Manual transmission to block torque specs?
Manual transmission to block torque specs?
I successfully removed and reinstalled the transmission but I am able to only find one torque spec for one of the top mounting bolts of the trans; torque spec says 36 foot pounds. I assume this means they are all supposed to be 36 foot pounds because I can't find any torque specs for the rest..
Got another problem... when I had the transmission out, and almost bolted up but still loose, I was able to turn the crank with ease. However once we tightened up the transmission bolts it made the crank unable to turn by hand, at least with ease as I wasnt trying to break anything else. We tried to start the car after we installed everything and the starter turns the flywheel a few teeth and sounds pretty awful when it does it (it only turns it once, not the usual starter sound you hear multiple times). Car will not start
... any ideas? clutch seems to be working fine we bled it and we can move gears, etc.
... any ideas? clutch seems to be working fine we bled it and we can move gears, etc.
Sounds to me like you did not have the clutch disc lined up properly and the input shaft of the transmission is now wedged against the side of the disc instead of through the splined hole. I would pull it back asap to check and DO NOT attempt to start it again you could damage the clutch disc or worse.
And yes tighten the bell housing to engine block bolts to 36 ft-ibs
And yes tighten the bell housing to engine block bolts to 36 ft-ibs
Last edited by 03lances; Sep 25, 2013 at 07:14 PM.
I used the alignment tool to hold the clutch in place while I tightened down the pressure plate bolts. Could it have been knocked out of place when installing the trans?
Even if the disc is aligned properly you can still miss the hole if you dont align the splines on the input shaft as you slide the transmission fully in. I would pull it back out no matter what to find out exactly what is going on.
I just hope I do it right the second time!
Got the transmission back out, every looked good, slapped it back together and it started this time no problem.
*sigh* now it starts but the clutch isnt "disengaging" when I press down the clutch pedal, it wont let me put it in gear and if I try to start it in 1st gear it just jumps forward.
Clutch seems to be bled fine but I think maybe the clutch pedal might need to be adjusted?
*sigh* now it starts but the clutch isnt "disengaging" when I press down the clutch pedal, it wont let me put it in gear and if I try to start it in 1st gear it just jumps forward.
Clutch seems to be bled fine but I think maybe the clutch pedal might need to be adjusted?
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Oh and can I bled the clutch by having someone press down on the clutch and then use a vacuum bleeder to pump out fluid then close screw and release clutch? or would this be a bad idea lol
Got the transmission back out, every looked good, slapped it back together and it started this time no problem.
*sigh* now it starts but the clutch isnt "disengaging" when I press down the clutch pedal, it wont let me put it in gear and if I try to start it in 1st gear it just jumps forward.
Clutch seems to be bled fine but I think maybe the clutch pedal might need to be adjusted?
*sigh* now it starts but the clutch isnt "disengaging" when I press down the clutch pedal, it wont let me put it in gear and if I try to start it in 1st gear it just jumps forward.
Clutch seems to be bled fine but I think maybe the clutch pedal might need to be adjusted?
You can use a vaccum bleeder to bleed your clutch you dont need anyone holding down the pedal. I use a vaccum bleeder to bleed my brakes and clutch by myself.
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