How easy is the headers to install? all I do is unscrew the bolts and bolt the headers on and connect the downpipe right?

thanks

 

Basically. The only problem is the lower left bolt and just to let you know before the rest of the people on this forum slaughter you. You can use the "search" function to find this topic and since I didn't explain to you which methods are out there. Use the search function and practice on your first topic. Enjoy your headers.

 

ahhhhhhhhhhh, it sounds easier than it is. tell you what, start with the lower left nut. then come back and tell us how easy it was,lol. but seriously, do a search. not trying to be a smartass but ALOT has been written on this subject, check it out. DAMN, beat me to it!

 

I did 3 header so far and the best way to get that s@#ker off is to splice it open. The rope thing didn't work out to well for me. The last time I worked on the header it took me not even 2 minutes to get that bolt off. The stock bolts are made of copper. Really soft so really easy to splice open with a wood cisor. Just make sure you don't damage the stud thread.

 

What do you mean splice open?

Fox

 

Cut the nut in half(on the length), then seperate both 1/2 with a flat head screw driver. So you put the wood cisor on the nut, you bang on it till you're almost at the stud thread, then take the flat head and open it. It will come right off, and it will take you a few minutes.

 

i just took off the the blet cover and bent the picec of metal....was easy...no need for cutting it off

 

I'm still confused.....
You used a "wood cisor" to cut through one of the faces of the nut? And then you used a flat head screwdriver to pry it off.... right? What's a wood cisor? Is it some kind of chisel?
how do you get a nut on there to keep from getting a leak?


For reference, I used a dremel and sanding cylinders (a LOT of sanding cylinders) to grind away a portion of the aluminum on the AC complressor bracket. use WD40 to lubricate the cylinder to prevent buildup and to reduce heat (which will make the aluminum softer and more prone to building up on the cylinder). now everytime I have to take the header off, I just use the long socket with a swivel to take it off.

 

Are we talking about the RRM header here..? I am supposed to receive mine early next week. I ordered it from RRM just a few days ago. Looks like I'll be lubing up those bolts extra good before I take them off.

 

A chisel... that's it.

Once you install the after-market header, you just slap a brand new nut on it. A steel nut, avoid that copper crap

No matter which one you get, you still have to take the stocker out of there.

 

Remove the timing cover and bend back the thin piece of metal. Easy easy. Plus you can keep your hardware. Funny idea to cut it off!! That dang nut is soo frustrating with the rope trick!! Show that nut, say F**k it and cut it off!! hahaha!!I like that!!

 

I started a thread on this very topic and the rope with the wrench worked for me. No cutting, chiseling, grinding, bending, prying anything. Just got the rachet wrench on there, tied a rope to the other end and let physics do the rest. Came off in no time.

 

Hey can you explain exactly how to use the rope method? do I get the wrench on the nut than tie a rope to the end of the wrench??

 

Check out this thread. It has a little picture and instructions:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=93533

 

After a few Stock header removal... hell yeah Not even 5 minutes and you're done