I don't remember exactly...but I know the cusco & the carbing cost around $200 or more ...
spr is around $150 or more...
alutec & summit is around 100 or so...
that's the price I got about 7 or 8 months ago....so need to check...& I don't even remember where I got the price from...

i'm sure we've seen these pics from rrm's site.

crappy:





good:




scruffy guy and pack of smokes not included

i have the pdxralliart deisgn bars. they are awesome!

I have alutec for the front & summit for the rear in my mirage now, I also have the summit trunk bar too but I haven't put them on
*** I used to have the cheap one on but it crack on the side for about 9 months so I replaced with these

here is the pic of them




here is the pic of the engine bay will take better pic later

but the greddy evo is


go with PDX strut bars, they are a great product and your supporting one of the guys here that crafts it for us!

support the folks that make em for you!!!

the link for the PDX bars is in my sig right here

I totally agree. I can't wait to get my rear strut bar and my tie bar from him.

Fox

How does a strut bar work?
Imagine the forces that are exerted on tires as a car corners. If you are turning to the left, the car is leaning to the right (opposing force + right) which would make the outside tire grip and cause the outside strut to bend and lean in that direction. The inside strut, however, isn't under much of a load because its tire is coming off the ground (in some cases literally) and isn't gripping the ground, so it doesn't lean. Because of this, the distance between the tops of the struts increase because one is leaning away from the other.

OK that's great, but where does the strut bar come in?
Well, the strut bar is solid and holds pretty much the same length (tensile strength I believe) and since it attaches to the tops of the struts (the parts that are trying to lean away from each other) it keeps them from leaning.

So how does all that crap affect the traction?
By keeping the outside strut from leaning, it keeps the tire from leaning onto its side. In essence, it maintains the car's original camber (alignment), which allows it to keep more of the tread of the tire on the ground, thus giving it the best grip.

This also explains my position that the sway bar is more important than the strut bar. But they both help to maintain the best tire traction possible (that and heavier shocks and springs)

Any questions?

edit: Oh and the reason you missed the other posts on this is because you had the word "help" in your search. I don't think any of our previous threads had the word help in it. That and they are in the suspension forum, where I just moved this one to.

don't buy that one, go to either rrm, or rdd (aka, pdx)

thanks for the awesome pics, greenpsycho. Thpse pics clearly showed us how useless the cheapo strut bars are.
And thanks urbanknight on the detailed info.... i guess i'll save up and maybe get one of those "non-brand name" ones that work still fine

I got a strut brace from freedom designs, the so called cheaply made design but ya know what I will wip through corners at high speeds with no problem, get no rubbing on my intake manifold, I guess its just personal preference they all do the same and just to let you know those solid ones do flex aka twist when turning so they end up doing the same thing pretty much anyways

Yeah, the one in the pic where Rob is standing on it and it's bending... that'sa Freedom Design one. But you're right, since they work on tension, how much it bends under a verticle load isn't as important as some may think. However, my Freedom design one made popping sounds and pulled out of the threads when I went around a hard corner. But that's an autocross corner that's really sharp, taken sideways, and on really sticky tires. So if you're just cruising or driving at say 90%, you won't notice it.

Yeah I beat my car but not that much corners here in pa are sharp but dam they arent that bad

how much are they?

Depends on which one you get, just look around.