Richie's Thread
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
From: Tyngsboro, MA
My .02 :)
Okay, well I finally got my RRM header installed, and there are a few things I think I should touch upon for anyone who plans on installing these themselves.
1) Make sure you have all needed tools(Ratchet, Extension, Necessary sockets)
2) Be certain you have the bolts that connect the bottom of the header to the downpipe. People on here will tell you that you can use the stock bolts used to connect the stock exhaust manifold. THIS IS NOT TRUE, there are no stock bolts, they are just threaded studs.
3) From underneath the car, THERE ARE: TWO 19mm nuts you must remove, in which connect the stock exhaust manifold to DP(first picture below) and one 14mm nut that connects the manifold to some bracket.
4) From under the hood, THERE ARE: SEVEN 12mm nuts you must remove, and TWO 14mm nuts(on the bottom left and right). So there are a total of NINE nuts... unlike the rumor of 8 on these forums.
5) Make sure you have some means of bolting/unbolting the o2 sensor. I bought an o2 sensor remover at autozone for 9-10$. The one I bought fit on the end of a 1/2 inch ratchet, and there is a small slit for the wires to fit through(works great, and wont strip the head). Also, remember to unscrew the bracket that the o2 sensor connector is bolted to, so when you are unscrewing the o2 sensor the wires wont twist and possibly become damaged.
6) Double check EVERYTHING, and make sure every nut is tightened properly, so you don't have exhaust leaks. If you made sure everything is tightened, and you have a small leak, this might mean you need to replace the gaskets(which I did not have to do), although I plan on it in a week or so, and is generally a smart thing to do.
Extra tips: DW40 on all nuts and bolts before working. Also, when trying to remove the 19mm nuts from under the car, it is VERY useful to have a 6" extension with a 1/2 inch rachet. I had a friend hold the rachet on the nut. The 6" extension reached well under the car, so I could then take a 5ft long pipe, place it over the ratchet's handle, and use it as leverage to loosen the bolts.
If you have any questions about the workspace I used, I did all my work right there(in the second picture), with my two front wheels on those 2" tall brick things. There is a shot of the pipe I used for leverage on the left side of the pic
.
I hoped this helped.
-Richie
1) Make sure you have all needed tools(Ratchet, Extension, Necessary sockets)
2) Be certain you have the bolts that connect the bottom of the header to the downpipe. People on here will tell you that you can use the stock bolts used to connect the stock exhaust manifold. THIS IS NOT TRUE, there are no stock bolts, they are just threaded studs.
3) From underneath the car, THERE ARE: TWO 19mm nuts you must remove, in which connect the stock exhaust manifold to DP(first picture below) and one 14mm nut that connects the manifold to some bracket.
4) From under the hood, THERE ARE: SEVEN 12mm nuts you must remove, and TWO 14mm nuts(on the bottom left and right). So there are a total of NINE nuts... unlike the rumor of 8 on these forums.
5) Make sure you have some means of bolting/unbolting the o2 sensor. I bought an o2 sensor remover at autozone for 9-10$. The one I bought fit on the end of a 1/2 inch ratchet, and there is a small slit for the wires to fit through(works great, and wont strip the head). Also, remember to unscrew the bracket that the o2 sensor connector is bolted to, so when you are unscrewing the o2 sensor the wires wont twist and possibly become damaged.
6) Double check EVERYTHING, and make sure every nut is tightened properly, so you don't have exhaust leaks. If you made sure everything is tightened, and you have a small leak, this might mean you need to replace the gaskets(which I did not have to do), although I plan on it in a week or so, and is generally a smart thing to do.
Extra tips: DW40 on all nuts and bolts before working. Also, when trying to remove the 19mm nuts from under the car, it is VERY useful to have a 6" extension with a 1/2 inch rachet. I had a friend hold the rachet on the nut. The 6" extension reached well under the car, so I could then take a 5ft long pipe, place it over the ratchet's handle, and use it as leverage to loosen the bolts.
If you have any questions about the workspace I used, I did all my work right there(in the second picture), with my two front wheels on those 2" tall brick things. There is a shot of the pipe I used for leverage on the left side of the pic
.I hoped this helped.
-Richie
Last edited by TeamFlare; May 1, 2005 at 08:25 AM.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
From: Tyngsboro, MA
Originally Posted by 03RallyLancer
i hope u didnt get under it while it was sitting on those bricks...
ALWAYS use stands when working under a car!
ALWAYS use stands when working under a car!
I can lay under my car without a problem, that was just to give me an extra two inches or so to move my arms.
Spend a few bucks and buy some ramps lol, I would never get under a car sitting on bricks
How does the header feel? More high end power?
Good luck with the rest of your installs, car should be pretty kickass in the near future
How does the header feel? More high end power?
Good luck with the rest of your installs, car should be pretty kickass in the near future
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