fluid come in contact with anything... it's nasty ****. The second person should be sitting in the car, ready for your signal. On your signal have them press the brake all the way to the floor, while you open the screw, and while they're pressing have them let you know how far it's going down... like 3...2...1... close... or similar. You'll want to close the bleeder screw before they bottom out. Then do it again... be sure to keep the Master cyclinder topped off with fluid, and bleed that brake till the fluid is new fluid.
Then move to the brake second furthest from the MC. (drivers rear)
Next would be Passenger front
then Driver front.
be sure to close the bleeder screw before they bottom out the brake pedal, or you risk air in the lines. To test, drive the car... SLOWLY, and press on the brakes. It should be a pretty solid pedal. Pumping the brake shouldn't affect stopping more than giving it a little pusling feel. If the first step is kinda soft, and the second one stops the car more quickly... bleed them again, you've got air in the lines.
It's not rocket science, but it's not something you really want to screw up, since it's a safety issue.
Questions: hit me up with a PM.
Start at the wheel furthest from the master cyclinder, (passenger rear) take off the wheel, and behind the brake assembly, you'll see a little screw (should be roundabout 8mm in size) It'll have a nipple on it, and a hole in the end. Usually covered with a little rubber cap. You'll want to be careful in turning the screw, because if you break it... (wait for it...) You're screwed. It's not an uber strong bolt... so be careful. A little PB Blaster goes a LONG way in this. Anyhoo, once you're sure it's free, and turns easily, you'll notice that it's leaking a bit of brake fluid from all your turning. Which is what its supposed to do... so you're on the right track. Take a little peice of hose, and put it on the end of the nipple, and run it into a cup/jar/whatever... just don't let the brake fluid come in contact with anything... it's nasty ****. The second person should be sitting in the car, ready for your signal. On your signal have them press the brake all the way to the floor, while you open the screw, and while they're pressing have them let you know how far it's going down... like 3...2...1... close... or similar. You'll want to close the bleeder screw before they bottom out. Then do it again... be sure to keep the Master cyclinder topped off with fluid, and bleed that brake till the fluid is new fluid.
Then move to the brake second furthest from the MC. (drivers rear)
Next would be Passenger front
then Driver front.
be sure to close the bleeder screw before they bottom out the brake pedal, or you risk air in the lines. To test, drive the car... SLOWLY, and press on the brakes. It should be a pretty solid pedal. Pumping the brake shouldn't affect stopping more than giving it a little pusling feel. If the first step is kinda soft, and the second one stops the car more quickly... bleed them again, you've got air in the lines.
It's not rocket science, but it's not something you really want to screw up, since it's a safety issue.
Questions: hit me up with a PM.
#4
Another way of doing this and eliminating the 2nd person, would be doing it with the use of a MityVac. Same steps, but use the vac to suck out the air and bring the fluid into the lines....all directions are included with the system and it is about 40-60 depending on where you buy it and which version you get. It is a useful tool and eliminates a lot if time and guessing. MityVac can also be used for testing vaccum lines and other stuff. Tool well worth the money for it's many uses.
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