Low idle and stalling
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Low idle and stalling
Hello everyone! I just picked up a 2003 Lancer OZ rally edition from a friend. A mechanic recently replaced timing belt, water pump, plugs and had the head redone as the previous person had the timing belt snap. At first it would idle when warm around 400 at a stop and almost like a miss, but did not stall. I put some gas in it and it seemed to have a bit of trouble starting and while cranking I had to press the gas pedal a bit to get it to start. It still had a bit of a starting issue, but would start on its own without hitting the gas pedal. If I was driving at any speed and let off the gas to coast the idle would drop to around 1000 then go back and forth from there to 1500.
Today I did an interior detail and changed some lights out. While doing that I had the battery unhooked. I put the battery back in and it started fine and held idle fine. When I was driving at a speed around 35-40 and would let off the gas the idle would drop below 400 and try to stall, which it might have had I not tapped the gas pedal. At every stop the idle drops all the way until it stalls. It will stay running if I hold the gas pedal. After I put the battery back in I started the car for about five minutes and then drove off. I am not currently seeing any CEL lights at all, but then again that light might not work. I have been searching and found a few things that I can try tomorrow to try and pinpoint the issue including:
The car when driving seems to me to drive fine as long as I am pushing the gas pedal. Currently it has 80k miles on it. Any other thoughts of what I might check? Thanks for any help!
Today I did an interior detail and changed some lights out. While doing that I had the battery unhooked. I put the battery back in and it started fine and held idle fine. When I was driving at a speed around 35-40 and would let off the gas the idle would drop below 400 and try to stall, which it might have had I not tapped the gas pedal. At every stop the idle drops all the way until it stalls. It will stay running if I hold the gas pedal. After I put the battery back in I started the car for about five minutes and then drove off. I am not currently seeing any CEL lights at all, but then again that light might not work. I have been searching and found a few things that I can try tomorrow to try and pinpoint the issue including:
- Clean throttle bottles
- Vacuum leaks
- MAS
- IAC (Wow pricey part!)
- Throttle cable
The car when driving seems to me to drive fine as long as I am pushing the gas pedal. Currently it has 80k miles on it. Any other thoughts of what I might check? Thanks for any help!
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Shan Foster (Feb 1, 2023)
#4
still havent figured out the problem. it runs for now but idles high because i adjusted the throttle cable so it wont keep dieing one me when i stop lol but now wheneveer i idle it makes a popping/crackling noise under the hood kinda by the steering wheel area. i dont know what it could be amd im too broke to go to the shop
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#8
Low idle and stalling SOLVED
Hi guys,
I see that lots of you are have the low idle and stalling issue. I'm a Mitsubishi mechanic and the most common reasons this issue happens is either one of 2 things. First, it could be a dirty or faulty IAC valve. Check and replace if necessary.
The second most common problem is the introduction of air into the cooling system. I know most of you will say the cooling system has nothing to do with rough idle, but trust me, it does.
To fix the problem, simply open the rad cap, start your car and let it idle for 15 minutes with the rad cap off. This will get rid of the air bubbles in your coolant and smooth out your idle. This should fix most of your rough idle and stalling issues.
I see that lots of you are have the low idle and stalling issue. I'm a Mitsubishi mechanic and the most common reasons this issue happens is either one of 2 things. First, it could be a dirty or faulty IAC valve. Check and replace if necessary.
The second most common problem is the introduction of air into the cooling system. I know most of you will say the cooling system has nothing to do with rough idle, but trust me, it does.
To fix the problem, simply open the rad cap, start your car and let it idle for 15 minutes with the rad cap off. This will get rid of the air bubbles in your coolant and smooth out your idle. This should fix most of your rough idle and stalling issues.
Last edited by Bmatwie; Mar 19, 2016 at 11:18 AM. Reason: Make it clearer
#9
Evolving Member
What he said above. When the ECT sensor sees an air bubble rather than hot water, the computer erroneously adjusts the fuel mixture. The result is an unstable engine speed.
#11
Rough idle and my oz rally wont start
So basically i just brought a 2003 Mitsubishi lancer oz rally. When i got it it only needed a new timing belt and kit. Ended up installing that and a new starter, new battery, new sparlk plugs, air filter, throttle body positioning sensor and crank shaft sensor. I got the car running but with a major flaw, the engine shuts off when i come to a stop or if i slow down to where the rpm goes below 1 it will shut down. So i let the car sit for bit untill i could figure it out but a couple days i go to start the car and nothing. I've talked to a couple mechanics but no luck. It cranks and pulls over but just doesnt want to start. Any tips or suggestions i could try to get this thing running? Im low on cash so prefabaly things that dont involve me going flat broke.
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