it took me probably 8 hours or so doing it by myself. of course i had to take 2 breaks: one to run out and buy an electric impact wrench, the other to run out and get spring compressors (didn't think i would need either, but you really REALLY do)

 

not if he's getting the basic dampers. The coils will just slide over the damper and the top plate bolts down on that- no compression needed. He doesn't need to take the old stuff apart, either since he's getting new mounting plates. That'll be a time saver, too.

 

ahh, too true. i had to reuse my mounting plates, which recquired the impact wrench and spring compressor

 

i just picked up my tein coilovers and had just one question...do i need to set the space gap(30mm) before putting it in the car? or do i adjust it afterwards when they are on? as they come in box, there is no set gap yet

 

Adjust it on the car. Best way. Adjust it and let the car down, see how it sits.

 

I just finished the install of an Eibach Pro-Kit set of springs on my '03 OZ-Rally. Fronts were definitely super easy and straightforward. 2 bolts off the bottom of the strut assembly, release the brake line clip, 3 bolts off to top of the mount inside the engine bay and BAM.. full assembly is out. For safety sakes, I used spring compressors.. and there seemed to be a lot of tension on the springs so I'd be hesitant about doing it without them.

Just a tip for the rear springs is what I'm posting about really though. I found that it's really important to work on both sides at the same time when doing these, and you're able to do it without releasing the sway bar. Release the control arm screw, then the bottom strut mount screw for each side. Then get the lining out of your trunk as described and release 2 bolts for each strut mount. Use your foot or a small pry-bar to push down on the control arm of each side and the assemblies will come right out. If you do not have both sides loose at the same time, the tension of the sway bar will make it super-hard to do it this way.

Once you have the springs swapped, reverse the process. Reinsert the assembly up into the mount and loosely bolt them there (might need someone to hold the assembly up for you to get them on), then attach the bolt for the bottom of the strut. In order to line up the control arms with the mounting position again, I used a floor jack under the control arm to edge it up and a hammer to do any fine-tuning of the position in order to reinsert the bolts.

Re-tighten and you're set.. I did the install myself without looking at this DIY, so it's not THAT hard. You just gotta have access to the tools.

 

When installing coilovers on all 4 corners do I need to worry about new strut mounts?

If so what is a good place to buy them since I can't seem to find them at the local parts store

 

The ones you have should be fine.. but being a 2002 the top bolts may take a little persuasion to release. As well, you'll need a set of spring compressors to disassemble the assemblies safely. Inspect the mounts for corrosion, dry rotted rubber, etc.. You can then make the call on if you need new ones or not. Try to stick with the dealership when possible for new parts unless they're outrageously priced.

 

Thanks for info man but I think I'll just go ahead and order it all new since upgrade suspension parts cause this pre-existing parts to wear much faster.

I'll need 4 strut mounts (2 front and 2 rear). Probably also do the control arms as well. The sway bar linkage has already been upgraded so I should be good on that one. I am going to try to find some poly urethane bushings for the control arm.

Is the control arm and ball join one piece or 2 pieces?

 

I'm about to purchase some Tein basics for my 03' ES, is it necessary/needed to get some new camber plates from tein, and/or Camber Bolt Kit from RRM as well... I just want to make sure I have all the necessary components before my cousin and I spend our Saturday installing the kit then realizing I needed an extra component to the suspension. Ohh and any other suggestions on where to purchase the Coilovers... It was reccommended in another thread to get them here http://www.3n1motorsports.com/catalog/ as they are only $774.

 

It's not "necessary" and there doesn't even need to be any adjustment to the camber. If you're concerned about tire wear, it's toe that rubs tires away, not camber. Toe is adjusted with the threaded rod at the back of the control arms.

If you ARE considering that you'll need camber adjsutments, i.e. you're racing autocross or some such, then I highly recommend the tein camber plates (part# PAR52-31PFR). But otherwise it's just for show. The camber bolts are too hard to get a fine adjustment on, other than "full camber" which works out to about -1.7deg if you have two adjustable bolts on each strut.

 

Definitely not planning on doing any autocross. I just want a good reliable suspension for street use. I mentioned coilovers to my buddy who has an STI and he thought I would need camber plates, obviously he knows nothing about Lancers. Ok, so I don't really need the camber plates and I don't need the RRM camber kit (which is just bolts). Should I look into maybe getting a Rear anti-sway bar? RRM has the sway bar & autocross perches combo. Or will the coilovers solve my suspension issue, I just want a good ride.

I have Ground Control coilover sleeves now and I'm thoroughly disappointed. I've been told to get either K-Sports or Tein Basics. I just think Tein might be the way to go. Right now besides the sleeves I have an RRM front strut (suspension-wise). I appreciate the help as I'm eager to buy something real soon before I make a drive down to San Diego from NorCal.

 

As a guy who races and who fabricated a full set of bars and had a RRM front strut tower brace.... they're really pretty worthless on a lancer. It all has to do with where your struts are located in relation to the firewall and ours are about the closest I've seen. you're not going to flex the firewall in many circumstances that don't result in a totaled car The same is true for rear strut towers. Rear lower tie bars tended to make my car's rear end want to slide out during cornering or to do the full 180 if I was cornering at speeds over 55MPH. Both are not good things.

Rear sways will firm up the roll in the rear. Some have said that just upgrading the perches will do the same as the full bar/perch combo if you're just driving surface streets. I would recommend the combo for performance oriented driving though.

I'd recommend scanning the rest of this forum (suspension related) for threads about suspension setups because what I consider a "good ride", what you consider a "good ride" and what someone else considers a "good ride" will all differ.

 

i cant seem to get the front struts disassembled. the nut is inside that hole and you have to hold the threaded part still.. i'm having a hard time removing it with the tools i have.. anyone use something i'm not..

 

Rent an impact wrench. It'll come off in about 1 second. Just make sure you point it away from yourself, since the system is under pressure.