06_RALLI///ART

iTrader: (2)

Ok, so I have the S&S package and im upgrading my sub/amp
im keeping the factory deck and amp and im just going to use the existing sub wire to run into the speaker level inputs on the amp.

1st question: what would be the best place to tap in the REM wire to the amp?
Back of the deck?Ignition?or factory amp?
i figure the easiest place would be the factory amp because it needs it too right?

2nd question: How easy and accessible is the factory amp? ie: wiring hookups into it?...is it mounted like an aftermarket amp with the screw plates or is it all hard wired in?

if anyone has any pics of the factory amp that would be great as well. that way i dont have to rip my seat out just to figure out it wont work....lol

any help would be greatly appreciated!

DangerousDan

iTrader: (8)

it's got a wiring harness just like all other electronics on the car. the screw plates are strictly for aftermarket in my experience.

speaker level inputs will give less sound quality than rca's.

1.) it depends on where your putting your amp.

2.) factory amp is under the drivers seat, two bolts two nuts for the seat. the amp is mounted onto a bracket, four screws IIRC. one or two harnesses (been awhile) plug into the amp, as well as the din cable. I believe the remote turn on wire is in the din cable, so that's probably going to be the least accessible option for you. you'll have to probe the wires to find out which go to the sub, it's been way too long for me to help.

06_RALLI///ART

iTrader: (2)

yeah i know where the factory amp is.
my buddy just ordered a LOC so the speaker level input section is taken care of.

my question now is can i tap into the stock amp with the REM so i dont have to go all the way to the ignition....my aftermarket amp will be in the trunk.

thanks again,

fkdrcrs

IMO, id just trash the stock amp and just go with the aftermarket amp. what wire do you have to run to your ignition? ive run a couple sub setups and ive never had to mess with the ignition at all. maybe im a little too drunk.

06_RALLI///ART

iTrader: (2)

^^you must be drunk!....the REM wire that tells your amp when to turn on and off....so i need to tap it into a 12V source to do so....what kind of magical amp do you have that doesnt need this?....i know there is a few amps that will recognize when to turn on and off just from the aux cable signal or something but using a LOC ive heard that they dont work for some reason.

and no im not scraping the factory amp....im keeping the factory deck so i kinda need it.

Red Dragon

iTrader: (17)

First of all i would suggest getting an aftermarket cd player it will make things easier. You could just tap it off the harness from the cd player.

If you really want to keep the factory cd player. you can tap the remote wire off the factory amp. good luck finding the wire you need. Using the existing sub wire to run into the speaker level inputs on the amp will give you very bad quality. you can get speaker wire to rca cable conversion so you can plug into your amp. I believe JL audio make it.

06_RALLI///ART

iTrader: (2)

yeah i definitely want to keep the stock unit for now so I can still use the 6 disc.

I now have a LOC to make the speaker wire->RCA....here is my next question.....

can I use the existing sub wire for the LOC....or doest it have to be some sort of high level to work?.ie. rear speakers....

Sweet! i was hoping I could use the existing amp for the remote wire.....but witch wire?

is there a wiring diagram for it kickin around?

thanks again guys!

DangerousDan

iTrader: (8)

you need a multimeter, test which wire to use on the harness. the ACC wire will be off when the key is on, and on when the key is in either on position (ACC or ON)

LOC will lower your sound quality, that's what we are trying to tell you. also, some amps can sense incoming signals and turn themselves on. LOC or line level doesn't matter for this purpose IIRC. you are better off with a remote wire though.

you should be able to use your sub output for your LOC, but again you will lose sound quality, more so because you are using a limited amount of the signal coming off the line level sub output.

It will work the way you have it going in your mind, but it's not even close to ideal.

06_RALLI///ART

iTrader: (2)

yeah i understand its not going to be to its full potential....but it will be better than it is now...lol

no when you say im going to have limited signal, do you mean from the sub wire, or just the LOC in general?

would you suggest rear speakers or sub wire for the LOC?

and factory amp or ignition for the REM?

is there a wiring diagram for the dash wires? or a DIY for dash removal?

thanks for the quick responses Dan!

thanks,

06_RALLI///ART

iTrader: (2)

scratch the dash removal...got er' figured out....

but does anyone know what wires do what on the factory amp?

any help would be great guys!

DangerousDan

iTrader: (8)

see comments in red.

06_RALLI///ART

iTrader: (2)

I see what you are saying now with the sub wire, it wont be high level at all so the LOC might not pick up a signal right?...cool so I will use the rear speakers for the LOC

now the only thing stopping me from putting this in is the REM wire.....you think it might be a good idea to run it right to the fuse box? and tap off the stereo fuse?...to my knowledge the REM requires very little power, its mainly just a signal for the amp right?...

thanks a lot Dan...

DangerousDan

iTrader: (8)

no, you have misunderstood. the LOC takes a speaker level signal and converts it to a line level signal. If your speaker level input has been filtered (the sub output on the amp should be restricted to low frequencies) so will the LOC output. the signal you get out is the same you get in minus any degradation the circuitry puts in it. the sub is low frequency and the deck speakers should be full range. using the subs output for you LOC will put a filter on it before it gets to your aftermarket amp (which has it's own filters) and could limit the frequencies you get out of your new setup to those of the factory system.

simply put, the 8" sub that comes factory simply can't handle the same range your aftermarket sub can, so the factory amp should have crossovers built in to keep the sub operating within that range. you don't want to restrict your aftermarket sub with the same crossovers.

you can use any wire you like that does not have power when the key is off. your amp should give you an idea of what limits the signal has to meet, but generally speaking any 12volt source is acceptable. obviously you should not tap into your engines systems for this wire, but things like wipers are open game. I would suggest getting a multimeter and testing the wires on the factory amp to find out which one is switched. I have a feeling it's in the din cable though, so you may end up behind the radio.

the only difference between using the radio instead of the wipers is the amp will be on only when the radio is on instead of any time your key is on. also, be sure if you are messing inside the fuse box that that part of the circuit isn't live all the time, some of the circuitry for the car is pretty complex and you radio fuse may be one that is constantly powered.

cangriracing

iTrader: (5)

I just strip the end of the remote wire and cram it in to one of the fuses that is in the fuse box below the steering wheel

06_RALLI///ART

iTrader: (2)

cool!...thanks for the clarification dan! .....yeah im thinking the din cable is gonna have that in it....and the open wires from the harness are the speaker wire.

what do you think about just running the REM from the battery and just putting it on a toggle switch? i've done it before on another car of mine, i just have to remember to turn it off...lol