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No write-ups? thought this would be common.

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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 05:40 PM
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Namore8121's Avatar
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No write-ups? thought this would be common.

As I’ve been driving over the last few weeks I’ve noticed a shimmy when I brake, ah yes the warped rotor thing, but my rotors are flawless as are my pads and it’s not every time I brake. Then this past week I noticed when I backed out of my parking space (reverse and back out to the left, no throttle) I’ve heard a popping. I would describe it as the tire loosing traction but the ground is dry. Later that day I decided to pull my car into the garage and rotate my tires and check things out. To my knowledge to check wheel bearings you can just man handle the wheel while it’s on the car and tell if there is any looseness, and there wasn’t. What grabbed my attention was when I torque the lug nuts the wheel would pop in and out of its original position, not like rocking back and forth against the park gear but actually popping. Is this the CV joint going bad on me? Is there an existing write up I haven’t found about this? This is all on the front of course.
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 05:54 PM
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i would say the cv axle or the hub thats just one of them thing you gotta start tearin in to stuff to see
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 05:57 PM
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oh the shimmy could be the tierods or alignment. it can also be the pads even though you say their good pull em out and check the wear pattern
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 06:30 PM
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Thanks, alignment has been check and is good, also I had pulled the pads when I did the rotate and they looked good. I had the timing belt changed and put new tie rod ends last month so those are good... probably just the cv, what’s my price range of hand?
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Old Oct 1, 2011 | 02:10 PM
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well i have used ones if you want to go that route or new it could be $100ea+ maybe
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Old Oct 1, 2011 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by lil' jeff
well i have used ones if you want to go that route or new it could be $100ea+ maybe
rockauto.com has them for 45$+
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 07:09 PM
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thanks guys, depending on if I'm rushed or not i'll do a write up with pictures.
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 08:44 AM
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I am having the hardest time trying to install the driver side axle, I checked and made sure the axles were the same and I can fit the axle splines into the tranny, but only up to the circlip. I can't seem to get it past the circlip, I have gone as far as to "tap" it with a 3lb mini sledge but I am afraid to damage my new axle if I hit it harder. Any pro tips? I read online somewhere that the circlip should be opened down (on a honda) is this true for our car as well? I tried that in many variations and it still wont go it. I have been trying to install this axle for 4 hours and I am getting desperate.

e: also, would it be ok to try heating the circlip (while still on the trans side of the axle) with a torch to try and soften it so it will "squeeze" in hopefully? any quick replys are greatly appreciated lol.

Last edited by eusgen; Dec 19, 2011 at 08:51 AM.
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 09:18 AM
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get some sticky grease and put that on the circlip to hold it in place so it sticks out evenly all the way around, and then yeah you just hit it harder...lol, the grease trick should make it easier though..
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 10:15 AM
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Having the circlip face down worked, gave it a good spank with the sledge and it went in, so happy that dilemma is over.

I had to cut the axle nut off with a dremel because it was stuck on the axle, broke 3 wrenches trying to get it off lol.
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 11:38 AM
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penetrating oil, and impact usually works...i had my impact on one of mine for like a minute and a half before it finally gave...
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