what do you mean fogging? never heard that one before.
thanks for the advice though- i might try it once i know what it is.

 

Put the spray bottle on SPRAY not STREAM and spray into the intake while its idling. It will come out like a fog and get sucked in to do what ever it is that SeaFoam does.

 

sounds like it would work.

davemiro; read this before using sea foam so you are familiar with how it works:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...light=sea+foam

 

Thats what I think but I haven't tried it but its the same as dumping it in the intake manifold except you are getting the MAS this way too.

 

Comatose,
read the thread on sea foam- now i am kinda skeptic about using the stuff. not sure if it is right for me or not. i really just want to clean the Tb and maf sensor to see if that helps. the car only has 35000 miles right now.

 

i read mostly all of it. i wouldn't use it on my car...i really don't have a reason why other than the fact that i don't want to toy with something that isn't broken. i keep up on maintainence and all the other odds and ends so i don't need to worry about as much of that...not to mention i've got another motor being built (put on hold) in my garage.

if you don't want to use the seafoam, just make sure the MAF is clear of debris and you should be A-OK. do as i said with the TB. i honestly am uncertain as to whether or not what airline said to do will damage the sensor or not; however it does sound pretty logical.

 

Is there a K&N filter on your car? I saw you cleaned the intake earlier in the thread. I have heard AEM went with dry filter media because people were getting the mineral oil from the K&N type oiled filters all over their MAS/MAF in other vehicles and messing them up.

 

my car has one of those oil type filters, i believe it is k&n. i bought the intake from rmr not rrm.

 

How many miles on the car? Is the PCV valve working properly? it's the little bolty looking thing on the end of the tube that comes off of the valve cover. Take that off and blow through it in the direction the gasses would travel. If there's a lot of resistance you need a new one (it should be kinda like blowing through a straw). It sounds like a small vacuum leak to me (because we're running out of the "easy" stuff to diagnose ). Make sure all the connections are snug and all your hoses are connceted.

Maybe I'll think of something else later- I was gonna say plugs but you went back to the NGK coppers.

 

ya i'll try the pcv valve thanks

 

when you did your spark plugs did you disconnect your battery? I was going to suggest to going back to the stock spark plugs because supposively mitsubishi engines can be sensitive to the brand of spark plug, specifically I have heard not to use the bosch platinums. It really just sounds like you need to reset your ecu and let it sit for 20 minutes or so. Whenever I do something that involves reseting the ecu, if I don't give it a good amount of time to learn all the curves again it will start to bog down and even stall, especially with the ac on. It really doesn't sound like you have a problem.

 

well i did till i changed the plugs back to stock ones and reset the ecu. it just doesn't run right when the ac is on. it idles between like 3 and 400 rpm. hopefully all will be well when i put in the piggy and headers though.

 

mine does the same thing, I adjusted the idle control to allow for more air to smooth out the jumps, but it's a vacuum leak, intake manifold gasket is cracked. I'ts a common problem with the lancer especially if the mileage is over 80k.

 

ok i was having the same problem when car is iddling the rpm goes from 400-600 and revs back and forth as if it was going to die...... I WENT TO MY MACHANIC AND FOR 15 DOLLARS HE ADJUSTED THE IDDLE SPEED AND PUT IT TO 1000 WERE IT IS SUPPOSED TO BE NOW THE CAR IDDLES SO QUIT AS IF I JUST GOT IT......... NO REVING UP AND DOWN ANYMORE IT WAS A 5 MINUTE TASK........ P.S MITU SAID IT WAS THE IDDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE WICH WAS A 500 DOLLAR PART SO 15 DOLLARS OVER 500 DOLLARS NOT BAD........