S13 clip + 240 with blown tranny=
S13 clip + 240 with blown tranny=
SR20Swap, Yeah. Ok I picked up a s13 with a blacktop, front clip. And I have a 240 automatic with a blown tranny. Now since an auto 240 is a hunk of junk were gonna put this sr20 into it. But I just need some help from someone who has done this. I already took the motor out of the s13 clip and took a looksee at the harness. Mucho difference. looks like I am gonna have to make a custom harness, but does anyone have a service manual for an SR20DET. because otherwise i have to trace Each and every wire
and that can get messy. Also any random tips and help would be nice. I do have a whole repair shop at my disposal so I am very capable of advanced repair and wiring. just want to know about any obsticals before i run into them.
and that can get messy. Also any random tips and help would be nice. I do have a whole repair shop at my disposal so I am very capable of advanced repair and wiring. just want to know about any obsticals before i run into them.
yeah, I have been hunting down a wiring diagram for the SR20DET, but its so confusing. I amso confused because everyone else is. Someone tried to tell me I got ripped because he says s13s don't have blacktop Sr20dets. I don't know anymore my head is gonna blow up.
i thought s13s have the black top.. and the later s14/s15s had the red top ? i might be wrong tho.. http://www.240sx.org/ check it
s13 have red top and black top. red top is older, black top is newer and both have t25 turbo. s14 has black top with an increase in hp and t28 turbo. s15 is even newer with 6spd transmission, 250 hp. all the blocks are good for about up to/close 700. http://www.frsport.com/sr20det-swap-...r20-p-665.html
Last edited by racerxl99; May 5, 2007 at 08:34 PM.
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Theres a HOW-TO on how to convert AUTO to mans. My friend just did it and its pretty cake. Now ur puttin in a new motor/tranny might not even be that much extra work.
As for the wiring..check these guys out. I think you can send them your KA and SR harness and they will make it alll into one;
http://www.wiringspecialties.com/
Theres a HOW-TO on how to convert AUTO to mans. My friend just did it and its pretty cake. Now ur puttin in a new motor/tranny might not even be that much extra work.
As for the wiring..check these guys out. I think you can send them your KA and SR harness and they will make it alll into one;
http://www.wiringspecialties.com/
www.zilvia.net
Theres a HOW-TO on how to convert AUTO to mans. My friend just did it and its pretty cake. Now ur puttin in a new motor/tranny might not even be that much extra work.
As for the wiring..check these guys out. I think you can send them your KA and SR harness and they will make it alll into one;
http://www.wiringspecialties.com/
Theres a HOW-TO on how to convert AUTO to mans. My friend just did it and its pretty cake. Now ur puttin in a new motor/tranny might not even be that much extra work.
As for the wiring..check these guys out. I think you can send them your KA and SR harness and they will make it alll into one;
http://www.wiringspecialties.com/
Thanks for the links by the way.
^ in that case;

*********
There are 2 plugs on the end of the KA harness and 3 plugs on the SR harness that run up behind the stock battery location. Although the plugs do initially snap together, the wires do not line up and you have to cut the plugs off and connect the wires using the table below. Cut the 2 main KA plugs off the KA harness and splice them onto the SR harness. **************
SR Harness Wire Color Use KA Harness Plug Wire Color
Black / Pink stripe Fuel Pump Relay Black / Pink stripe
Green / Orange stripe Transmission Neutral Sensor Green / Orange stripe
Red / Black stripe ECU Relay Red / Black stripe
*NOTE: Red fades -
do not confuse this wire
with Fuel Pump wire
Green / Yellow stripe AC Relay Green / Yellow stripe
RED ECU Backup Power Red
Black / Red stripe (THICK wire) Main Ignition Power Black / Red stripe (THICK wire)
Blue / Red stripe (THICK wire)
Brown (to O2 sensor) O2 Sensor Power
*NOTE: Connect these 2 THICK wires and 1 THIN Brown wire to 1 THICK wire on KA plug side
*NOTE: There may be a THIN Blue / Red wire - this is not used
Black / White stripe ECU Power Black / White stripe
Blue / Green stripe AC Relay Blue / Green stripe
Black / Yellow stripe Idle Air Control Valve Power Black / Yellow stripe
The MAFS and power steering sensor wires need to make it over to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, use the MAFS and PS wires from the KA harness to extend these wires. The AC compressor wire from the KA engine bay harness should be used NOT the SR harness AC wire (even though it fits). The starter and alternator plugs to the fuse box are all the same and plug right in. There are several unused and leftover harness plugs, anything not mentioned here does not need to be connected.

ECU & Dash wiring
The colors on the wires that run from the ECU up into the dash matched up perfectly on both the SR ECU harness and the KA dash harness:
Wire Color Use
Yellow / Red stripe Tachometer signal
Yellow / Green stripe Speedometer signal
Orange Ignition start
Black (may be more than one ground) Ground
Blue / Green stripe AC signal
Blue / Black stripe Water temp signal
The rest of the wires are for the CONSULT diagnostic device. It is not necessary to connect any other wires than those listed above to get the SR to run properly.
Connect the remaining wires if you plan to use the onboard diagnostic CONSULT connector.
The Apexi turbo timer is connected to the O2 sensor wire at the ECU to provide auto countdown functions. The Apexi AVC-R is also attached to the ECU harness for tachometer signal, speed signal, and throttle position. Apexi products come with a very good ECU pinout diagram that is extremely useful.
Remove the brackets from the SR ECU to make it easier to mount.

*********
There are 2 plugs on the end of the KA harness and 3 plugs on the SR harness that run up behind the stock battery location. Although the plugs do initially snap together, the wires do not line up and you have to cut the plugs off and connect the wires using the table below. Cut the 2 main KA plugs off the KA harness and splice them onto the SR harness. **************
SR Harness Wire Color Use KA Harness Plug Wire Color
Black / Pink stripe Fuel Pump Relay Black / Pink stripe
Green / Orange stripe Transmission Neutral Sensor Green / Orange stripe
Red / Black stripe ECU Relay Red / Black stripe
*NOTE: Red fades -
do not confuse this wire
with Fuel Pump wire
Green / Yellow stripe AC Relay Green / Yellow stripe
RED ECU Backup Power Red
Black / Red stripe (THICK wire) Main Ignition Power Black / Red stripe (THICK wire)
Blue / Red stripe (THICK wire)
Brown (to O2 sensor) O2 Sensor Power
*NOTE: Connect these 2 THICK wires and 1 THIN Brown wire to 1 THICK wire on KA plug side
*NOTE: There may be a THIN Blue / Red wire - this is not used
Black / White stripe ECU Power Black / White stripe
Blue / Green stripe AC Relay Blue / Green stripe
Black / Yellow stripe Idle Air Control Valve Power Black / Yellow stripe
The MAFS and power steering sensor wires need to make it over to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, use the MAFS and PS wires from the KA harness to extend these wires. The AC compressor wire from the KA engine bay harness should be used NOT the SR harness AC wire (even though it fits). The starter and alternator plugs to the fuse box are all the same and plug right in. There are several unused and leftover harness plugs, anything not mentioned here does not need to be connected.

ECU & Dash wiring
The colors on the wires that run from the ECU up into the dash matched up perfectly on both the SR ECU harness and the KA dash harness:
Wire Color Use
Yellow / Red stripe Tachometer signal
Yellow / Green stripe Speedometer signal
Orange Ignition start
Black (may be more than one ground) Ground
Blue / Green stripe AC signal
Blue / Black stripe Water temp signal
The rest of the wires are for the CONSULT diagnostic device. It is not necessary to connect any other wires than those listed above to get the SR to run properly.
Connect the remaining wires if you plan to use the onboard diagnostic CONSULT connector.
The Apexi turbo timer is connected to the O2 sensor wire at the ECU to provide auto countdown functions. The Apexi AVC-R is also attached to the ECU harness for tachometer signal, speed signal, and throttle position. Apexi products come with a very good ECU pinout diagram that is extremely useful.
Remove the brackets from the SR ECU to make it easier to mount.
Another writeup-
The first modification required is replacing the SR dash connector with the stock KA dash connector. The SR dash connector (white, as shown in Figure 1) will not mate with the KA dash harness, so it needs to be replaced with the KA dash connector. Cut both the SR & KA dash connectors, and wire the KA one to the SR harness using the table & wiring color guide below.

SR Wire Color KA Wire Color Function
Black (may be more than 1) Black (may be more than 1) Ground
Blue / Green / Green Stripe AC Signal
Blue / Black Stripe Blue / Black Stripe Water Temperature Signal
Orange Orange Ignition Start
Yellow / Red Stripe Yellow / Red Stripe Tachometer Signal
Yellow / Green Stripe Yellow / Green Stripe Speedometer Signal
The rest of the dash wires are not required, unless you plan to use the consult port. Wrap the unused wires individually in electrical tape or heat shrink tubing to prevent them from shorting out.
The next step is to extend the O2 connector. The connector has three wires:
Brown with yellow stripe, white, and brown, as shown in the image below (Fig. 2 & 3)


Figure 3
Get 3 pieces of wire about 2 ft. in length and extend the connector, matching the wire colors up. Don't forget to use heat-shrink tubing if you have it. Wrap the newly extended wire in electrical tape.
The other wires that needs to be extended are the MAF wires. Locate that plug according to the picture below (Figure 4). The two plugs next to the MAF plug are unused and not needed to get your SR running.

Figure 4
**One of our customer was gracious enough to let us know that this plug is the power steering switch. If wired up to the power steering switch, it will enable the ECU to bump up the idle slightly at full lock. This plug is optional and is not required to get your car running.
These MAF wires need to extend across the engine bay to the driver side fender. Extend them as long as they need to be.
FOR SOHC MAF USERS, THE PINOUT IS AS FOLLOWS:
SOHC MAF PIN SR WIRE COLOR FUNCTION
A Black / White +12V (Power)
B Black MAF Ground
C White MAF Signal
FOR Z32 MAF USERS, THE PINOUT IS:
(ECU retune is required)
Z32 MAF PIN SR WIRE COLOR FUNCTION
A - Not connected
B White MAF signal
C Black MAF Ground
D - Ground (connect to C)
E Black / White +12V Ignition
F - Not Connected
The last step is to cut the end of the harness with the three plugs and mate it to the chassis, as shown in Figure 5. The plugs have different pinouts, so you will either need to use the plugs on the KA harness, or wire them up directly if you don't have the KA harness. Only two of those plugs are used, while the third is unrequired.

The wire colors match up according to the following table:
SR Wire Color KA Wire Color Function
Black / Pink stripe Black / Pink stripe Fuel pump relay
Green / Orange stripe Green / Orange stripe Transmission neutral switch
Red / Black stripe Red / Black stripe ECU relay
Green / Yellow stripe Green / Yellow stripe* AC relay
Black / White stripe Black / White stripe ECU power
Blue / Green stripe Blue / Green stripe AC relay
Black / Yellow stripe Black / Yellow stripe Idle air control solenoid power
Brown Any +12V Switched** O2 sensor power
Red Red ECU backup power
Black / Red Black / Red stripe Main ignition power
Blue / Red

Finally, the two plugs by the ignitor connectors are also unused and can be tucked away or wrapped in electrical tape.

If done correctly, your engine will start when cranked! Good luck!
The first modification required is replacing the SR dash connector with the stock KA dash connector. The SR dash connector (white, as shown in Figure 1) will not mate with the KA dash harness, so it needs to be replaced with the KA dash connector. Cut both the SR & KA dash connectors, and wire the KA one to the SR harness using the table & wiring color guide below.

SR Wire Color KA Wire Color Function
Black (may be more than 1) Black (may be more than 1) Ground
Blue / Green / Green Stripe AC Signal
Blue / Black Stripe Blue / Black Stripe Water Temperature Signal
Orange Orange Ignition Start
Yellow / Red Stripe Yellow / Red Stripe Tachometer Signal
Yellow / Green Stripe Yellow / Green Stripe Speedometer Signal
The rest of the dash wires are not required, unless you plan to use the consult port. Wrap the unused wires individually in electrical tape or heat shrink tubing to prevent them from shorting out.
The next step is to extend the O2 connector. The connector has three wires:
Brown with yellow stripe, white, and brown, as shown in the image below (Fig. 2 & 3)


Figure 3
Get 3 pieces of wire about 2 ft. in length and extend the connector, matching the wire colors up. Don't forget to use heat-shrink tubing if you have it. Wrap the newly extended wire in electrical tape.
The other wires that needs to be extended are the MAF wires. Locate that plug according to the picture below (Figure 4). The two plugs next to the MAF plug are unused and not needed to get your SR running.

Figure 4
**One of our customer was gracious enough to let us know that this plug is the power steering switch. If wired up to the power steering switch, it will enable the ECU to bump up the idle slightly at full lock. This plug is optional and is not required to get your car running.
These MAF wires need to extend across the engine bay to the driver side fender. Extend them as long as they need to be.
FOR SOHC MAF USERS, THE PINOUT IS AS FOLLOWS:
SOHC MAF PIN SR WIRE COLOR FUNCTION
A Black / White +12V (Power)
B Black MAF Ground
C White MAF Signal
FOR Z32 MAF USERS, THE PINOUT IS:
(ECU retune is required)
Z32 MAF PIN SR WIRE COLOR FUNCTION
A - Not connected
B White MAF signal
C Black MAF Ground
D - Ground (connect to C)
E Black / White +12V Ignition
F - Not Connected
The last step is to cut the end of the harness with the three plugs and mate it to the chassis, as shown in Figure 5. The plugs have different pinouts, so you will either need to use the plugs on the KA harness, or wire them up directly if you don't have the KA harness. Only two of those plugs are used, while the third is unrequired.

The wire colors match up according to the following table:
SR Wire Color KA Wire Color Function
Black / Pink stripe Black / Pink stripe Fuel pump relay
Green / Orange stripe Green / Orange stripe Transmission neutral switch
Red / Black stripe Red / Black stripe ECU relay
Green / Yellow stripe Green / Yellow stripe* AC relay
Black / White stripe Black / White stripe ECU power
Blue / Green stripe Blue / Green stripe AC relay
Black / Yellow stripe Black / Yellow stripe Idle air control solenoid power
Brown Any +12V Switched** O2 sensor power
Red Red ECU backup power
Black / Red Black / Red stripe Main ignition power
Blue / Red

Finally, the two plugs by the ignitor connectors are also unused and can be tucked away or wrapped in electrical tape.

If done correctly, your engine will start when cranked! Good luck!
Last edited by onesicklambo; May 7, 2007 at 09:12 AM.




