Kainvorador

iTrader: (1)

I didn't see a bonafide write up for how to do this and could have used one before i started figuring it out.

Need two people.

It is imperative that you keep the fluid level full on the resevoir (located just behind the batter with a warning on the lid "Make sure you're using a DOT3 or DOT4 fluid" yada yada.) as you bleed the system. If it sucks in air, then you're just making the situation worse. THe small blue filter inside the resevoir is to filter the fluid to make sure you don't get dust or dirt in the resevoir. Leave it in place.

10mm for the clutch slave cylinder bleeder valve and brake calipur bleeder valve.
11mm for my clamps on my MAF clamps.
Flathead screwdriver for my air intake.

The slave cylinder is directly below the air intake. I was surprised at how easy it was to get to. You could do this from the top or the bottom, but I found it extremely easy to take the air intake and MAF housing off, and I had full access and plenty of room to dodge squirting clutch fluid.

1: Get someone to assist you.
2: Remove air intake.
3: Remove MAF housing.
4: Locate slave cylinder directly below the air intake. Has a hard line running into it with a bleeder valve (nipple) facing up toward you.
5: Remove rubber oring around the bleeder valve.
6: Have assistant pump the clutch a couple times and keep the clutch pressed in to the floor.
7: Open the bleeder valve. Hopefully nothing but fluid will come out, but make sure you close the valve before the fluid stops coming out. If air comes out(usually with bubbles as the air and fluid mix) then you definatly had air in the system.
8: Tighten bleeder.
9: Let the clutch out. Might have to pull the clutch out with your foot, this action will draw more fluid into the cylinder.
10: Repeat steps 6-9 until only fluid comes out.

Once finished, put the oring back on, reconnect the MAF housing and ar intake. Take the car for a test drive. If problem persists, repeat a couple times to move the fluid around, then bleed the cylinder again.

Should be bled by now and if you're still having problems such as a spongy clutch feel, then you might have a busted clutch line or something else might be wrong.


Brakes
1: Locate black bleeder valve nipple on brake calipur. Make sure the wheel spokes are aligned for access.
2:Pop the top of the black dust cover off the nipple.
3: Have assistant pump brakes a couple times and hold it in on the last pump.
4: Open bleeder valve. Fluid or air will come out. When fluid pressure slow, make sure to tighten the bleeder valve before it stops.
5: Have friend let off brake and then pump it a couple more times.
6: Repeat step 4.
7: Do this for all 4 brakes.


Congratulations, you're brakes and clutch slave cylinder have been bled.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

Can you use the power bleeder putting pressure on the reservoir to bleed the clutch?

barneyb

Yes

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

so I bled the clutch for what must have been the first time ever. TONS of air came out of the line, and I bled it until no air was coming through. Used the power bleeder.

Tightened it up and wrapped up and went to test the clutch pedal, and it's softer than it's ever been, with what feels like a half an inch of dead pedal up top - is this normal? Even if I left a tiny bit of air in the line, it has to be better than it was before, it was almost foamy at the top. Shouldn't it feel firmer?

barneyb

There is a divider in the reservoir in case you blow the clutch hose so you don't lose brakes. The reservoir needs to be full before bleeding the clutch.

Half an inch of dead pedal is normal. I meansured mine and its 1/2 inch exactly. What you feel beyond that will depend on how well things are lubricated and mostly the pressure plate. More pressure plate means more work for your left foot to do. Once the dead pedal is taken up it should feel the same full stroke. If the clutch is disengaging - no drag, and you can modulate it, sounds golden to me.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

yeah, i watched the clutch portion of the reservoir - and i see the fluid actually go down, then i close, and it rises again, i guess due to the pressure from the power bleeder. sounds fine then - i just expected it to be stiffer, not softer

as far as how much dead pedal i have, i'm assuming that is just a matter of adjustment. call me crazy but after bleeding now also the clutch started squeaking - never did that before

itsdecker

Having recently gotten my Evo, this is the first time I've ever felt the need to work on a car myself outside of the radio and speakers.

With that being said, the only thing I assume that needs to be done after both of these steps is topping off the fluid (probably self explanatory hence the omission). I've seen suggestions that it's generally good to do this before starting and throughout the bleeding process as well though. This way you don't introduce air into the lines in case fluids start running too low. Just curious what your take on this might be and if it also applies to the clutch.

barneyb

What you don't want to do is run the reservoir dry. When bleeding, continually adding is good. When replacing pads starting out with low fluid is good because when you push the pistons back into the calipers the reservoir will fill. Start out full and it overflows.

Realize that brake fluid is very hydroscopic. Remove the lid from a new bottle of fluid and it immediately starts sucking moisture out of the air. The same thing will happen when the lid is off of the reservoir. The drier the fluid, the better brakes you will have when used hard. It doesn't do any good to start off with expensive extra dry brake fluid if you expose it to air too long or work on a humid day.

I've seen where brake lines have rusted out from the inside. This occurs when fluid isn't flushed and much moisture has accumulated in the brake fluid.

Matz

iTrader: (3)

I haven't bled my brakes in years and will need to do it soon. Just ordered the new (yellow) ATE Super Blue from Amazon and will get it in there. However, I recall there being an optimal order of operations. I found that info and have attached it here, maybe it will be useful to someone.

See 35A-16 for the order.

4bangn

will this cure issues with getting into reverse or 1st from a stop, reverse is the worse, i feel like i'm going to break my shifter, that's how tough it is to get it into reverse sometimes, i've already adjusted by clutch pedal as far as i can, no more threads left for adjustment

kaj

iTrader: (60)

power bleeder = one of my favoritest tools EVER

4b11slayer

2 people.
10mm open end wrench
Oil catch

Pump,pump,pump,pump, hold.

Open bleeder x 5 times.

Right rear
Left rear
Right front
Left front

Clutch before or after sequence does not matter.

Pump 4 stay down on 5 until fluid is clear with no bubbles.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Actually, it's LR, RF, RR, LF. Outside nipple, then inside.


According to the service manual, anyway.

4b11slayer

Cant argue that, i havent read the manual but i use this standard on all makes.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

It's different than I've always done, that's for sure.