Lancer engine is junk!
Jun 9, 2003, 09:43 PM
#16
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Originally posted by zlancer
its most probably normal. mitsu motors are notorious for loud valve noises. my valves are pretty loud.
its most probably normal. mitsu motors are notorious for loud valve noises. my valves are pretty loud.
Jun 10, 2003, 12:04 AM
#18
It sounds like a lifter bled down and hsn't pumped back up yet.
The procedure above should help, remember the pressure on the lifter makes it difficult for it to pump back up. If it doesn't go away, I would definitely go back to the dealer, it's probably bad.
Also, make sure they do them all, there is no way they can tell which one it is. I worked at Saturn and we had some problems with lifters, replacing was the only real fix.
The procedure above should help, remember the pressure on the lifter makes it difficult for it to pump back up. If it doesn't go away, I would definitely go back to the dealer, it's probably bad.
Also, make sure they do them all, there is no way they can tell which one it is. I worked at Saturn and we had some problems with lifters, replacing was the only real fix.
Jun 10, 2003, 11:37 PM
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Originally posted by cwest
Put in Prolong, no help.
Put in Prolong, no help.
Jun 14, 2003, 01:17 AM
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1) Prolong does not void warranties
2) Prolong is not slick 50 (which is crap)
3) theres no way to "find" prolong without doing a metalurigical chemical test, which I doubt a dealer has the ability to do.
3) Lnacer engine is a sloppy crappy engine that is programmed to break after the waranty is up. Think about it, the motor only runs loud at certain RPM's, so the motor is only in that range so often. One can calculate how often the car is in that range for normal driving & factor in the wear factor & viola! You need new valves & a head job for only $1500!
2) Prolong is not slick 50 (which is crap)
3) theres no way to "find" prolong without doing a metalurigical chemical test, which I doubt a dealer has the ability to do.
3) Lnacer engine is a sloppy crappy engine that is programmed to break after the waranty is up. Think about it, the motor only runs loud at certain RPM's, so the motor is only in that range so often. One can calculate how often the car is in that range for normal driving & factor in the wear factor & viola! You need new valves & a head job for only $1500!
Jun 14, 2003, 02:23 AM
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I think you guys are a bit paranoid. Mitsu used the same 4g9x block but built it a little taller (might have some possible flaws). You guys need to look into those possible flaws and start dissecting them . . . probable cause and solution.
From all the years of reading and some first hand witness on the 4g92 and G93, those engines always had loud valvetrain noise. DSMs have it too to an extent. Those engines spun far more rpms, endured tons of mileage from age, and had more mods than most would ever expected.
Yes, just maybe Mitsu did take some short cuts on the block manufacturing process. You guy need to keep a log book on those possible problems. What's the problem? Solution? Did it work? and long term tear down and take a gander?
Heck, when my tuned G93 at 96K mileage was killed by a full size dodge truck, the motor still ran strong w/o antifreeze, 2 crushed exhaust runners on the OBX header, and P/S belt scraping along the busted core support for about 10-15 sec. I had to shut the car down in case starting a probable engine fire (messing w/ the fuel injectors before the crank up). Not once misfired or making abnormal noises, besides P/S belts scraping. Afterwards, I stripped most of my performance parts that weren't damaged.
As for valves and head, according to the RPW guy, it's exactly the same as the G93. So far, none of us experienced any valvetrain or cyl head problems. The latter has been documented from ill tuned TC application that blew a head gasket and more parts along with it. Or bent valves from missed the timing mark. Those factors are from human error, not parts failure.
For the rpm noise, look at the only internal variable from the G93 to G94, the conrods. That maybe it but it's up to you guys to look into it further.
Otherwise, some of you are hyper sensative.
From all the years of reading and some first hand witness on the 4g92 and G93, those engines always had loud valvetrain noise. DSMs have it too to an extent. Those engines spun far more rpms, endured tons of mileage from age, and had more mods than most would ever expected.
Yes, just maybe Mitsu did take some short cuts on the block manufacturing process. You guy need to keep a log book on those possible problems. What's the problem? Solution? Did it work? and long term tear down and take a gander?
Heck, when my tuned G93 at 96K mileage was killed by a full size dodge truck, the motor still ran strong w/o antifreeze, 2 crushed exhaust runners on the OBX header, and P/S belt scraping along the busted core support for about 10-15 sec. I had to shut the car down in case starting a probable engine fire (messing w/ the fuel injectors before the crank up). Not once misfired or making abnormal noises, besides P/S belts scraping. Afterwards, I stripped most of my performance parts that weren't damaged.
As for valves and head, according to the RPW guy, it's exactly the same as the G93. So far, none of us experienced any valvetrain or cyl head problems. The latter has been documented from ill tuned TC application that blew a head gasket and more parts along with it. Or bent valves from missed the timing mark. Those factors are from human error, not parts failure.
For the rpm noise, look at the only internal variable from the G93 to G94, the conrods. That maybe it but it's up to you guys to look into it further.
Otherwise, some of you are hyper sensative.
Jun 14, 2003, 02:33 AM
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Also, you might be hearing tranny clatter or faint ringing during moderate to hard acceration.
I heard it on my 86 olds cutlass ciera at 55K (already thumping and slipping in the first place), my G93 at 65K from 4500-5200 rpm (sounded normal with tons of hard acceleration runs), and a friend's modern tauras at 40K (can't be any more a conservative driver). My friend took his ford to the dealership, and the mechanic cannot find anything wrong.
Whether it's normal clatter or ringing, I don't know. As long it doesn't slips or thumps, it's okay on the tranny side.
I heard it on my 86 olds cutlass ciera at 55K (already thumping and slipping in the first place), my G93 at 65K from 4500-5200 rpm (sounded normal with tons of hard acceleration runs), and a friend's modern tauras at 40K (can't be any more a conservative driver). My friend took his ford to the dealership, and the mechanic cannot find anything wrong.
Whether it's normal clatter or ringing, I don't know. As long it doesn't slips or thumps, it's okay on the tranny side.
Jun 18, 2003, 07:44 PM
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Originally posted by timzcat
It sounds like a lifter bled down and hsn't pumped back up yet.
The procedure above should help, remember the pressure on the lifter makes it difficult for it to pump back up. If it doesn't go away, I would definitely go back to the dealer, it's probably bad.
Also, make sure they do them all, there is no way they can tell which one it is. I worked at Saturn and we had some problems with lifters, replacing was the only real fix.
It sounds like a lifter bled down and hsn't pumped back up yet.
The procedure above should help, remember the pressure on the lifter makes it difficult for it to pump back up. If it doesn't go away, I would definitely go back to the dealer, it's probably bad.
Also, make sure they do them all, there is no way they can tell which one it is. I worked at Saturn and we had some problems with lifters, replacing was the only real fix.
Jun 18, 2003, 08:05 PM
#24
Well you would have to take off the timing belt and remove the camshafts to get at the lifters/lash adjusters. If that doesn't scare you then no problem. If you don't have a torque wrench to put the cams back in then you can forget it right now. My guess is the dealer charges about 3.5 hours labor if it is out of warranty.
at today's rates that's about $280 for labor plus parts which I don't know the cost of. If I had to guess the lash adjusters are probably about $20 to $30 a piece.
at today's rates that's about $280 for labor plus parts which I don't know the cost of. If I had to guess the lash adjusters are probably about $20 to $30 a piece.
Jun 21, 2003, 09:01 AM
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Originally posted by timzcat
Well you would have to take off the timing belt and remove the camshafts to get at the lifters/lash adjusters. If that doesn't scare you then no problem. If you don't have a torque wrench to put the cams back in then you can forget it right now. My guess is the dealer charges about 3.5 hours labor if it is out of warranty.
at today's rates that's about $280 for labor plus parts which I don't know the cost of. If I had to guess the lash adjusters are probably about $20 to $30 a piece.
Well you would have to take off the timing belt and remove the camshafts to get at the lifters/lash adjusters. If that doesn't scare you then no problem. If you don't have a torque wrench to put the cams back in then you can forget it right now. My guess is the dealer charges about 3.5 hours labor if it is out of warranty.
at today's rates that's about $280 for labor plus parts which I don't know the cost of. If I had to guess the lash adjusters are probably about $20 to $30 a piece.
mechanic or something! haha! question, how does the car run just fine if a lifter is bad? Look forward to your wisdom!
Jun 21, 2003, 09:33 AM
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Wow, I think I have the same problem. It sounds good idle, but as i slowly rev, i hear the clicking for about a second, then either it stops or the engine is too loud, can't tell. I mean, my car isnot even 3 weeks old, 1600 mi. so I thought it was normal at the low revs,i never had a mitsu b4. But dam im glad i found this thread. let me know if any of the above stuff works, i'll try it too and get back
Jun 23, 2003, 08:41 PM
#30
bahamut, your post doesn't even make sense. 
cwest,
According to the procedure I gave you, is it in fact the lash adjusters? I read back in your posts about it doing it at 1800 RPM.
They give you qualifying factors for it to be the lash adjusters at the beginning of the instructions.
It is posible that is not the problem, but if not then it gets worse.
It could be from the bottom end of the motor. Regarldless, you should be all over the dealer's **** to fix the car now, while it is under warranty. From how loud you said it can be that is not normal. Aries K
On a slightly seperate note. There is an enigne flush procedure that uses a solvent pumped through the engine to clean all the oil passages, etc. It is pulsed and heated and it actually works well. I forget who is the manufacturer of the equipment, it is enviro something. Anyway, it is starting to pop up at dealers more and more. I have personally done these flushes when I worked at the dealer and did it to my own car because I was impressed with the result.
My point here is that if there is any sludge or dirt in the engine it will help clean it out. It doesn't have to be just air in the lash adjusters, a slugded up adjuster can do the same thing.
On that note, even if you change your oil every 3000 miles doesn't mean you won't get sludge. Cheap oil sludges up pretty easily and it is often what the dealer uses because of the price.
cwest,
According to the procedure I gave you, is it in fact the lash adjusters? I read back in your posts about it doing it at 1800 RPM.
They give you qualifying factors for it to be the lash adjusters at the beginning of the instructions.
It is posible that is not the problem, but if not then it gets worse.
It could be from the bottom end of the motor. Regarldless, you should be all over the dealer's **** to fix the car now, while it is under warranty. From how loud you said it can be that is not normal. Aries K
On a slightly seperate note. There is an enigne flush procedure that uses a solvent pumped through the engine to clean all the oil passages, etc. It is pulsed and heated and it actually works well. I forget who is the manufacturer of the equipment, it is enviro something. Anyway, it is starting to pop up at dealers more and more. I have personally done these flushes when I worked at the dealer and did it to my own car because I was impressed with the result.
My point here is that if there is any sludge or dirt in the engine it will help clean it out. It doesn't have to be just air in the lash adjusters, a slugded up adjuster can do the same thing.
On that note, even if you change your oil every 3000 miles doesn't mean you won't get sludge. Cheap oil sludges up pretty easily and it is often what the dealer uses because of the price.