SilentCool

I actually checked that pin hole, seems like it was fine. Still cleaned it out. Trust me guys I have been very thorough with this thing. I even applied some vacuum with the hand pump & it held it fine, however I will check again.

RT78

Well, unfortunately now I'm a a loss. Seems like you covered every possible aspect of what may be causing the problem except for any issues wiring wise. Unless the remote chance you got a faulty solenoid, but I doubt that. I'm not good with the electrical side of things, just know the basics like grounds relays and stuff. Troubleshooting electrical is something I won't be able to give you advice on. Hopefully someone who's familiar with it can give you a hand.

SilentCool

I replaced the solenoid itself but never checked the actual wiring so that's something to consider. Here's another thing that may or may not help eliminate the issue. The car now has an intermittent stalling issue, as long as I keep the rpms above 1000 it's fine. This happens only at idle. If I clear the code it goes away but the CEL returns, ofcourse. The idle/stalling comes back after a few days. Am I to assume that this means one of my vacuum hoses has a leak? Probably a very small crack that I overlooked but big enough to cause a malfunction in the system?

mcgarvey

I would try applying vacuum directly to the EGR valve, with the engine idling. The engine should stall almost instantly. If it doesn't, it tells you either the EGR valve itself, or the passage in the cylinder head, has a restriction. If it stalls, that proves the mechanical side of the system is good, and the problem is in the control side.

At that point, I would be looking for a scan tool that can command the EGR solenoid on and off, in order to test its function. That solenoid normally only opens while cruising, so it's very difficult to test (though you could at least check resistance back to the computer) without a capable scan tool. The wiring to the solenoid could be the culprit, as was stated before.

One other thing to look at: Ever wonder why these cars have both a MAF and a MAP sensor? The MAP sensor is what the computer uses to monitor EGR flow. When it commands an EGR opening, it looks for lower vacuum in the manifold as a confirmation. The MAP sensor could be bad or the port could be obstructed, and the EGR system could in fact be working fine, and just never seeing that confirmation.

EGR is an annoying system, and it's also to blame for the inside of the intake getting so ****ted up with black gunk. If there were an easy way to make it go away, I would, since there really isnt any performance benefit- it's basically there to reduce NOx emissions under certain, limited conditions.

SilentCool

One of the first things I did was to apply vacuum directly to the EGR while the engine was idling, car stumbled and stalled. It happened with both the old and new EGR valve. So I know for sure that is not the issue. A couple days ago I tested almost every component within the system according to the manual and everything tested good for the most part. I say for the most part because The solenoid tested fine one way but when tested with applying power directly from the battery I didn't get the results that I am supposed to get from a properly functioning solenoid, however, this is a relatively new part so I am assuming it was an error on my part. Let me explain:




1. According to the manual when power is applied directly to the solenoid from the battery it is supposed to maintain vacuum. The solenoid clicks on when power is applied and off when the leads are removed but it doesn't maintain vacuum unless I plug/block the nipple labeled "B."

2. Whenever the solenoid is plugged back into the circuit (socket) I do not hear any clicking even when the key is turned to "on."

Can someone explain all of this to me if possible, hope it makes sense.

02modlanceroz

iTrader: (2)

Did you check the resistance on the connection to see if that falls within spec as well?

meckert

iTrader: (11)

Couple of things---did you finally replace all the associated vacuum lines with new tubing?
2) when you replaced the switches--did you use OEM parts from the dealer or where they used or aftermarket?

SilentCool

Yes I did, resistance is fine.

SilentCool

There are now all new vacuum lines except the two thicker lines going to and from the evap purge solenoid.

The EGR valve and solenoid are both aftermarket.

mcgarvey

Then the solenoid is bad. You won't ever hear it click when plugged in to the car, unless you're under the hood while you're driving down the highway. This is when EGR operates. You could attach a vacuum gauge to the downstream side of that solenoid and place it where visible while driving at high speeds and see if vacuum is reaching it when EGR opening is commanded. Also connect a very low wattage test light or DVOM across the solenoid connector terminals to see if the solenoid is being commanded open by the computer under the expected conditions.

SilentCool

When connected directly to the battery terminals, it's not supposed to click?

meckert

iTrader: (11)

Hate to say it-- but its these kinds of issues that are a real pain and the reason why I always buy OEM on these kinds of specific switches etc-. I know there expensive but..
regardless-- good luck

SilentCool

I know what you mean. I will keep the thread updated to let you guys know how everything goes.

mcgarvey

I'm confused. It clicks when connected to an external source of 12v and ground, but does not seal vacuum?

Or it does not click?

I meant that, plugged in to the car's harness, there is no way to check if the solenoid is clicking other than the gauge/test light setup i described. Unless you have a Mitsu scan tool that can command EGR opening with the engine off.

SilentCool

Yes it clicks when an external 12v source is applied (clicks when connnected then clicks again when disconnected).

I am going to purchase an IM and throttle body from the junkyard, to see what happens.