02 lancer wont start after installing silencer
#31
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#32
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Ok guys, the car has not been running for about 4 days now. Hope the battery will have enough juice left in it. Ok so I bought a pack of the 7.5 MINI fuses. Testing today if that is indeed the current "it" problem. There is one question that arises though: what caused the fuse to blow in the first place. I had that 03 OZ for 2 years and never had a problem with the that fuse. So I figured there might a short somewhere. I think I think I found it and successfully repaird it but I'm not sure, well see soon! Keep you posted.
#33
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Ok guys here's the status. The fuse has been replaced and still no power to the pump. I just checked the 7.5 fuse and it's not blown again so that means power is getting to the relays? So maybe one of the relays is bad. Ok so today I will be testing the relays. If the fuses under the hood are good, and fuses under the dash are good, and the pump itself is good, and the wiring is good, I guess that leaves the 2 relays.
#34
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For the relay, ye one under the hood is good. I couldn't hear mine when I got it, either, the fuel pump, that is. The relays under the hood are all 4-pin boxes with two copper and two silver-colored contacts. Take two wires, one to each side of the battery, and hold one to a contact while you touch the others. If the wires get warm, you've got a NC (normally closed) contact that you've bridged. If nothing happens, you've got one of two things: a fried relay or a NO (normally opened) contact that you've bridged. If the relay is shot, I don't know whether the wires will get warm or not. If you hear a click from inside the relay, then it is good. If you try all the possible combinations on the relay like this and arrive at nothing, it is probably no good. They can be turned around in their place, so I doubt that they are designated anywhere as +\-.
While you are under the hood, check all of your harnesses. As beat-up as the engine bay looks to me at a glance, it isn't a long shot to say that there may be a few important ones that are loose. Loose harness on the MAF sensor will keep it from running, for instance.
(source: I used to work as a professional electrician, and these little tricks work wonders on low-voltage, low-amperage stuff like this. It just takes a second to figure out what's what.)
While you are under the hood, check all of your harnesses. As beat-up as the engine bay looks to me at a glance, it isn't a long shot to say that there may be a few important ones that are loose. Loose harness on the MAF sensor will keep it from running, for instance.
(source: I used to work as a professional electrician, and these little tricks work wonders on low-voltage, low-amperage stuff like this. It just takes a second to figure out what's what.)
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Justinandcecil (Jun 29, 2016)
#37
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Ok guys got an interesting update!. First off, if you ever need to test your relays and they look like mines with 2 gold connectors, try them first because it worked for me. I touched the 2 gold ends and right away I hear the clicking sound very strong so the relays and fuses are fine. So what does that leave? Here's what I'm going to do. I know I don't have the best hearing, so this time I'm going to pull out the pump and test it while it's still connected to the harness and get one last confirmation about whether it's getting power.
#38
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Yes I checked the fuse under the hood but I will check again. Guys I'm having loads of fun right now but I'm runnning out of options now. If the fuses and relays are working and the pump is good that only leaves the wiring and harness right?
#39
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One things for sure, that 7.5 fuse under the dash was blown, so makes me wounder what caused it to blow. Will be checking the wiring next for sure. I'll let you know about the final power to pump test and will check again the 15amp fuse under the hood
#40
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Thread Starter
Testing again if I can hear the pump with the key turned to on position. This time with the pump out of the tank. Because maybe my hearings not as good as I think/maybe I have an extra quite pump
Testing again if I can hear the pump with the key turned to on position. This time with the pump out of the tank. Because maybe my hearings not as good as I think/maybe I have an extra quite pump
#41
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Ok so I jusr hooked everything back up(battery, both relays, fuses, pump plug) everything is back into proper place and I double checked the 7.5 fuse under the dash and the 15amp fuse under the hood, everythings in working order and the pump is out of the tank and I turned the key to the on position and there is still no power to the pump because it's not working. I even jiggled the harness assembly there and nothing happens. So,,,,,,,,,the obvious next things to check is all the wiring system related to the pump. Fist thing I'm going to do is disconnect the harness and test to see if there is power going through there successfully
#43
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so in the connector for the pump housing, you get 12v on red with the key in the on position, and you metered resistance from the black to a good chassis ground (unpainted bolt/metal on the body/chassis), and it checks out?
the ground for the fuel pump should be behind the rear seat back rest on that side...
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Justinandcecil (Jun 29, 2016)
#44
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so in the connector for the pump housing, you get 12v on red with the key in the on position, and you metered resistance from the black to a good chassis ground (unpainted bolt/metal on the body/chassis), and it checks out?
the ground for the fuel pump should be behind the rear seat back rest on that side...
the ground for the fuel pump should be behind the rear seat back rest on that side...
#45
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Update guys, at this point, all being considered, I'm most certain the problem is with the wires somewhere and I'm thinking that's what caused the fuse to blow in the first place. There may actually be a severed wire somewhere because the fuse has not blown again. So whatever short caused it to blow must be completely severed otherwise it would have blown the fuse again by now. Anybody agree? So anyway like I said we've got it down to the wiring being the issue. But before I started following the pump wiring trail I thought I would call the Midas mechanic that I trust near by Mr. David, and gave him the run down about what's going on and what I've checked so far. He agrees that after all that I've eliminated, a wiring issue is what remains. So starting today I will follow the fuel pump wiring trail and let you guys know what's up