Hey guys I have been having this metal clanking sound for awhile in my front passenger wheel area. So I finally get a chance to pull it off and look at it and both ball joints are toast!! Oh well no big deal. I order a tie rod end and lower control arm, I go to pull the old tie rod end off and I cant break the jam nut away from the tie rod end for nothing!!!. Anybody done this on these cars before? I am pretty mechanically inclinded but am having a b**ch of a time getting that to break free since the darn rod just swings wherever. Any suggestion are greatly appreciated thanks!!!

 

PB Blaster it, and let stand overnight. Then go at it!

 

I actually just got it I had some Industrial lube that frees seized parts as well. Sprayed it on and left for only about 20 minutes then mananged to hold one wrench against the inner fender well and hit the other wrench with a hammer. Thanks SLVROZ 03!!!

 

Hey, I have an 02 Lancer ES and both of my front inner tie rods are toast. I went to have it inspected (Pennsylvania) and the mechanic told me that my right passenger wheel bearing is shot and both of my inner tie rods are gone. Anyone know how hard it's going to be to replace the inner tie rods? It will be my first shot at it on any car besides doing outer tie rods. Anyone with some experience doing these would be great. I can't see how it would be too hard of a project to tackle. But how about the wheel bearing? All I have to do is take the front suspension apart and press the wheel bearing and hub out of the spindle right? The get a bearing puller and remove the old bearing and replace it with a new one right? BTW, I work at the Pittsburgh airport in the maintenance area and my boss will let me use the press.

 

^Well, like I mentioned to 03lances...lube it up good, even the night before if possible. The tie rods will be easy, I guess. But that bearing be a pita; but with the press, that'll help out alot! Take the entire assembly to your shop there and do it after hours or on break.

Good luck!

 

you have to take off the hub knucle and press it out and back in. The bearings cost me $27 ea good luck. Make sure you change both bearing and not just one side and get a front end alingment right after you change all that

 

where in heavens name did you get the wheel bearings for $27 !1?!!? ive just replaced both of mine,a month apart from each for a nice total of 122 each side...and now ive got to replace both rotors and new breaks and rear shoes...isnt life nice...

 

+1

i lower'd my car in March and i'm now starting to hear a knock in my passanger side as well.

also mines a 2006 and i'd hate for this to be an reoccurring issue.
have you replace your since the last time.?

 

Go to partsamerica.com trust me

 

^ thnks

 

Hey guys...having a hell of a hard time busting out the inner tie rod on the drivers side...I am coming at it from under the hood since there is no room for a wrench down there.

I am spraying PB nut blaster on it but I am just stuck...any suggestions guys?

 

There are wrench flats but they're basically inaccessible. You need an inner tie rod tool.

 

what is a wrench flat?

No one else has mentioned this tool? is it a generic/universal item or one specifically for mitsu?

 

The wrench flat is the flat area on the inner tie rod end near where it screws into the rack. If the rack were out of the car you could put a wrench on it and unscrew it but because the rack is installed, you can't get to it. You need an inner tie rod tool. It's basically universal although they come in a few sizes.

 

Well I learned the hard way...you need the inner tie rod tool for sure...at this point I may try to find one but my shop is just taking care of the last tightening. It will end up costing me a little extra but not sure if this is available at my local sears hardware or napa.