Hello Guys,

I am about 3k over the severed 30k maintenance schedule and i just got my oil filter and engine oil changed (Free), tires rotated.

My car isn't under the severe maintenance schedule but the dealership service people always follow the severe maint. schedule.
The dealer estimated the service cost close to $500.



I can knock out the basic checking stuff and replacing air cleaner filter and replace air purifier filter. I don't need to change Transfer oil and rear axle oil since i do not have AWD.

So i really don't get what is the price so high... Some people don't recommend changing transmission fluid without MUT 3 , is this neccessary?
I also couldn't find the manufacture Dia Queen CVTF-J1 fluid, the replacement i found is ENEOS CVT fluid and it cost about $10/quart. I will need 7 of those, plus a new gasket. What else do i need?

I'm not in a rush to change this as the ATF color is the same as the new engine oil.

Thanks in advance!

 

I personally wouldn't follow that, its like a big visual inspection. Not worth 500$. Your warranty won't be void if you don't get it done.
I doubt you need new brake pads at this time.
I use the eneos fluid, its high quality and won't void you warranty. Its what my dealership sells. Buy the fluid and change it yourself, or bring the fluid to a shop and have them do it. Shouldn't cost more than 50$ to have a drain and fill done.
For the valve adjustment, if you have the 2.4 like me, I've been told it never needs to be done (engine 4b12). Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

You are right, the engine is the same. I was worried that if i don't use the recommended brand then it would void my warranty.
Anyways, i did the road trip and drove 1200 miles in 4 days. The ATF fluid is still the same color, everything fluid level is still at the same level. My next concern would be the tires..i only it's only 3 years, but they have cracks already 5 threads left on the back tires. I do apply tire coat to protect them from cracking on the side of the tires.

These Dunlop low profile tires are dissemination.. i have only driven 33k miles on them since i bought the car in 2009 May.

 

Yeah i think i went through my first set of tires in less than 30k.
Im at 85k. Including the tires that came on the car, I'm on my 3rd set of tires, plus one set of winter tires. Then again I don't rotate my tires very often, and it shows!

 

What brand did you go with? Do you have to go with Dunlop or Yokohama again? And what did you pay for the whole set? It would be nice if they would flip flop the inside tire to the outside.

 

Cant remember what tires came on the car. When i buy new tires I just get whatever they have for cheep, as it seems I'm good at either driving over nails or hitting curbs and putting bulges in the tires. High speeds in hot mountain roads doesn't help tire life either.
You say "flip flop the inside tire to the outside"? Maybe if the tires were not directional.

 

Your car alignment was fine and no vibration when you use the cheapest tires? I know in the old days, they would change the tires from inside to outside and they would do it without machine...simply use a crowbar to yank it out but it is a pain in the ***.. like you said, not all tires can be done this way.

 

When i say cheep tires i mean like 500$ for the set of 4, thats cheep to me.
Yeah alignment is always good, never vibrations. After they put the tire on they put the wheel on a balancing machine.
Cheep tires just usually don't last as long, or they may not have the best traction.

 

Adding more info on this thread, i got a letter from the service dealership and the recommended me to get Transmission service, fuel system service and throttle body service done since i didn't do it last time.

 

The throttle body service would be an easy one to do yourself, remove the throttle body and spray with carb clean and use pressurized air to blow dry. If you don't have fuel economy issues, then leave the injector service. But transmission I would get done. I don't have a cvt, but any auto trans is very important to keep the fluid clean and new, just like an eng oil change. Its the life blood of your transmission.

The recommended procedure from the factory manual is

1. Drain fluid
2. Fill fluid (approx 6.3 Quarts)
3. Start eng and idle for 1-2 mins
4. Move gear selector through all gears
5. Stop engine and repeat steps 1-4
6. Remove drain plug and allow a little to drain, If it is still dirty oil, repeat the steps again.

You can do that pretty easy, getting the oil is the most expensive part. You are looking at least 12 L

 

Thanks for the tips!!