neilschelly

iTrader: (2)

So I just installed the Axxis pads from RRM and took a few pictures to show others how simple a service brake pad changes are. I'm assuming y'all know how to safely jack up your car and remove a wheel.

Here's the first picture, which is essentially the wheel hub, disc, and rotor after taking off the wheel. The important part to notice here is that there are two big bolts on the top (??mm) and bottom (14mm) of the caliper. Unbolt the bottom one and continue to the next picture.

neilschelly

iTrader: (2)

After releasing the bottom bolt, the caliper will swing up like shown here. The pads themselves are clipped to the stationary part of the caliper and can be readily popped out now.

neilschelly

iTrader: (2)

So here's the same picture again with the old pads removed. And they'll likely come separated from their backplates while doing this. Each pad has a clip at its top and bottom to hold it to the stationary part of the caliper and also to keep the pad from bouncing around too much inside the caliper. Don't lose these, but if you happen to, it's probably not the end of the world. I imagine you'll get some squeaking though.

neilschelly

iTrader: (2)

Now, you see the new pads in place of the old ones, just clipped into the same spots. It took a bit of maneuvering work to get them into the clips, but it's not too hard.

More importantly, at this stage you'll notice you can't get the caliper to swing back into place and the fault lies with the piston. The large round hole in the back of the caliper is easily visible in this pic and that's the piston. You have to push this back flush against the caliper again, but don't expect it to move quickly. You can buy/borrow a caliper spreader to make things easier, you can use the old pads and a crowbar if that suits you. Personally, I just push the old pad against it with my hands until it's flush, but I suspect some people won't be able to do that - no offense.

neilschelly

iTrader: (2)

Once the caliper's piston is pushed back, you'll be able to fit the caliper back in place over the pads - it should be a tight fit, but it'll get on there. Before putting it all back together though, use some brake lube, available in tiny packets for $1 or so at any automotive store, and coat the outside of the pads with it. DO NOT get lube on your pads' friction surfaces or the rotor, for obvious reasons. The lube is just used to prevent noise from the pad moving around in the caliper itself.

One note to be careful of is that while I was pushing the caliper back into place around the pads, the back plate on one of the pads broke free of the pad. It's just glued on there really, and not too strongly, so just make sure if that happens to you that you position it correctly back in place before closing the caliper.

neilschelly

iTrader: (2)

Final step is to put back the bolt you took out at the beginning. It had a small black rubber tube it went through which may need to be coerced between the stationary and swinging parts of the caliper again, but again, it's not tough. Tighten that bolt and replace the wheel and you're done.

Get into the car and pump the brakes a bit. This willl help make sure the brake system is properly pressurized and the calipers are floating in the right place. You may find your new pads are a bit weak at first. Bed them in slowly by repeatedly stopping from 30MPH tops until they feel better. Don't slam them and don't overheat them - just gently work them in a bit for a few minutes and they should feel nice and strong again.

This process is probably not much different on any Lancer, Evo, Ralliart, or any other car for that matter with disc brakes.

Hope someone enjoyed reading this far ;-)
-N

LancerEvoMR

Discuss thread here