Compression testers aren't expensive, and they're VERY good to have. If you gt anything really out of whack then roll your sleeves up and open your toolbox...and your wallet. You're about to have forged internals. Sucky way to have it happen, but there really isn't a good way to blow your motor. Some just are less ****ty than others.

Like boe said though, chances are your timing is off or you blew something. Did it sound like someone threw a handful of change into your motor when it died? Mine was pretty noticable when it blew, and I can only assume everyone heard their piston's bits and pieces rattling around when theirs blew too.

 

Well i got school all day tomorrow.. i'll try to get my friend to borrow some stuff from his work to check compression and the sensors.. hopefully no later than teusday i'll have checked both.. i'll keep you guys updated.. and thanks for the help.

The funny thing is that although my car is down.. i'm enjoying working on it and learning more about how to do stuff like this.. thanks for everyones help.

- Jose

 

I know what you mean, but believe me it wears thin after a while.

 

Well i'm at school on my break... checking to see if anyone else had any suggestions.. I've been thinking about it a lot and if 1 rotation of the crank is 1/2 a roatation on the cam then my timing is correct.

When my motor went out i was doing about 80 something on 3rd gear at about 6000 RPM just getting ready to shift.. and all i hear is a sputter noise.. sudden and abrupt. lasted for maybe a second.. then my engine shut down..

If i did detonate in one of the cylinders shouldn't my car run? and it would just be knocking?
Because right now when i crank it over, it cranks but a little slow.

Well regardless i need to do the following.

1.) Get something to measure the copression and something to check the sensor codes.
- Anyone know how much either one costs?
- Where to get it?
2.) After i figure out what the problem is. And it does have something to do with the Engine.. and i "HAVE" to rebuild it.. with forged items ofcourse... how long do you think it would take? and how much?


Well right now i'm driving a suburban 100 miles 3x a week to go to school. sucky but i mean what am i going to do. So i'll keep you guys updated on whats going on. Thanks for all your help. plz stay tuned.

- Jose

 

you need to get the comp checked... should be about 20-40 bucks for the compression tester. Then you can borrow a scan tool from autozone or kragen... i think they make you pay a deposit but give it back when you return the scanner. A code reader scanner can be 80-120 bucks.

 

Yeah.. i'm really eager to get home and rent the stuff from Autozone.. still at school though.. 12 hour days at school sucks..

 

Ok.. so i got the OBD II scanner from Autozone. The instructions say to turn the ignition but you dont necessarily have to turn the car on. (I CANT ANYWAYZ). Then you plug in the OBD II to the port. and it should turn on automatically. Then you would have to press the read button and it will supposedly read the error codes. However that are two things wrong with this when i tried it.

1.) it didnt read the code for the exhaust. since i have the RRM header and have had it for 6 months.
2.) shouldn't it ask me to load up what type of vehicle it is plugging into?

Lastly my dad was able to talk to my uncle who's been a mechanic in the LA area for about 15 years now. and my uncle sais that it might be the cam position sensor? he sais that due to the Check engine light being on due to the RRM header it caused the cam position sensor to trip. now i dont know anything about that since i know a lot of people have been running the RRM header with a CEL on for maybe even longer than I.

Let me know what you guys think.

PS. compression check tomorrow afternoon. Also timing is perfect. Cam and Crank line up to where they are suppose to.

thanks again
- Jose

 

That's the best one i've heard in a long time... check your mufler bearings while your at it... A cel from the header will do nothing to cam sensor or anything else for that matter. Not to hinder your buddies expertise but come on... if you stub your toe does you tongue go numb ... The two parts are not related in any way.

The cam sensor could have gone bad but it isn't a common thing. Get the compression checked but i don't think you hurt it as the plugs were not smashed in like they should have been if you detonated at that rpm.

The scan tool usually has to be set for the car make... maybe you should call the place you got it from and ask how to do this or if it is needed. Also let them know your car is an "ISO" system... they may have given you a reader for another system. Keep us posted.

 

Well finally got the verdict. Cylinder compression checks as follows
Regular
#1 - 0
#2 - 0
#3 - 150
#4 - 0

Wet check on cylinder 1 - 150

fried rings.. wooo yay.. not.. how much do you guys think a shop would charge for labor? i'd probably go with pistons and rods from RRM so that'about 1550 in itself. *sigh* here we go.. but after.. in the end is it still really worth it?

 

Just slap some forged pistons in there. Can be done in a weekend with relative ease. Sorry to hear about that... i shot you a pm.

 

Just as I feared .

Same thing happened to my friends turbo Celica. Died and won't start back up after pulling on 3rd gear. Fried piston rings on all 4 cylinders. Found out he was running to lean and too much boost.

Oh well....Time to upgrade. Used 03 Evo can be had for $17,000

Good Luck !

 

wtf used 03 evo for 17,000? where at? i gotta take out another loan anywayz.. i'll just repair the rings instead of upgrading and sell my ish.. i'lls till be under more than i expected but damn 17k for an EVO.. hook it up with the info.

 

remember you have to have the head repaired as well. The detonation usually dings it up as well as maybe bending some vlvs from any chips off the pistons.