So here's the story. I picked up my cuzin who was visiting his friend. I wanted to show him what my car can do. I get on the road, light on first gear, let the turbo spool up second gear. Then mashed it on third gear. i must have beed doing around 85 or so at 6000rpm. Next thing I hear, a sputter noise. Then my engine shuts down. I glide into a residential area and park the car. I let the car cool off four a good 20 mins. I try to turn it on, it cranks but it will not start. I check the fuel, there is pressure and it's getting there. It seems like it can crank so i'm guessing there's a spark. Enough juice to crank so its not the battery.

So ruling out that its not the sparkplugs, fuel, or battery. I asked my dad, and he said it might be the timing belt. i also asked some of my jr. mechanic friends and they agree, or it might be the actual compression within the cylinders(i dont know dont ask).

Anywayz, now the car is back and i will inspect the timing belt tomorrow. I just wanted to get everyone's opinion and maybe some advise on how to replace this timing belt from someone who has done it before. Thanks for all your help.

- Jose
PS my car is modified with the RRM Non-IC turbo kit + header and testpipe. However i don't believe that those caused this.

 

Does it crank differently than normal?

If it cranks faster than normal , like no compression , then it would be 3 things.

1. broken or jumped T-belt

2. flooded motor ( gas in the cylinder walls causing very little compression )

3. Broken piston rings , valves , hole in the piston ect.... caused by DETONATION !!!

Hopefully it's not # 3

I'd check if your t- belt is still on time and if it is do a compression check on all cylinders.
If you don't have a compression gauge, Take all the spark plugs out and a piece of paper over the spark plug hole and crank the motor. If the paper moves, then you have some kind of compression on that cyl. Check all of them.

Good luck !

 

umm timing is hard to do unless oyu know how to use the timing gun...i dont know how to use it yet so...it would be hard for me...prolly cost you like $100 at pepboys or so

 

how much boost you running? What temp outside? Take off top cover to timing belt(4bolts) if its on and tight that's not the issue. Go buy a compression tester or borrow one. Check the compression on the cold motor and let me know what it is.

Check your oil and see if the level is fine and that there is no water on the dipstick. Also check your plugs when you remove them... if any are wet or oily then you may have poped a piston.

 

When the timing belt is broken the car will not start. If the engine turns freely with no resistance your timimg belt is probably gone. You could also look through a timing belt window if available on your timing belt cover. As far as your question for guidance on replacing this part I would advise it takes some degree of expertise to be able to replace everything as needed, even if you follow a factory manual. You may be able to bring a mechanic home for a qualified opinion.

Edmundo

 

Ok guys.. took the timing belt cover off.. its on nice and tight.. dont know how to check to see if its on time or not.. can somoene plz tell me how.. I currently have the sparkplugs off and will soon do a compression check..

Question however..
1.) if the timing belt is off its not an easy fix but it can be done correct?

2.) If its a flooded motor what do i have to do?

3.) if i popped the piston anyone got a good deal on forged JE Pistons and Pauter Rods? might as well move on up.. *its going to be a lot of hours at work*

thanks for everyones help.. i'll keep info posted and maybe you guys can help me isolate the problem..

Also my father thinks it may be something electrical? is that a possibility?

- Jose

 

Update.. the Timing belt is on tight.. we've put the crank mark to point straight up.. the mark on the under pully is pointing to the left.. Relative to you if your standing on the passenger side of the car and looking down.. anywayz.. which way are these two things suppose to point? Thanks..

- Jose

 

with the crank mark at the "T" (top dead center), the timing mark on the cam should be at about 11 oclock. there is a pointer cast into the head and it will be pointing right to the dot or pretty close if all is well. It is hard to jump a tooth on this motor and i've yet to see it done or anyone break that belt.

Your problem is not there. Do a cold cranking compression check... more than likely you'll find that you have a couple cylinders if not more reading next to nothing if not 0. On a cold motor they should be around 160-170. On a warm motor they are 180-200. Pull up your back seat and disconnect your fuel pump power connector. That way your not pumping fuel in the motor as you crank it. Take out your plugs and post pics or tell us if they look wet or oily. That will tell you a lot right there. Also if any of the probes are crushed back into the plug you know you detonated and popped a piston.

Were you running 7psi on the non-ic'd setup?

 

5psi non ic'd

 

Boe here are some pictures. Let me know what you think.. which hole on the crank is suppose to point up? there are two.. anywayz.. here you go. let me know what you think.

 

Update.. just my dumb 18 year old inexperienced *** just figured out i'm looking at the wrong marks... here is the mark.. on a plastic thing that has the mark OTDC has 4 hashes one hash shows 10 other hash shows T.. i line it up.. and this is where the cam ended up.. MaN.. did i hop the timing or what? well here's the pictures.. let me know what you guys think.

- Jose

 

So yeah.. the Crank is pointing the a plastic marker that has OTDC marked on it.. and its right on the T. However the Cam pulley is at about 4-4.5.. could i have hopped it that much and hte belt is still on tight and not brokeN?

 

i think your looking at the wrong spot on the crank... it is a little dot on one of the spokes to the gear. It should line up at about 11 oclock. Get a picture of the cam gear from the front and i'll point out the mark to you.

The plugs actually looked fine to me... take some individual pics of them upclose to the electrode and repost.

 

I think he's on on the crank. But 180 degrees off on the cam.

Rotate the crank one full turn so the mark on the cam would be pointing to the 11 o'clock position not the 5 o'clock it's pointing on the picture. Remember 1 full turn on the crank is only 1/2 rotation on the cam.

 

Right... basically you need to make sure you're at TDC on the compression stroke. Since you don't have a distributor to show you when your firing on #1 cylinder you have to look at the vlv's themselves to tell you. When at TDC and you start rotating clockwise you'll notice either the exhaust or intake vlvs being pushed down. If the intake vlvs start going down rotate the crank until you come back to the T mark... if the exhaust go down then you have to make 2 revolutions of the crank ending back on the T.

Seriously though i don't think your timing belt is the issue... you may have a cam sensor or crank sensor issue though. Have you tried hooking up an OBD-II scanner?? Run the diagnostic check to ensure all sensors are reporting/working. Also check your connectors to ensure they are on at those points and no wires are off.

Like i said those spark plugs don't look bad but without a compression check you won't know for sure. Get that done ASAP as that is the biggest thing for everyone to know.