Just called the dealer today and they said they ahd a technical bulletin out for the idling problem. A few of us in Hawaii have complained to the dealer about the exact thing. RPM looping at idle, revs up when you turn AC on/off. They told me that they are going to reflash the ECU and adjust the idle. Im going in tomorrow morning so ill keep everyone updated so we can get this bullsh*t fixed.

 

I wish they would reflash mine back to normal before. I told them not to do it since I have headers and a cat delete and not a single cat. I guess they just wanted my headers to heat up faster.

 

i think the reflash was supposed to slow down the heat up process...am i wrong. Well anyways, the problem is solved, no rpm revs or unusual looping. Just needed another reflash and some more tuning..

 

No it was supposed to heat the first cat up faster, hence why it was revving so much higher at ignition than before.

 

Get this bullsh*t. I went back to the dealer for the THIRD TIME. And they told me that my intake and test pipe are causing the idle problems ive been having since the reflash. So i took everything off and put eberything back to stock and guess what... STILL HAS THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM!!! I got an appointment with them tomorrow so ill see what happens. Dam this sucks.

 

they're giving you the run-around, i have a header and everything was fine before the reflash. it was bumpy after

 

Tell the dealer that you want a new computer because it seems that the reflash ahs caused nothing but troubles for you. I did that and they refused so i called the main office and told them the problem and guess what. Im getting a new ECU shipped here in a week. I can guarantee you, you can prove to them that the bumpiness is not caused by your mods. But the only way to do so is to remove all your mods. Pretty sh*tty yeah. When i get the new ECU im not gonna let them do the reflash on it. The reflash was only to prevent damage to the first cat right? So if i have headers i have nothing to worry about right?

 

I have this same problem and had my recall done about 3 weeks ago. I called th dealer and they said that it needed a throtle body cleaning. The car only has 18000 miles on it though. The worst part about it is while sitting at a light with the ac on the thing will jump up to 1800 rpms and then drop. Which gets real loud with no cats.

 

This is for all of us who've gotten the most recent recall done to our cars. Something to do with damage to the first catalytic converter... As most of you already know, the recall caused a lot of us to experience a sort of "RPM Looping" consisting of...
- Raised idle RPM's with AC fan off (usually fluctuating between 600 to 800)
- Raised idle RPM's with AC fan on (between 1100 and 1300)
- Reving when the AC fan turns off ( idle starts at 1100 then revs to 1400 and back to 600 when AC fan is tuned off)

Guess what... When those idiots at the stealership did my recall they did something to "adjust the idle". Well turns out that this adjusting of the idle is what was causing this problem. If there are a lot of you still out there who haven't gotten this problem fixed, could you please post a reply.

All I had to do was adjust a little bolt on the throttle body(not the one at the top that you can adjust with a flathead screwdriver). If anyone still needs to know how to fix this problem please reply. I will do a detailed rightup if there is at least one person with the problem still.

 

yes do that, what little bolt are you talking about? the hex bolt?!?! write it up step by step for all to see.

 

* Proceed with the following How-TO at your own risk. I am not responsible for any damage caused to your car. If you have trouble following these steps or need further instruction please post in this thread. Good Luck!*

First loosen your throttle cable. For those of you who do not know how to loosen the cable, here you go. Loosen the throttle cable by loosening the bolts indicated in the picture. Push the metal piece to the right to increase the “slack” in the cable. There should be ample play in the cable now.



+ Make sure you have a good amount of time to do this (took me a few hours)+



Tools

- Hex key to fit the bolt

- Ratchet socket (8mm I believe)

- Ratchet



While inside your car, turn the AC to “ 1 “ and turn the temperature dial so it NOT ON MAX. Only the green light opn the AC button should be lit. This is the setting that you will notice the changes in RPM’s the most. You should be seeing the symptoms listed in my above post.



Using the ratchet and socket, loosen the indicated nut just enough so it can be turned by hand.

Use the hex key to turn the bolt counter clockwise and you will see/hear the rpm drop. The rpms should be at the TARGET RANGE(~600k when the radiator fan is off) and (~800k when the radiator fan is on)



Now while holding the nut with the socket, insert the hex key into the bolt and slowly begin turning ONLY THE BOLT in a clockwise direction. Hold the socket to stop the nut from moving.


Keep turning the bolt just until you see/hear the rpms go up again. Now proceed to the next step.

-Turn the hex key very little in a counter-clockwise motion. Hold the position the hex key is in.

-Now rev the engine by pushing down on the black piece shown in the picture. Push it only enough to hear the rpms go up a few hundred and then release it.


-If your rpm’s stay in the target range then move on. If not then repeat the previous steps.

Using the hex key, hold the bolt from turning while you hand tighten the nut using the socket. Now using the ratchet and socket, tighten the nut. The bolt may move while you do this so slightly turn the bolt counter-clockwise before tightening the nut. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.


If you have done this correctly, your rpms will now be in the target range. Now try to position your throttle cable as shown in the picture and retighten the bolts. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.


This may solve the problem for most of you but for some, the accelerator will feel “sticky”. It will feel like it is stuck in the off throttle position until you press it a little harder, then it will feel like normal. Here’s what’s happening. Because you adjusted the throttle body so it closes more, this causes the butterfly valve to get stuck in the closed position which takes a bit of force on the accelerator to free it. The solution to this is to adjust the bolt clockwise until this “stickiness” of the accelerator is gone.

It may take several tries for you to get it where the accelerator is not “sticky” and the engine doesn’t idle rough.

The engine should no longer rev up when the radiator fan goes off and your idle should remain at a constant rpm.

If your idle with the AC off is too high or too low you may adjust the idle. To do this, remove the plug on the throttle body. Using a flathead screwdriver, turn the screw clockwise to lower the idle rpm and counter-clockwise to raise it. Remember how many rotations you do.

And thats it.

 

ok i need some help guys... I got my idle perfect but sometimes the idle stays up as if the throttle is a little open and sometimes it runs fine. Im thinking this is happening cuz the spring for the throttle is maybe worn out and its not pulling the throttle hard enough to bring it back to the closed position... help please!!

 

yeah i went ovre to ask about that recall and they told me since i have a modified exhaust with no cat that if i did bring my car in they would not be able to release my car to me and they would have to let the state know that i was not complying with the law and turn me in. what a bunch of *****es

 

Just going to subscribe to the thread for now.

ROAD/RACE

 

I'm no law expert in any way... but couldn't that be considered theft? You're the owner of your car. Unless they are officer of the law, or mandated by officers of the law I don't think they have any rights to keep your car against your will*sp*