Ver 1.5 with more mechanic friendly attachments (clips instead of sheetmetal screws), and 3/8" thickness instead of 3/4" is in the works.

It is made from 3/4" plywood, sanded and sealed with Kilz Premium exterior. The same high temp blue as was used on the engine and strut brace was used all over the top. Two coats all over, and additional two coats on the part that stuck out from the bumper. Four clearcoats on this part as well. The bottom part only has blue overspray around the edge.

The splitter's held to the fender with 9 sheetmetal screws. The plastic fender is reinforced with sheetmetal. All of the plastic crap from underneath is removed, and the rear of the splitter (the bellypan portion) is bolted to the transmission skip plate.
This splitter also acts as a bellypan (replacing all of that plastic) to protect everything forward of the downpipe. I left 3/4" between the downpipe and splitter, so as not to catch it on fire. In theory it also keeps air under the car moving more smoothly than the baffled plastic parts.
For the bracket, a simple piece of 1/4" thick X 1" X 3" steel is used. The bracket is on the underside of both tranny skidplate and bellypan. The 1-1/4" bolts are held with washers and lockwashers on either side.
The front is held by two steel braces, made from 1/4" round steel. The ends are bolted to the grill mesh using the same method as was used on the tranny bracket. The braces loop around the front of the splitter.

Parts of the bellypan had to be cut out to accomodate the front jack point and that hook. Also a hole for the tow hook was cut out (see yellow arrow on splitter).

Will it stay on? Yes, I can put enough force on it to shake the car.
Top speed thus far: 120.
Difference? You bet! This car was on rails before, now it's just ridiculous. Several turns that I normally take would previously make the tires squeal at around 40MPH. Now I take them at 60 with little more than a chirp.


Problems: So far the main problem is that I can't use my floor jack on the front anymore, I have to jack from the sides.
It also scrapes some (no noticeable damage) and I can't pull all the way in to a parking spot that has a cement burm.

 

lookin good

 

Looks mighty nice from that pic, good job.

 

wow cool... more pics would be nice

 

why not drive down to philly and make me one while you're at it...
Looks sweet though, keep it up!

 

pretty sweet canard..lets hope it doesent fall off on the highway! lol. way to be original

 

I'll be taking lots more pics for the ver 1.5. Thanks for all the support!! 02izzel: it didn't come off at 120, and I've banged it on a couple of curbs, so I'm sure it's on there

 

whats the point of a splitter

 

That looks like the splitter they made in SCC. The blue is nice though.

 

This splitter also acts as a bellypan (replacing all of that plastic) to protect everything forward of the downpipe. I left 3/4" between the downpipe and splitter, so as not to catch it on fire. In theory it also keeps air under the car moving more smoothly than the baffled plastic parts.


sorry didnt see this

 

OZevoVII: you're the other subscriber, huh? Actually, yes, it is the same idea and design as the one from SCC.

qaz003: It helps with downforce on the front of the car as well as radiator cooling. The dead bug pattern on the bumper, compared to that of my neighbor's OZ, would indicate that air is being forced up into that grill mesh more efficiently. Not very scientific, but it also feels pretty damned tight in the straights and turns.

 

How hard is it to take off and put back on? Just in case you want to work underneath the engine and all.

 

That's why ver 1.5 is in the works. Right now, with screws being the primary fastener, I haven't even tried to take it off for fear that it will be too much of a pain in the ***. And who knows how easily it will go back on.
ver 1.5 will use clips to hold it in place and the bracketry will actually secure it to the vehicle. I'm confident that that setup will work just as well, if not better.

 

Sounds good, keep us updated.