how are you screwed? did it screw something else up as well? timing belt is not hard to replace.

 

If it jumped timing while running, it's a good bet it'll take more than a new belt to fix it. I had a 1G DSM ( 4G63 engine) that did almost the exact same thing. Drove fine until I stepped on the clutch to stop. The engine stalled, wouldn't restart. Jumped timing. My engine was F00ked up.

Line the crank timing mark up, and see where the cam ends up. If it's WAY off, you'll need to check the condition of your valves. If not, you can try putting on a new belt, tensioner, and idler. You might get lucky.

If the timing is no good, you'll probably have to pull the head off to assess the damage. At that point, you might consider just buying a used engine and dropping it in. It'll cost about the same as replacing the valves, gaskets, belts, etc.. If you need more than just valves, gaskets and belts, definitely look into a used engine to drop in.

Mine needed a new head, new #2 piston, cylinder honing, new piston rings, new bearings, gaskets, belts, etc., to get running again. Two days and 300 miles later, one of the rod bearings ran dry of oil and spun. I pulled off the road when I heard the death rattle and had it towed home for the second time in a week. By that time, I was so sick of working on it I scrapped the car after a quick part-out. I would have been better off buying a $500 used engine.

 

welp after a full day of work to remove everything on the front of the motor except the a/c, and draining the coolant.. disconnecting the wiring and all the grounds and so on i finally removed the head but i found it to be easier to keep the intake manifold on til u have it out of the car.... it bent almost all the valves on the intake side..... and a few on the exhaust side..... i got the timing cover off also... so once i get some new valves and a valve job done with new gaskets and a timing belt imma have it back on the road.... im am so glad that it didnt mess up any of the pistons.. and nothing broken... "thank god" ... it left like 1/8 th of an inch marks on the tops of the pistons but no dents..... i know some people that can cut me some deals so this will only cost me about $300.... im doing all the work my self...

 

Did you bend a bunch of vavles? or put a hole in a piston? What happened when it jumped time or have you not taken the head off yet? Just curious

 

ok nevermind i see

 

Pardon my airheadness

 

lol

 

Wow, I just changed my timing belt yesterday. That sucks to hear man. Prolly cheaper to drop in a used motor.

 

Did you have absolutely NO compression even when the timing marks are completely lined up? I don't have ANY compression at all, other than a POP through the exhaust every once in a while. Engine just cranks and cranks.

 

What would cause it to jump timing?

 

loose belt (too old maybe, or the tensioner wasn't re-tensioned), cam gear installed incorrectly (i.e. the cam is not at the proper position when installed), when the belt is installed properly tension must be kept or the crank will move when you're trying to slip the belt over the cam gear, I've had the belt sit on the peak between the teeth of the crank and then fall in to place when the cam starts to move....
All of those can be avoided by moving the cam manually (put a long wrench on the nut and turn the cam gear a full rotation). IIRC half rotation on the cam is a full rotation of the crank. If your timing is off, start the whole cam gear install over (put the cam where it needs to be, remove the timing belt, move the crank clockwise to get the timing you want) . If the timing looks good, do three more full rotations and check again (for a total of four). Then turn the car on and let it run for a minute. Turn off the engine and recheck. At this point if it's good, you're good to go.